Punisher Bass
He who drives a Buick
That sucks man. At this point, I'd scrap the whole engine and start fresh, probably with a new crate engine. Maybe Mr Murphy will stop fucking with you.
Fuck man, I'm sorry. Try to stay motivated and rebuild the beast, as hard as that is.
That sucks man. At this point, I'd scrap the whole engine and start fresh, probably with a new crate engine. Maybe Mr Murphy will stop fucking with you.
sounds like a plan! aslong as theres nothing really damaged with the piece its fine. IE crank cam etc etc. but the lifters might have water in them so id wanna replace those if anything. and as far as the bearings go. whats afew bucks in brand new bearings, seals, gaskets when itll give you security that there all new.
Changing the bearings might do more harm than good honestly since they're all worn in together now. My only concern would be that tolerances on a new block might be slightly different... but I'll have to do some research on it.
No way man. It didnt run long enough to damage anything (I'll be sure to examine it as it comes apart), oil pressure was still fine when I shut it off and i'll take a good look at the cam and lifters to see if it damaged them, but assuming everything survived without any damage (Which is a reasonable assumpiton seeing as how I caught it before anything broke) I can move everything except the rings and gaskets into another block and rebuild it.
I would trash it if they were cheap, crappy parts, but the rotating assembly is nice enough and it's also balanced so I'm definitely reusing that. And if the cam is fine, then everything in the block can be reused, even the bearings if they look okay. I may decide not to reuse those, but they certainly dont have much wear on them and they're already wearing into the crank and rods, so I think they'd be even better than new ones, to be honest.
This time if it is the block taht's the problem, I'm going to end up removing the entire drivetrain (including the rear end) and replacing it all with my T56 and 9-bolt and have all that ready by the time the engine is ready to go back in.
I said it as if I were in your place. If I had been bitten in the ass over this build as many times as you have, I'd say fuck it and hedge my bets with a new crate engine. I'd be expecting the "anything that can go wrong, will go wrong" rule to come into play at anytime. Maybe look at it as god's way of telling me (several times) that I'm not meant to build this engine and have it work.
I admire you for saying "bring it on" in the face of Mr Murphy.
you could probably resure everything. minus the pistons if you get this
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=NAL-10105123&autoview=sku
which wouldnt be a bad idea. if everything else (crank, connecting rods) are good then why change them ? and if you want roller lifters get the GM set from summit and drill some holes in the lifter valley.
or a 355 short block
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MLL-BP3552&autoview=sku
or a 383 shirt block
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MLL-BP3831&autoview=sku
1. I am going to go with a 1 pc RMS (roller) block. That means the crank I ahve wont work. Therefore I have no reason to make it a .060 overbore to fit the balacne on teh crank. I can probably sell the whole rotating assembly to help pay for a new one.
2. 383's are such a pain in teh ass, fuck that.
Im not goig to buy a preassembled shortblock. They cost way too much money and use who knows what parts in them. Im a control freak and I want to decide myself what I want and dont want to use. I want nice pistons, nice rods, and a nice crank. Who knows what they use in those? I certainly dont.
Crate engines are for people who dont know enough about components to pick what they want or need or how to pick what's right for them and the best for the money for their purpose.
Looks like your head gasket went out, milky white substance. Sorry to hear that man, if you are worried about a crack in the block, have it boiled and magnafluxed, it will find the most minute crack in the block if there is. But how did the rockers rust so quickly? Were they hitting on the valve covers?
You can definately get a decent deal on SBC's though, I'm sure there is a lot of complete 350s in your area for a decent price. Hell, I just got a complete SBF 302 w/ transmission for only $250! Car was DRIVEN to the scrapyard, they were going to pull it and junk it! There's always great deals out there!
i wouldnt go over .040 but i dont think ill even bore out my engine. im not anywhere near that stage yet. but your right. its probably a crack or something like that and when the piston was going down it created suction and sucked some water into the cylinder.
i though the LT1 had a 4 bolt main WTF