Ownership Verified: We can rebuild it... we have the technology (7 - take two)

Doesn't exist as far as I can tell :)

Get the white one and rattle can it :D

It would be unique, for sure. And I admire your work and drive, keep it up.
 
i would suggest black/orange two-tone.
 
Get the white one and rattle can it :D

It would be unique, for sure. And I admire your work and drive, keep it up.

that'll hold for 500km...
it would be cool though!
 
Paint it (i like the idea of black / orange two-tone) and cover it in grippy heat shrinking see-through plastic :)
 
Meh, I think you're missing the point, guys :) There's nothing shiny on this car now, and the interior in particular is almost solid black. I thought that this very contrasting white would be a nice detail. Shiny alu would do the job too, but I just don't like metal knobs that much.

I would like a light orange one, but rattle can... I don't think so :p Shrink plastic wont do the job either, it needs a matte finish.

The only option as far as I can see is to find a bulk of orange coloured nylon and turn it on a lathe :) Maybe not right now though. The white Quaife knob is only ?15, I'll just get it and see if I like it. If not - get something else.
 
Dosen't matter. It brings class to every type of car.
 
light orange leather with black stitching, full of win :D
 
And finally, the button fasteners arrived! Can fix the doors and the boot cover now. The hood still scares me a bit, I expect it to be a tedious iterative process to line fasteners up so that it sits nice and tight.



And concerning the speedo project, I have received some ebay mail as well.



This is a long term project though, by no means it's holding the car progress up. I don't even know if I'll be bothered to finish the speedo this summer.
 
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A bit of a setback today :(

Attached the eezibleed, first without any additional fluid to pressure test the system. Went through all the joints in the system, and sure enough one is dripping. It's the joint of the pass through the alu skin at the left front wheel. I tried to tighten it, but it was becoming easier to turn the further I go. Then I remembered I had problems flaring the end of the copper tube there. I'm afraid the flare is to blame there. So I opened the bleeding screws and left the front end to drain. Gonna give it a day and then remove the piece of tube that I think causes the problem. I'm just hoping I can do that without removing any of the water hoses or fuel lines :(
 
Gotta post some updates to keep a check on myself :) I've been slacking off whole week, so I've spent half a day in the garage today.

First point of business were the brakes. The leaking brake line had to come out. On the following picture I encircled the part that was leaking, and the arrow points at where this line goes. This car may be simple, but it is also small, and some things can be surprisingly hard to access.


(must've covered the flash with a finger :/ )

And there's the 3-way joint the line goes to, behind the fuel filter (arrow on prev. pic).



Undoing this whole shit was pretty laborious. And even though I left caliper valves open, there was brake fluid in the system. Ooooh boy, was there brake fluid... My hands are all yellow, and it doesn't wash off easily.

Anyway, ripped the copper line off, and sure enough, the problem was the flange. I made that flange, and clearly I did a shit job. It was so weak, I actually cut it right off with the nut when tightening the joint. I will make someone else do the flanges on the replacement line this time.



The brake line went along the bottom tubes of the chassis, this is the way it was originally, and this is the way I re-built it. But after reading the build manual, it seems the official way is run it along the top, under those crossed braces. As well, inserting a copper line bent in a particular way back from underneath would probably be impossible, so I mocked up a shape for the replacement line from the old one to fit along the top.



This was quite an iterative process :) Probably took me 2 hours to get a perfectly fitting shape, and make sure I can get it in and out without removing anything of the cooling system. So the plan is to get some copper tubing, replicate the shape, and have someone do the flanges next week.

Next order of business, I was planning to install the popper-fasteners along the rear of the car, the ones that keep boot cover closed and where the hood attaches to. To do that, I had to install the hood sticks first. This is because the hood for the car is soft, and doesn't have the hoops sewed in. Instead, the hoops are attached to the car, and are lifted up when needed, so the hood can be stretched over them. And when the hoops aren't needed, they lay flat on top of the rear compartment. Like this:



Obviously, this has an effect on where the fasteners for the boot cover will be, as the thing will have to be rather tight, so that water runs off to the back instead of getting into the boot. Again, the problem was... it didn't fit. Well, it did, but when attached through the existing holes, the sticks wouldn't line up with the boot in resting position. British cars, precision engineering :lol: It's one of those things that didn't come pre-drilled from the factory, and had to be measured and adjusted by the customer (at least according to my 80's build manual).



I had to make another hole for the bolt, after taking that picture I've sawn off the extra bit. I have no idea why it didn't fit, maybe it was never fitting well before either, I just didn't pay any attention. And the boot cover wasn't even that tight before. In any case, it fits perfectly now :)



That's how it looks when the hoops are up. The rear hoop is attached by 2 straps permanently to the chassis with 2 self-tappers, and the straps between two hoop are adjustable. The idea is that when you put the hood up, you tighten the straps, it brings the hoops closer, making them higher, and that tightens the roof.


(cockwheels!)

Hoops down, boot covered. Now I can measure up and drill holes for those popper-bases.
 
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you soaked the car with brakecleaner afterwards? if not you might find your paint peeling off in a few weeks. that stuff is nasty!
 
you soaked the car with brakecleaner afterwards? if not you might find your paint peeling off in a few weeks. that stuff is nasty!

Not that brake cleaner is exactely nice to paint, either...
 
Nothing went on the paint, but quite a bit on the chassis tubes inside, which are powdercoated. Some also on rubber hoses. I wiped everything off as well as I could, of course.
 
a friend has a monobike with chrome wheels, and once he (or someone else) must've picked them up with brakefluid on his hands. 4 fingers have burned in there, you could even take fingerprints from it!
 
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