Random Thoughts... [Automotive Edition]

I start my auto mechanics course this week and will probably pick one up once I am less... stupid.

YEAH boost leak sounds right. It seems to trigger limp mode if I try to accelerate enough to make it need the turbo.
Had that happen on the Nordschleife with my old A4. Was just the hose from the intercooler. 100€ replaced.
 
Did some work on the Xterra this weekend. I pulled and tested the evap purge valve and it seems to function normally, it's likely my CEL for that was just a plug that wasn't seated properly. While I was in there I re-routed the new breather hose so it isn't kinked. No longer will the evaporative emissions vent suck up dust from the back wheel, that hose has been extended all the way to behind the driver's tail light and a filter is capping it. Hopefully this is the last time dust gunks up that system.

I finally got around to installing the diff breather extension, I hadn't really bothered before because I live in a desert. That now vents behind the passenger tail light, but I still need to get a small filter for it. The inside of the old breather was completely caked with crud, I doubt it was functioning at all - which is probably why I'm seeing seepage around the hubs. It's likely that both sides of the rear end will need new axle seals. (It probably also explains why the parking brake is useless right now, I bet the shoes are covered in axle grease that was pushed out past the seals.) I don't have a press, so getting that done is going to be a bit of a PITA, I will probably pull the half-shafts and clean/replace the parking brake shoes myself, but I will need a shop with a press to put the new seals and bearings on.

I still need to put some anti-foulers on the O2 sensors, apparently Nissans are super picky about the O2 sensors and which brand catalytic converters go in. I know the cats are good, but I keep getting codes thrown for low efficiency. The problem is that I need to hit up my friend with a mill so we can actually make the spark plug antifoulers fit correctly. It seems my current catalytic converter code has cleared itself for the time being, so I might be able to get emissions done this month and get registered, kicking that particular can down the road a bit.

And one last bit of good(ish) news, the suspicious "clunk" in the front end while on our last off road trip was likely a loose tie rod end and not the steering rack as I feared.

So the list of repairs needed now looks like this:

  • Catalytic converter seems to have sorted itself out, will use O2 sensor spacers to reduce false codes
  • Evap canister purge valve Sorted
  • Axle seals
  • Steering rack New tie rod end, probably within 6 months
  • Clutch pedal assembly
  • Power steering pump (seems to have stopped making noise, might have just been a dirty or slipping belt)
With this list, the cost has dropped significantly so the X will live on, which makes me happy, because there are very few vehicles out there that would make suitable replacements. The only one I was even a little excited about is the GX460, but all the aftermarket stuff for that vehicle is 50% more expensive than the same gear for a 4Runner and you only get one or two choices. I'm sorry, but rock sliders should not be nearly $1,000.
 
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It's likely that both sides of the rear end will need new axle seals.
If your diff is same as mine, you need the entire half axle to fix that :(

(It probably also explains why the parking brake is useless right now, I bet the shoes are covered in axle grease that was pushed out past the seals.)
Very much so, my e-brake was almost completely useless with just one side leaking
 
If your diff is same as mine, you need the entire half axle to fix that :(

The half shaft can be replaced, which reduced labor costs. If you cut the bearing race, you can remove it and press a new seal and bearing onto the existing half shaft.
 
The half shaft can be replaced, which reduced labor costs. If you cut the bearing race, you can remove it and press a new seal and bearing onto the existing half shaft.
:dunno: I remember my guy was like yeah just get a new half shaft.
 
It might be a wash on price if you are having a shop do it, it's faster to do a remove and replace than it is to rebuild it. It's possible he was looking out for you and giving you a lot of brand new parts for the exact same cost as rebuilding the old busted stuff. There was also a TSB out on the rear half shafts, but I don't recall what years or whether it was for the M226 or the C200 rear ends, there was an updated half-shaft put out with a new part number.
 
My neighbor ran the CEL code and it was in fact boost leak, asked "did it do this before the last oil change" and you know what? I think that timing DOES make sense and it confirmed my gut feeling the nearby dealer is unfit to do even basic service. I took it too the far away one for the warrenty repair.

Mom did not like this choice so i had to get a loaner car, which ended up being a 2018 jeep renegade because the wrangler was apparently lifted with fancy options and 100$ a day.
 
My neighbor ran the CEL code and it was in fact boost leak, asked "did it do this before the last oil change" and you know what? I think that timing DOES make sense and it confirmed my gut feeling the nearby dealer is unfit to do even basic service. I took it too the far away one for the warrenty repair.

Mom did not like this choice so i had to get a loaner car, which ended up being a 2018 jeep renegade because the wrangler was apparently lifted with fancy options and 100$ a day.

RIP my wallet apparently it wasn't a loose connection but a punctured turbo intercooler which is far more expensive and apparently not covered by warrenty. ?
 
How the hell did that happen???

It’s not an uncommon problem for front mount air to air intercoolers. Usually cause by road debris or projectiles, same kind of thing that breaks windshields.
 
It’s not an uncommon problem for front mount air to air intercoolers. Usually cause by road debris or projectiles, same kind of thing that breaks windshields.
I've never heard of that happening and used to hang out with a bunch of ricers that all ran FMICs
 
I've never heard of that happening and used to hang out with a bunch of ricers that all ran FMICs

It's a matter of luck and FMIC construction quality/strength. Guess what quality the Fiat (and to be fair, no few other stock OEM) FMIC is.
 
It’s not an uncommon problem for front mount air to air intercoolers. Usually cause by road debris or projectiles, same kind of thing that breaks windshields.
YUP. The front bumper is cheesy plastic and because the car is so small everything is packed in tight so it doesn't take much to damage it

Like the beetle has probablya good 6" between the grill and the radiator but the fiat it is RIGHT THERE so it's not hard for it to get damaged i guess.

I guess a positive way of looking at it though, is that it wasn't like, an actual mechanical fault because god knows if I am having engine problems at 11k miles that would be a major issue.

In other positive news, I had my bug jacked up today and it is apparently in better condition then I assumed. So at least the day is ending on that.
 
YUP. The front bumper is cheesy plastic and because the car is so small everything is packed in tight so it doesn't take much to damage it

Like the beetle has probablya good 6" between the grill and the radiator but the fiat it is RIGHT THERE so it's not hard for it to get damaged i guess.

I guess a positive way of looking at it though, is that it wasn't like, an actual mechanical fault because god knows if I am having engine problems at 11k miles that would be a major issue.

In other positive news, I had my bug jacked up today and it is apparently in better condition then I assumed. So at least the day is ending on that.


If I were you, I would strongly consider taking the opportunity to replace the stock FMIC with a stronger, better FMIC. They do exist for your car and may be cheaper than another weak stock one.
 
I already gave the dealer the ok to repair it because idk where else to take it right now honestly.

But today I also started my mechanic course, and plan to learn how to do that repair my own damn self by the end of it do hopefully going forward I won't have as much of a problem. If this happens again you damn well better believe I'm doing it myself.
 
I suggest saving the old part to see if it can be repaired.
 
Ah, so it's less of a FCA build quality problem and more of a "Shit American Infrastructure" problem.

American turbodiesel trucks often have gigantic exposed intercoolers from the factory and they will rarely have FMIC penetrations/leaks short of crashing into something. Sounds more like a "maker does not understand market" problem to me. Please note that I did say there are other car companies that screw up FMIC implementation as well, so this isn't a Fiat-specific problem.

Dodge Ram 2500 Turbodiesel's stock intercooler clearly visible at 3:40, located below the radiator/condenser stack.
 
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