What's your car?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Firecat said:
6 (the last with DSC off)
6 aye...thats pretty good. Some people complain about it (especially with M5) but I like all the choice you have over the mechanics/computer.
 
It's nice to have the option. I keep it on 4, unless I'm about to race someone.
 
Beni said:
My little Fiat X1/9 work in progress:

http://img358.imageshack.**/img358/6643/0014xf.jpg

http://img358.imageshack.**/img358/7067/x0026sd.jpg

Wow, good pictures. Where did you take them?
 
First pic is in the Italian alps, Val di Zoldo, the second is the famous "Mainzer Landstra?e" in Frankfurt, opposite to the Volksbank skyscraper (aka "Kronen Hochhaus").

Not too long till it's on the road again :).
 
1963 red 1800S Volvo "the saint".(built in England btw)

engine was replaced to b20 unit with double SU carbs some years ago

currently its forsale for 20.000? (car is in Finland)

im planing to export Opel speedster turbo.
 
DSCN1312.jpg


DSCN1315.jpg


DSCN1316.jpg


At Thunderhill Raceway in Willows, California USA:
track2.jpg

(note: i am not in the lead. I am about to get lapped...)

1997 Nissan 240SX SE (same chassis as European 200sx and Japanese Silvia)

Mod lists are a bit cliche'd and corny, but i'll do it once for the hell of it, been a while:

Exterior:
Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) Silvia S14 front bumper
stock side skirts
European rear bumper and 200sx Z-edition rear valence
JDM Silvia S14 K's spoiler

Wheels:
front- 5Zigen FN01R-C 17x9 +15
rear- Tanabe Precedeo 17 x 9 +10
Falken Azenis RT-615 225/45/17 all around

Suspension:
Apexi' N1 Type V coilovers (adjustable camber plates, pillowball mounts)
SPL Parts Tension Control Rods
Tein Tie Rod
Kazama Tein Tie Rod Ends
Battle Version Rear Upper Control Arm
Kazama Traction Rod
Kazama Toe Rod
aluminum subframe spacers
Tanabe Front Strut Tower Bar

Engine:
stock 1991 Nissan 240sx camshafts (now 240/248 v. 238/238 stock)
ghetto K&N cone air filter
Urethane motormounts

Drivetrain:
C's Short shifter
Fidanza lightweight aluminum flywheel
RPS Sport Street Clutch
Nismo transmission mount

Interior:
Buddy Club Racing Spec seat (Wide version for American ass)
Nagisa Auto Superlow seat rail
Momo Millenium Sport steering wheel
HKB steering wheel hub
NRG quick release

Misc:
S13 240sx HICAS steering wheel rack (faster steering ratio)

Summary:
height adjustable, camber adjustable, caster adjustable, toe adjustable, dampening adjustable, heim joints/pillow ball mounts on nearly every suspension component...a racing shell with the main cushion removed, faster steering rack, maximum performance summer tires, and a removable steering wheel.

Basically, it hurts to drive sometimes on shitty roads but the responsiveness and connection to the road is ungodly. Gotta pay to play I guess.
 
OptionZero

That may be the best looking and cleanest JDM car I've ever seen. You just made the good guy list in my book. Welcome.
 
Raitzi said:
1963 red 1800S Volvo "the saint".(built in England btw)

engine was replaced to b20 unit with double SU carbs some years ago

currently its forsale for 20.000€ (car is in Finland)

im planing to export Opel speedster turbo.

Nice Volvo, too bad I can't afford it...

Where would you be exporting the Opel to? Or if you mean importing one to Finland, there is no need the "official" importer will be only too happy to sell you one. Save you all the hassle of the paper works and taxes etc.
 
Nice nissan; very clean. You mind if I ask how much your motor mounts were? I'm looking at getting some for my 'stang, but they seem a little overpriced here, just wondering what you pay for JDM mounts. I'm looking at having my engine swapped for a stroker with around 450 brake, so gotta get urethane mounts; solid ones are my other option, but I like having teeth!
 
Thanks for the love, all.

I forgot an important part of the mod list, BRAKES! Haha...
Swapped to Infiniti Q45 2 piston (versus stock single piston) calipers in front and I use Porterfield R4-S pads (dual duty street/track compound)...and the usual higher tolerance brake fluid, brembo blank rotors (who needs drilled and slotted), stainless steel lines.


The wheels I got mostly because they were cheap and the proper size...big enough to fit some tire on there and fill the wheel wells a bit. Both front and rear pairs are cast, and I really wish I could afford quality forged wheels, but thats a REALLY expensive step. I do have new wheels coming in though:

XD9.jpg


17x9.5 +17
Not the optimal size for performance by any means, but they are a higher quality cast wheel and I will only use them on the street anyways. Plus, i'll put some wider, fatter wheels in the rears just for the look; I'll keep the same size rubber on all 4 corners when i'm going to the track.


Motor mount question:
Mine were $115 shipped within California. They are urethane with a metal heat shield on the exhaust side. A poster on a Nissan forum made them; he is a small start up parts retailer, and I have no idea how pricing on domestic engine parts runs. Sorry I can help much in your situation.

I do know that the name brand stuff such as (Kazama, Nismo or Cusco) for my car (note...small 4 cylinder) runs from $150 to $200, possibly even more; these brands are imported from Japan whereas mine are locally produced within California.

Solid metal ones will transfer more vibration to the chassis and you'll probably feel the difference. Even mine changed the tone of the engine and vibrations during idel.


JDM...it's not just JDM, it's GDM! german market rear aero! I think I really offend some Nissan owners with that; putting non-japanese parts on it =P

all in all this is a great site supporting an awesome show and it's always entertaining to learn about cars that I'll likely never see here stateside.

My goal in life is to have a Lotus Exige to drive to a cushy law firm job.
 
so aside from the minor engine mods, it's the stock 2.4? There are plenty of options on that front...You could do an sr20 det swap, ca18 swap, turbo existing, even an rb25det or rb26dett motor. My suggestion though, is to go a little unorthodox. sr20vet vvl NEO. It's basically an Sr20 with Nissan's version of the vtec system. i think jtuner wrote a good article on the non turbo version. google sr20vet.

where are you located? I think I might have seen your car around here.
 
yeah, I know all about the infinity of engine options for the S-chassis, but it was no coincidence my suspension is built but my engine is the near stock 2.4

1. Emissions and legality. This is California and this is my daily driver.

2. Driveability. I'm fairly certain I can fix most suspension stuff, but wiring up and fixing an engine are skills I don't have yet.

3. Skill. I am not a drifter, i don't have any intention of drifting, and I want to learn to be a good "grip" (Track, road race, however you want to call it) driver, which means starting with less power and learning to take the line, transfer weight, contrl the car

4. Priorities. Drag racing and freeway battling mean little to me. Taking a 155hp car that's fun to drive and adding the skill to stomp on a higher HP car appeals to me. Plus, it's always smarter to build the chassis first and add the pwoer later...i see too many people throwing turbo ch argers and engine mods only to drive around on some crap $50 all season tires...then end up broken because their car was uselessly unprepared for power.

The SR20VE-T as far as I know only came on the FWD or AWD Nissan SUV (X-Trail?) in Japan. I haven't heard of anyone putting it in a RWD S-chassis yet, although with money i'm sure it could be done.

In the future, i'll probably just rebuild and turbo the KA. Can't beat cast-iron + good tuning.


I'm located in Davis, CA and commute to work everyday to Sacramento, so you'll see me on the 80 quite a bit.
 
Jacobfox said:
so aside from the minor engine mods, it's the stock 2.4? There are plenty of options on that front...You could do an sr20 det swap, ca18 swap, turbo existing, even an rb25det or rb26dett motor. My suggestion though, is to go a little unorthodox. sr20vet vvl NEO. It's basically an Sr20 with Nissan's version of the vtec system. i think jtuner wrote a good article on the non turbo version. google sr20vet.

where are you located? I think I might have seen your car around here.
sr20vet is insanely rare and only fwd so it would be a bitch of a swap. go ka-t like me:)

btw nice kouki and please for the love of god, get rid of the fno1rc's
 
Here's my stable:

104.jpg

At play at Lime Rock Park
10.jpg

cleaned up...

1986 Porsche 944 Turbo
2.5L intercooled turbo
Quarter mile: Untested; estimate high 13s or low 14s.
Mods: b&b headers, fabspeed exhaust w/o cat, chipped (2.0 bar), lindsey boost enhancer, weltmeister front & rear swaybars, weltmeister strut brace, koni yellow adjustable shocks, cryo-treated slotted rotors w/ Hawk HP+ pads, stock rebuilt 4-piston Brembos on all corners, steel brake lines, repair/restore anything that breaks. Limited slip. Cared for by PowerTech.

093.jpg

At play at Pocono Raceway
10.jpg

cleaned up...

2000 Pontiac Trans Am
5.7L V8
312 rwhp (~380 bhp), 331 ft-lb torque (Dyno'ed)
Quarter mile: 13.2 @ 104 mph
Mods: Yank ST3500 torque converter, SLP Loudmouth exhaust w/ dual-dual tips, Bilstein shocks, Eibach lowering progressive rate springs, rear control arms, control arm relocator, panhard bar, 21mm rear swaybar, 35mm hollow front swaybar, Fast Toys ram air kit, subframe connectors, 4 point rollbar, strut tower brace, C5 brake conversion (2-piston front, 13" rotor) w/ cryo-treated slotted rotors w/ Hawk HP+ pads, steel brake lines. Limited slip.

097.jpg

At play at Paragon Adventure Park
liberty_nj_1.jpg

cleaned up...

2002 Jeep Liberty Sport 4x4
3.7L V6
Quarter mile: 18.8 @ 73 mph
Mods: 2.5" lift, 31" mud tires, Rancho RSX shocks, transmission pan skid plate, transfer case skid plate, gas tank skid plate, rock rails, Borla dual exhaust, tow hooks, hidden hitch, cryo-treated slotted rotors w/ Hawk HPS pads. Transfer case with open diffs.

Wishlist/next cars in the next year or two:

A sports car (considering Corvette Z06, Cayman, Elise, S2000)
A sports/lux sedan, preferably AWD (considering A4 quattro, BMW 3xi, Subaru Legacy, G35X, 300C)
 
klutch said:
Picking her up on Friday; the tuning will commence on Saturday, and won't stop till the numbers reach 400 at the wheels.
[...]
Sure, as soon as I pick it up. Right now, the modifications are the usual headers, exhaust, intake and cam...pretty mild. Low kilometers, and well treated, seems to be a good deal.

Does that thing have the 5.0 motor or the 4.6? Anything but the supercharged Cobras is going to be lucky to ring up 250 at the wheels. I think you're gonna need some more help getting 400 at the wheels with those mods. I think you'd be lucky to hit 300 with them. You gotta stroke and/or blow to hit 400. I'm starting out with amost 100 horsepower more than you and depending on the motor 1 liter more displacement, and I'd be very lucky to hit 400 rwhp on pure motor with an extreme cam.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top