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Thread: Handy maintenance tips/reccomendations thread.

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    Twerp128's Avatar
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    Handy maintenance tips/reccomendations thread.

    Here is the place to post tips and shortcuts concerning general automotive maintenance. Here is also the place to recommend tools, fluids, products, etc. From your favorite wax, to brake pads, to penetrating lubricant. This is not the place to post your specific automotive question.

    I'll start, my dad just used up the last jug of magic degreaser he got from Jasper Engines back when he worked from them in the '90s. So if anyone has any suggestions for a degreaser that actually works good, I could use it.
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    I'll join with another question. In my trunk I found that the previous owner has left a C-Clamp. What the hell is that for? What could I possibly do with it???
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    Can't Start His Wank argatoga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by _HighVoltage_ View Post
    I'll join with another question. In my trunk I found that the previous owner has left a C-Clamp. What the hell is that for? What could I possibly do with it???
    Replace a U-Joint?
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    Can also use a C-clamp to change some types of ball joints and tie rod ends.
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    Also can be used to retreat the pistons back into their housings.
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    Hmm I wonder if it's going to help me change this:
    It's the upper engine mount a.k.a torque rod. All the guides say that you need a strong pressing tool to put the new mount in place. This C Clamp looks like it will be up to the job...with some slight modifications.
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    Keep a log book of maintenance and repairs, including dates and mileage.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twerp128 View Post
    Here is the place to post tips and shortcuts concerning general automotive maintenance. Here is also the place to recommend tools, fluids, products, etc. From your favorite wax, to brake pads, to penetrating lubricant. This is not the place to post your specific automotive question.

    I'll start, my dad just used up the last jug of magic degreaser he got from Jasper Engines back when he worked from them in the '90s. So if anyone has any suggestions for a degreaser that actually works good, I could use it.
    No kidding, I haven't found anything I'm really satisfied with.

    Not sure if this is too specific but what kind of oil should I use when I'm firing up an engine for the first time? Its a 302 bored to a 306 with about 100K that might have had the bottom end rebuilt. Its been sitting for about 3-5 years I'd reckon.

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    Always CHECK your engine oil, don't just change it because it has run 5000 miles.. thats what I do anyways. Its been 90,000 kilometers on my engine, its fine and good.

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    Wants Rick Astley's Babies Buba's Avatar
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    I can recommend an online log like www.spritmonitor.de as a little black book replacement... They got English as well... If you wanna go more high tech: "Car care" for iPhone + Co

    Concerning washing: I might have opted for an expensive brand, but if you just sprung all your money on a car, you only want the good stuff...

    A Meguiars wash and wax set (awesome washing mitt)
    AND: Cleaning Putty... This is seriously off the hook, buy it, worth every penny/cent... Takes away everything from your paint that isn't supposed to be there without interfering with the paint itself...

    I did a complete wash, putty clean (mostly the front) and wax Job last Saturday... Check the pics... (crappy iPhone quality only...)




    The wax really does make a huge difference, adds more depth to the paint, and makes the next 4 or 5 washes a LOT easier...
    Ok, I do wash it every week...
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    Always use the right tool for the right job. Not doing so is a good way to break parts and possibly get yourself hurt. If you don't have the right tool, chances are good that an auto parts store can loan you one.

    Get yourself a good pair of work gloves like Mechanix. You loose a little bit of feeling, but I'd take that over cuts, scrapes, burns, and just general chewed up fingers.

    WD-40 can fix damn near anything.

    Also keep a bottle of tylenol or aleve in your toolbox, it's come in very handy for me after having to tie myself into all sorts of strange shapes to get to a bolt or spark plug.
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    From my rock climbing experience, I've found that rubbing oil dry between your hands can give you a great grip on anything, particularly stubborn oil filters.
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    When working in a greasy situation, put about a teaspoon of dish soap on your hands, then rub together until dry. When you are finished, just wash your hands, and they are as good as new. (careful, hands might be slippery)

    How many times have you wanted to hold a part in your bench vise but were afraid the steel jaws of the vise would mar the part? Cut a couple of pieces of wood about the save size as the vise jaws and fasten magnetic strips to the wood with glue or heavy staples. Just stick the wood to the vice jaws when you have a more delicate part to hold.

    Sometimes you need to clamp a part in your vise that is an odd shape and the vice just can't get a good grip on it. Clamp a big piece of angle iron in your vise, drill appropriate holes. And then bolt the part to it. After a while the angle iron will be full of holes that can accommodate a variety of parts.

    Plastic bags are great for holding small parts, because you can see through them long after you've forgotten what you put inside. Use a marker to write on the bags to help remember where the parts came from. Aluminium foil and plastic cling wraps are great for masking off irregular shaped items when painting nearby them or for sealing parts like the carburettor or generator when steam cleaning an engine.

    Just open up a dictionary and look at the definition of cheap insurance, and you will see a pair of goggles. Your eyesight is priceless and good quality safety goggles cost about two bucks. The problem is the goggles are in your toolbox or under your workbench and you're too lazy or forgetful to get them every time you use your drill press of bench grinder. The solution is simple. Buy a half-dozen pairs today and keep one hanging on each tool or piece of equipment in your shop that could injure your eyes. That way you'll have to pick up the goggles before you can use the equipment and it will become second nature to put them on.

    Keep some short pieces of PVC pipe in your toolbox. Roughly the same diameter as your heater hoses and your upper and lower radiator hoses. When you are on the trail and you or someone else blows a hose, simply cut the hose in half where the hole is and insert the appropriate size of PVC pipe. Seal the connection with those extra hose clamps you brought with you, and you're ready to roll. Don't forget to check your coolant level.
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    Anyone got any tips for cutting steel braided line that doesn't involve buying cable cutters?

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    Quote Originally Posted by airmenair View Post
    Anyone got any tips for cutting steel braided line that doesn't involve buying cable cutters?
    Bolt cutters work well.

    Failing that, a Dremel or grinder with a cutoff wheel will make very short work of it.
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    airmenair's Avatar
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    Yea I did the dremel but got alot of fraying. I think I need to tape it off first and try it again that way.

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    Yeah, but you'll get a lot of fraying just about any way you do it. Taping it will help some, though.
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    If you are cutting off the exhaust of your car with an angle grinder that has a stone cutting disc on it, and you are lying under the car, use ear protection.

    It's been 2 days and my ears are still ringing..
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    You should be using hearing protection with any grinder anywhere periode.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JipJopJones View Post
    You should be using hearing protection with any grinder anywhere periode.


    ..?
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