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#1 |
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Joined: Aug 19th, 2005
Last Online: July 15th, 2009
Location: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 629
Car: 2007 Nissan Murano
Rep Power: 18
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So I plan on changing my car oil some time this week and purchased a floor jack and some jack stands, however this is one niggling obstacle in my way.
There is this flange (a lip, whatever you want to call it) that requires a jack stand adapter; if you don't have one and try to use a set a jack stands, the weight of the car will crush the lip and possibly my face. Unfortunately, after visiting a few Nissan/Infiniti forums, the best solutions were 1) use a hockey puck or 2) making one yourself because apparently none of those adapters ever went into production (not by Nissan or its suppliers, at least) Here are some pictures to let you see what I'm seeing (I apologize for the focus. I was just taking quick shots): ![]() By zeoniks ![]() By zeoniks ![]() By zeoniks I don't know if you can judge how thick the frame rail is, but I think I can put the jack stand on the inside of the lip, directly on the rail. As far as I know, I don't think the lip adds to the integrity of rail, but I also can't help but feel that the lip is there for a reason. Can anyone here give me some input? |
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#2 |
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Lexus? Oh shi-
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Can't you just buy a pair of those mini ramp thingies? Should give you enough clearance for an oil change.
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#3 |
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Joined: Aug 19th, 2005
Last Online: July 15th, 2009
Location: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 629
Car: 2007 Nissan Murano
Rep Power: 18
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I could buy those ramps, but you can't rotate tires with those things
Besides, I just spent about $150 for four stands and a jack, and those ramps are ridiculously expensive.
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#4 |
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Lexus? Oh shi-
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Oh, your car has no jack itself at all?
Those ramps don't seem too expensive, it's just hunks of metal.
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#5 | |
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Joined: Aug 19th, 2005
Last Online: July 15th, 2009
Location: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 629
Car: 2007 Nissan Murano
Rep Power: 18
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Quote:
As the for the ramps, I'm probably not going to buy them because I could easily just get a few pieces of stacked wood and drive on top of them. Sometime in the future, I'm probably going to change a tire or two, and a ramp won't work so I might as well find a way to get my stands to work right now and not worry about them later. |
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#6 |
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Lexus? Oh shi-
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Hmm, maybe someone has some technical info. I just thought those ramps seemed efficient for some reason.
But I wouldn't drive onto anything stacked...
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#7 |
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Joined: Aug 19th, 2005
Last Online: July 15th, 2009
Location: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 629
Car: 2007 Nissan Murano
Rep Power: 18
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There is also another issue with the ramps too. The car won't be level and there's a good chance the oil won't drain properly.
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#8 |
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Just stick a hunk of wood on the jack, make sure it's secure first. Or you can take your jack stands back and buy some fancy ones with rubber bumper thingies on top. Lots of cars have that lip like that, and the notches just identify the jacking point, so even soccer moms know where to jack the car when they get a flat.
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#9 |
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Ik ben niet alleen lekker met kaas!
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Is this one of those "let's make it stupidly hard to do so people will go to the garage and ask us to do it, and we can charge them through the butthole" things like the Renault headlamps?
because that's pretty fail of Nissan... they should include a hockeypuck in the spare tyre then
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#10 |
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Most every unibody car has that lip. You can jack it up on the lip without it bending, just be careful. If you must just use a 2x4 or some rags to protect it.
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#11 |
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Joined: Feb 1st, 2007
Last Online: 10:40 PM
Location: Dallas, Texas
Age: 32
Posts: 8,130
Car: 87 XJ6, 95 XJR, 90 WD21, 86 CB700SC, 98 PC800
Rep Power: 184
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Jack adapter: http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...ProductID=2061
Put the jackstands under the subframe(s) or suspension arms like you're supposed to on non-hardpoint-equipped unibody cars. If you can't do that for some reason (check your manual), there's these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95952
__________________
Enough is enough. ![]() We are not here to subsidize your clueless business plans or reward your failures. 1986 Honda Nighthawk 700S (project, light restoration in progress) 1987 Jaguar XJ6 Series III Vanden Plas (modified) 1990 Nissan (WD21) Pathfinder SE 4x4 (little red offroad commuter box) 1995 Jaguar (X300) XJR 1998 Honda Pacific Coast PC800 (two-wheeled pickup truck/utility bike) Last edited by Spectre; January 5th, 2009 at 7:00 PM. |
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#12 |
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Joined: Aug 19th, 2005
Last Online: July 15th, 2009
Location: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 629
Car: 2007 Nissan Murano
Rep Power: 18
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Thanks Spectre.
I appreciate the help, but I think I'm going to take it up another notch and mill out some adapters from some stock. I managed to make temporary adapters out of some wood and get my oil changed, but it's not going to support the weight of a 2-ton car. |
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#13 |
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Been using blocks of wood for 2 years now. On both the jacks and the jack stands.
Not the safest solution, but I make sure to have redundancy in my lift equipment, has been fine thus far. Most common cars nowaday has this frame frame "lip", blocks of wood work just fine, even when lifting the front of my neighbor's 05 hemi charger |
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#14 |
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Joined: Oct 4th, 2008
Last Online: January 6th, 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 32
Car: 1989 BMW 535i
Rep Power: 5
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As a tall, "off road" vehicle, I'd have thought you could do the oil without jacking it at all.
I had no trouble getting under a Holden Jackaroo (Isuzu Trooper) I once had, to change the oil and it only had average ground clearance for a 4WD. |
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#15 |
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He who drives a Buick
Joined: Feb 25th, 2007
Last Online: 10:47 PM
Location: St Louis, MO
Age: 25
Posts: 1,660
Car: 98 Buick Park Avenue Ultra
Rep Power: 62
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Still calling it your car eh? After all you've done to it I'm surprised your parents let you within 20 feet of it. So when you damage something this time around, who's fault is it going to be now?
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The Mighty Buick Of Destruction |
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#16 | |
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Joined: Sep 7th, 2008
Last Online: November 3rd, 2009
Location: Santa Monica, Commufornia
Age: 17
Posts: 223
Car: 1990 Ford F350, 2000 Chevy Camaro SS
Rep Power: 9
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Quote:
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#17 |
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Ibiza-Proll
Joined: Apr 2nd, 2006
Last Online: 3:32 PM
Location: #gear in IRC
Posts: 3,310
Car: Spanish Polo with LPG engine.
Rep Power: 185
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Wood is the way to go
![]() The lip sinks into the wood as you can see on the block ![]() (and yes, that is a drumbrake on my rear axle, and yes, I use some old underpants for cleaning stuff )
__________________
Life's journey is not to arrive at the doors of heaven in a perfectly intact body,
but rather to crash through the pearly gates sideways in a car with bald tires, an empty tank and your brakes on fire shouting HOLY SHIT WHAT A RIDE! RINGMEET 2009 - THE REPORT: LINK |
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#18 |
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Joined: Aug 19th, 2005
Last Online: July 15th, 2009
Location: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 629
Car: 2007 Nissan Murano
Rep Power: 18
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Yeah I tried. The Murano's clearance isn't as high as one would think. I need to get it off the ground another inch or two in order to get under it.
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#19 | |
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Joined: Aug 19th, 2005
Last Online: July 15th, 2009
Location: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 629
Car: 2007 Nissan Murano
Rep Power: 18
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Quote:
.I mean if you're just working on the wheel assembly I guess that wouldn't be too much a of a problem. If the wood splits, at least you won't be under the car. I am really paranoid; I stacked a couple of cinder blocks under the center-front jack point. |
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#20 |
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Joined: Feb 1st, 2007
Last Online: 10:40 PM
Location: Dallas, Texas
Age: 32
Posts: 8,130
Car: 87 XJ6, 95 XJR, 90 WD21, 86 CB700SC, 98 PC800
Rep Power: 184
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Ummmm.... Cinder blocks are a BAAAAAAAD idea.
__________________
Enough is enough. ![]() We are not here to subsidize your clueless business plans or reward your failures. 1986 Honda Nighthawk 700S (project, light restoration in progress) 1987 Jaguar XJ6 Series III Vanden Plas (modified) 1990 Nissan (WD21) Pathfinder SE 4x4 (little red offroad commuter box) 1995 Jaguar (X300) XJR 1998 Honda Pacific Coast PC800 (two-wheeled pickup truck/utility bike) |
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