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Thread: Volvo won't start....Answered!

  1. #1
    YF19pilot's Avatar
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    Volvo won't start....Answered!

    To be honest, I'm stumpted. My Volvo won't start, and it's bugging the hell out of me, mainly because the cost of replacing what may or may not be the problem is stacking up, but also that if it's anything outside of what I haven't replaced, that means I need to take it to a shop. And that costs money I don't have.


    Here's the problem:

    Car cranks, everything turns, I have all my electrics, I can hear the fuel pump working, fuel is getting to the fuel rail, and that leaves very little to replace.

    Between my brother and I (and unfortunately without the aid of a manual that I have ordered from ipd and won't be in untill wednesday) we have determined that it has to be:

    Distributor
    Distributor Cap
    Plug Wires
    Plugs
    And what we thought were relays.

    Well, my brother and I got the Distributor Cap replaced, and I've just come in from replacing the plugs (have to wait on the wires, though); and found out the relays were for the AC system and had nothing to do with starting the car (atm, I'll have to wait for the manual.)

    So that leaves...the wires that I haven't replaced. The only other thing it could be are the injectors (which my brother and I removed and wiped off) or something that is more involved than I have the facilities for and would require me taking it to a shop, or something so stupidly simple that I'm over looking it entirely.

    So I turn this problem over to you, untill I get the manual in the mail, and am able to discern the problem with a little more clarity.

    My car is a 1990 740GL (B230F, naturally aspirated I-4, 5-speed manual).
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    burnsy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by http://experts.about.com/q/Volvo-802/1990-volvo-740-gl.htm
    Question
    I have a volvo 740 gl. recently i started having problems getting it to start.after i would drive it for awhile and turn it off it would take 15min to 30mins to get it to start again.now it refuses to start at all.it just continues to crank. i have already replaced spark plugs,cap,rotor and plug wires.what else could it possibly be?i was told it could be my timing belt.please help i need my car back!!!!!!!

    Answer
    Candi,
    Some testing will be required. Pull back the timing cover and see if the timing belt is ok. You can get an idea if the belt is broken by removing the oil cap and cranking the engine to see if the camshaft turns. Also if you have a Bosch system and the fuel pump under the car just behind the drivers seat feel it while you crank the engine and see if it runs. If it does not run check for power going to the pump. Things like the fuse and fuel pump relay.
    what i've found so far. gonna keep looking.

    you could also check that the correct voltage is getting to the injectors, and that the ground from them has continuity. the injectors could get the right voltage, but if the ground isn't working for some reason, they don't fire.

    Quote Originally Posted by http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.volvo/browse_thread/thread/21cf58f896061ca0/e0ac2d4bee455528?lnk=st&q=1990+740+GL+does+not+start&rnum=7&hl=en#e0ac2d4bee455528
    If the t-belt is broken, you will not have spark.
    There should be 2 black relays mounted on the coolant bottle. Swap these two
    relays and see if the car starts. If it does start, you have a faulty fuel
    injector relay. The relay with the red/green wire is for the fuel injectors.The
    other relay operates the front electrical cooling fan. Both relays are the
    same. Do you hear the fuel pump running for a second or so when you stop
    cranking the engine over?if yes, then ok. If no fuel pump noise, the fuel pump
    relay may be faulty. The fuel pump relay is located in behind fuse #1. It is
    the white relay. Feel the relay. It should click when the key is turned on and
    a second click when cranking the engine over. There is always a possibility of
    faulty spark plugs. For some reason LH Volvo engines do not like Platinum bosch
    plugs. These plugs can cause a no start condition to poor idle upon starting.
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    Da Superfan teletubby-warrior's Avatar
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    How the hell did you break a Volvo!
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    Did you try pulling off each plug wire at a time and hold them close to something metal and then have a friend crank the car to see if there is spark? If there is'nt any, thne you work backwards through the ignition system, to the dizzy, then to the coil.
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    Hormone Induced BerserkerCatSplat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C53A_4G63T
    Did you try pulling off each plug wire at a time and hold them close to something metal and then have a friend crank the car to see if there is spark? If there is'nt any, thne you work backwards through the ignition system, to the dizzy, then to the coil.
    That'd be my suggestion. Pull out a spark plug, attach it to the plug wire, ground it out and see if you get spark.

    I'm willing to bet it's your distributor or your coil. Having all your plugs or plug wires fail simultaneously is next to impossible, and you've already checked your dizzy cap. Check your dizzy rotor and points, then check your distributor itself. I hate to say this, but replacing your distributor might not be very cheap.
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    YF19pilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BerserkerCatSplat
    Quote Originally Posted by C53A_4G63T
    Did you try pulling off each plug wire at a time and hold them close to something metal and then have a friend crank the car to see if there is spark? If there is'nt any, thne you work backwards through the ignition system, to the dizzy, then to the coil.
    That'd be my suggestion. Pull out a spark plug, attach it to the plug wire, ground it out and see if you get spark.

    I'm willing to bet it's your distributor or your coil. Having all your plugs or plug wires fail simultaneously is next to impossible, and you've already checked your dizzy cap. Check your dizzy rotor and points, then check your distributor itself. I hate to say this, but replacing your distributor might not be very cheap.
    Yeah, I've looked into it, and I think it was something like $150 to replace the distributor.

    I'll have to check the timing belt as well, see if that's it.

    Thanks for the advice burnsy, I'm going to have to check that web site out.


    And teletubby-warrior, I'm still trying to figure that one out myself...
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    Cobol74's Avatar
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    Can you get a distributor from a Breakers Yard? Probably a lot cheaper - if it turns out to be the problem. My bet is the coil though. You are sure that you have a fuel feed right?
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    YF19pilot's Avatar
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    Alright, got my roommate to help out, so I could check a few things. The cams are running, so that means the timing belt is okay, which leaves the distributor and coil.

    Cobol74, yes, I'm sure I'm getting fuel feed, my brother came down last weekend to help, and we pulled the fuel rail off to check it, and there was plenty of petrol leaking out. I'll have to check around for a salvage yard, but it may be better to buy new (or I may be forced to depending on if my roommates feel like giving me a ride out to one...)

    Thanks, everyone, I think I know what the problem is now (or at least have a general idea). I just have to wait a while for the money to come in. Since I've just moved into my appartment, I don't have much cash to throw around.
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    Hormone Induced BerserkerCatSplat's Avatar
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    What did it turn out to be?
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    YF19pilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BerserkerCatSplat
    What did it turn out to be?
    It's either the coil or distributor. I'll let you guys know when I get the money to affoard getting them replaced...it sucks being on a budget...
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    You might want to check out www.turbobricks.com for your Volvo needs. I know I have learnt alot from there with my Volvo.
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    ruuman's Avatar
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    Don't forget it maybe the condensor as well, I've had a few problems with them and incositant sparks.

    If your dizzy is screwed there's always ebay.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DISTR...spagenameZWDVW

    $39.99 seems pretty good to me.

    Good luck

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    Blind_Io's Avatar
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    I would recommend going with a new part if it's your distributor. Parts like distributors and alternators have parts that wear out, it will probably be cheaper in the long run to just buy a new part if you need it. Your next best option is a rebuilt part, but your last option should be a used part.

    That's just my $.02
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  14. #14
    YF19pilot's Avatar
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    Alright, after finally trying the coil, which didn't work, and having gotten money to do so, I took my car to a local shop that is run by a mechanic that could almost be called Mr. Volvo.

    The relays were one issue, and he replaced one of them. The other issue, which he spotted first, was the engine speed sensor, which was shot. So, now my Volvo works. Thanks for your help, intarweb prize goes to Burnsy.



    Actually I'm glad I didn't replace the distributor. It would have cost $20 more than the mechanic's bill came to...
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