Ownership Verified: 1000lbs. Lighter! 1987 Mercury Colony Park

Dr_Grip

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I am thinking about getting a McGovern 72 bumper sticker for Lucille.
 

93Flareside

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1000lbs. Lighter! 1987 Mercury Colony Park

Well, back to the shop she goes. Coolant leak was "fixed" back in November. The last piece of the puzzle is the intake manifold. I'm told that the mating surfaces may not be good anymore depending on how long this leak has been going on? Something about bubbles popping causing corrosion to the surface. Seems a bit fishy but ok. She was holding coolant up until a few days ago. Last night I had a 28 mile round trip and just before I left, I noticed a coolant stream leading to my floor drain... overflow was empty when before it was about half full. Great.... so I top it off and complete my journey. This morning the stream was still there and the overflow was empty again. I noticed puddle behind the water pump. Checked all hose clamps and then called the shop. Hopefully this is the last piece of the puzzle.
 

93Flareside

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Since then, we've been leak free with coolant. The next leak to tackle is the power steering lines. It's otherwise been problem free mechanically.

The set of alloy wheels I got with the thing are seriously jacked. They were balanced in such a way that you could not rotate them. Front wheels had the weights moved out from where the calipers are and the tears were balanced more inward. Despite this, the car shook horribly on the highway to point that I went back to the steelies and rattley hubcaps. I have another set of wheels from Craig that I plan to get tires for once I sell the alloys.
 

93Flareside

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No new tires yet. Had the drivers side caliper freeze up on me causing me to waste a rotor two weeks ago. Slapped a cheapy O'Reilly rotor on with a re-manufactured caliper on with pads. That's just so I could pick up my diswasher. I've got another Centric cross drilled and slotted coming. On the plus of all this, I can safely say that you will not crack a rotor that's been drilled. I drove 20 miles with the caliper half released just roasting the rotor. Other than being glazed, it was intact. I've since ordered a passenger caliper and a bearing packer so that I don't run into this problem. Other than that, trouble free driving. :)
 

Spectre

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I *have* cracked a drilled rotor. So have many other people.



You just got really lucky.
 

93Flareside

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Last week, my solution to plugging the air injection to the drivers cat failed yet again. So, I booger welded a bolt I had laying around and used muffler sealer (grey kind) to seal up leaks I had left. This being the first thing I ever welded (and flux core), I practiced a little before hand and got a better handle on it. Youtube also helped in providing some sort of technique to follow and how to set up the welder a bit. Now that I've got gloves and a mask, I kind of want a welder of my own even if it's just for exhaust work. I borrowed the small portable Hobart 140 from my dads work to do this. After doing this, I now know why my brother's flux core welding jobs always looked like ass. Change the polarity in the welder when you do flux core.

Upon lowering the wagon off the jack and stand, the passenger rear shock blew out for reasons I don't understand. Now I'm just waiting for a replacement shock from Amazon. Even with Sunday delivery (bless shipping workers), it still came out 20 dollars cheaper than Autozone/O'Reilly's/Advance. I would've still had to order it since these guys only stock Monroe.

Still haven't got the replacement rotor because USPS in California appear to not have released it for shipment. Been sitting in Garden Grove, CA since June 29th. Amazon's shipment status says (paraphrasing) "if it's not here by the this coming Friday contact us." I also need to check drum brake adjustment as pedal travel is really long. It has been since I got it but, lately, it feels worse for some reason.
 
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93Flareside

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Shock is in, drums adjusted. I now finally have the brake pedal feel I've been expecting. Apparently, the shoes weren't touching the drums at all. With my past experience with my flareside, drums have to drag a little bit to provide good brake power and pedal feel. Problem is the drums are worn enough with a rust edge that doesn't allow you to pull the drum off and adjust the star adjuster easily. Only way was through the backing plate. Took longer but, it was worth it. Productive weekend I'd say.
 

93Flareside

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Still haven't got the replacement rotor because USPS in California appear to not have released it for shipment. Been sitting in Garden Grove, CA since June 29th. Amazon's shipment status says (paraphrasing) "if it's not here by the this coming Friday contact us." I also need to check drum brake adjustment as pedal travel is really long. It has been since I got it but, lately, it feels worse for some reason.
Rotor finally showed up sometime last week. I was out of town and came home to the package on my doorstep. Now I'm just waiting for a day that doesn't have condensing humidity outside as well as cooler. Monday evening is looking promising as it's supposed to only get into the mid 70s during the day and low 60s in the evening.
 

93Flareside

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Replaced the other worn out battery cable that connects the negative side from battery to the engine block. It seems to take less cranks on the starter to fire up now. Otherwise, completely unchanged. Used it to pick up a 30HP electric motor a few weeks back. It drives so nice on the highway. The seat just needs some new padding.
 

93Flareside

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93Flareside;n3395101 said:
Shock is in, drums adjusted. I now finally have the brake pedal feel I've been expecting. Apparently, the shoes weren't touching the drums at all. With my past experience with my flareside, drums have to drag a little bit to provide good brake power and pedal feel. Problem is the drums are worn enough with a rust edge that doesn't allow you to pull the drum off and adjust the star adjuster easily. Only way was through the backing plate. Took longer but, it was worth it. Productive weekend I'd say.
Had another shock blow out on the rear passengers side. a month out of warranty as well. Ordered two because it seems this is going to be a recurring issue during this, I replaced the rear spring insulators because that seemed like an easy job.



Now that they're in, most the irritating little vibrations on otherwise smooth roads is gone out of the rear. Now I have to do the front because that feeling has moved. I don't own a spring compressor and really don't want to play that game so I will probably have a shop do it. Replaced the driveshaft U-joints because over 65mph, I would get a growling noise and it would continue up to 80mph. Brake master cylinder was also replaced because the brake feel became variable in its feel. So far, this has helped the most and it was a good idea because the old one was leaking out the back. Also earlier this summer, I got tires for the 16" wheels CraigB gave me a couple years ago.



It's slowly getting better which is nice because motivation to sell it comes up frequently...
 

Spectre

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What kind of shocks are you buying with warranties that short???
 

Spectre

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93Flareside;n3553058 said:
KYB Gas-a-just. They have a one year warranty.
Ummm....

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...197075&jsn=388

KYB Warranty Information:
Lifetime: All Branded KYB Shock Absorbers, Struts, Strut-Plus and Strut Cartridges (Except Electronic and Self-Leveling Units)
One (1) Year: Strut Mounts, Boots, Hardware and Steering Stabilizers.
180 Days: Electronic and Self-Leveling units.
More: http://www.rockauto.com/genImages/63...01-01-2016.pdf

Those are conventional shocks on the rear, they're not struts, electronic or self-leveling. They have a lifetime warranty. Unless you bent them or jumped the car and blew the seals that way, they're defective and should still be under warranty.
 
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93Flareside

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Oh, I misread then... both times the shock started leaking as I lowered the car off jack stands, would that be considered abuse?
 

93Flareside

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Did not get any photos but, I replaced the battery and did an oil change. Battery started leaking while on the trickle charger last winter and doesn’t hold a charge very well. I haven’t been stranded but the starter sounded weak a lot of times after sitting.

Things on the list this year. Replace all drum brake hardware in the rear, replace the starter as warm starts it cranks really slow but is fine when the engine is cold, and body mount bushings. Hopefully the constant little shakes I feel on the road will go away with the bushing job. They were lessened when I did the rear coil spring bushings so I’m hopeful that body mount ones continue the trend. That will probably be done by a shop as I don’t have the tools nor patience to do it myself. I’ve done drum brake and starters but never something like that. Plus I can’t find a bushing kit for a wagon and forums state there’s an extra two bushings that the sedan kits don’t have for obvious reasons. Let a shop figure that one out.
 
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