Ownership Verified: 1967 Ford Fairlane 500

NotLaw

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Maybe I missed it, but did you change your proportioning valve when you went to rear discs? If you've still got a disc/drum proportioning/combination valve installed, it'll never send enough volume to the rear to make the discs work. You need a disc/disc valve or (even better) an adjustable one.

That's not to say you don't still have some air in there somewhere, but it may be compounding your problems.

Edit:



If that image is accurate and no changes were made after it was taken, your rear calipers are installed backwards (driver's side caliper on passenger side and vice versa). Bleed screws need to be on top to get the air out, in this pic the caliper on the divers side is a passenger-side caliper as you can see the bleed screw is on the bottom side of the piston housing - they will never bleed correctly like that. You can just see where the bleed screw should be on the passenger side caliper as well, and since it's not there I can safely say the calipers are just swapped rather than you having two passenger-side calipers installed.

The proportioning valve is an adjustable one, also from Wilwood, that was installed about a year ago.

There were no changes to the master or the proportioning valve for the swap, but the master has no residual valve, so it is good for a disk/disk setup.

There was also no residual valve in the system for the rear drums, so they probably were not working right :dunno:



Either way, good spot on the calipers; they were indeed not changed since that picture. There was a reddit post on Tuesday that I saw not long after my post here that clued me in, and I went out and checked:


3555425


3555426




The calipers are indeed upside down🔨

Its going to be fixed this weekend. I was going to post up about it after I had fixed it, but you beat me to it 👍
 

BerserkerCatSplat

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RE: valving - often-times the residual valve(s) were part of the OEM proportioning valve (hence "combination valve") instead of a separate item. Chevy truck combination valves are super common for front disc swaps for that very reason - everything you need in a single package. I think Ford did use separate residual valves for drum-drum cars in those years, who knows what happened to yours.

Glad you figured out the brake orientation issue, be sure to give your dad a ribbing for the ol' rookie mistake!
 

NotLaw

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I think the old master cylinder had the residual valve built into it, that, or the combination valve that came with my front disk conversion did.

Either way, both of those were junked last year when I replaced the master cylinder for leaking, and and combination valve for being a POS.

The wilwood master/proportioning valve has no residual valve, so I think all will be well once I swap the calipers around.


I'll be sure to give my dad at least a little crap, but I should have noticed it too, since it's not like I didn't know lol.

I'm really just glad that I've got a smoking gun to point at. It irritates me when I have an issue and I don't know the root cause.
 

NotLaw

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Holley's wiring documentation for Coil Near Plug distributor-less ignition sucks.

In other news, I now am in possession of a '98 ford explorer's cam position synchronizer/sensor, as well as 8 new D585 Gm truck coils. Next up on the buy list is a solution for a crank trigger wheel and sensor. Looking into aftermarket 36-1 wheels (such as the DIYAutotune one), and ideally, an OE sensor. Perhaps from the GM catalog.


The Fairlane has been running great, but the broken bushing in the distributor is a problem, and I have decided to fix it.

That is all for today.
 

Spectre

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Holley's wiring documentation for Coil Near Plug distributor-less ignition sucks.

In other news, I now am in possession of a '98 ford explorer's cam position synchronizer/sensor, as well as 8 new D585 Gm truck coils. Next up on the buy list is a solution for a crank trigger wheel and sensor. Looking into aftermarket 36-1 wheels (such as the DIYAutotune one), and ideally, an OE sensor. Perhaps from the GM catalog.


The Fairlane has been running great, but the broken bushing in the distributor is a problem, and I have decided to fix it.

That is all for today.
Erm... why not adopt the entire EDIS8 system from an Exploder with the 5.0?
 

NotLaw

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Erm... why not adopt the entire EDIS8 system from an Exploder with the 5.0?
So, I can't use the trigger wheel from an explorer directly because its pressed onto the backside of the explorer's 50oz harmonic balancer. I need the trigger wheel to be on a 28oz balance. so right there, I'm already doing custom fab. Of course, I have to do that no matter what, and it's one of the big issues with the whole conversion.

The easy solution is to sandwich a trigger wheel between the balancer and the crank pulley, and then space the water pump pulley and alternator out accordingly. That's actually what I am going to do for now, but I don't like that solution much. I think getting the runout on the wheel to be small enough to make me happy is going to be a PITA.

When I add AC to the car, I may end up going serpentine, and possibly that will happen by way of adopting most or all of an explorer or mustang's front accessory drive.
It's a project for later and rife with it's own problems, but when it happens and when I am solving those problems, I think I may try to get some time on one of the mills at work to machine a custom crank pulley that does what I need.



Anyways, as far as directly using an EDIS crank sensor, its an option that I have not ruled out yet. I'm still digging into the pro's and cons of Variable Reluctance vs Hall Effect sensors.
Either way, no matter what sensor I use, I'm going to have to fab a custom bracket, because my timing cover was designed in the 60's, and does not have the provisions the later covers use. (and I'm not switching unless I have no choice. It's a pain in the ass to get that thing to seal)


For the coils though, I was able to get the LS2/D585 coils for a good price (a little under $9.50 a coil) from a seller on facebook. When I saw how much he was asking, I jumped on it without even giving consideration to EDIS.

I don't think the EDIS coils are any better or worse though, it's just a different package really. There is an existing bracket to mount the things, but it's fugly, so I probably wouldn't want to use it anyways.




The main difference then between EDIS and an LS style coil-near-plug system is that EDIS uses a module to interface between the ECU and the coils, where the LS system has the ECU driving the coils directly.

The Dominator is compatible with both, but why add the complexity of an interface module? Driving the coils directly seems easier and more reliable to me.





I'm not really going for wasted spark anyways, since I have the cam position sensor already, it's not necessary to run wasted spark. I'm pretty sure I can though. It's just a dropdown menu change in the holley software.



Also, all that being said; in 466 posts, and 24 pages of this thread; have I ever chosen the easy or obvious solution? :mrgreen:
Custom is the name of the game 'round these parts.

If I was going the usual route, the fairlane would still have a carb and 3 speed automatic.
 

Spectre

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Ummmm... You can use any EDIS system with an external/aftermarket trigger wheel. That's what we did for a number of XJ6 MegaSquirt conversions - used the DIYAutotune wheel with an EDIS6 crank sensor and yes, a custom sensor mount I welded up (based on the original timing pointer mounted to the front of the engine, which we retained.)

Also, as for why you would use the EDIS8 module - the EDIS8 module includes limp-home functionality. If for some reason comms between the ECU and EDIS module are lost, the EDIS will go into safe mode with 10 degrees advance and sit there until the problem is resolved. It also completely removes the possibility of coil voltages accidentally getting dumped into the ECU, which is a known problem with some setups. Additionally, if your injectors aren't firing, the EDIS allows for you to easily diagnose whether it is the ECU or the crank sensor - if the crank sensor is fine, EDIS will continue to fire the spark plugs.

If you use an external trigger wheel, you will have to use a VR sensor (much like OEMs have used for the past couple decades) or you will have to glue/weld/fasten one or more magnets to your trigger wheel to "tell" the Hall-effect sensor what's going on (have fun with balancing it then). Few people in the MS or aftermarket EFI conversion world these days think that fabbing up a new Hall-effect system is a good idea when most parts on the market are oriented to VR.
 
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