Euduro races online?

I'm running softs for testing. I'll do an arcade race and see how the longevity is on them. How much does a tire change add to the pit stop times?
 
I think in the ballpark of 10 seconds, the fuel is what takes forever
 
MadCat360 said:
I'm running softs for testing. I'll do an arcade race and see how the longevity is on them. How much does a tire change add to the pit stop times?
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That makes me feel a lot better about not being able to get within 10 seconds of your lap times.
 
I'm using racing soft. Set up still needs perfecting, the car has a bit too much understeer in the midspeed corners for my liking and the occasional snap oversteer, but my fastest so far is 1:54.273 in the Honda NSX, which I'm fairly sure I'll be using for the race. I don't know yet though.
 
I haven't run any practice laps on Grand Valley yet, but I'm using racing softs on my RUF. From my experience in A-spec, there is no benefit to using hard tires: they are (in my RUF during the Grand Valley Race) 4 seconds slower a lap, last around the same as the softs and lose too much traction in the corners.

As for pit stop times, expect 10-12 seconds for a tire change and anywhere from 2 seconds to near 30 for fuel. I've never put a stopwatch on during the pitstop, but I believe my average stop was around 40 seconds when I had to add a fuel load and change tires. I also seem to recall that a 50 lap race on Grand Valley isn't really that bad on fuel, I believe it's just over one tank.
 
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Topgearfanatic said:
I'm using racing soft. Set up still needs perfecting, the car has a bit too much understeer in the midspeed corners for my liking and the occasional snap oversteer, but my fastest so far is 1:54.273 in the Honda NSX, which I'm fairly sure I'll be using for the race. I don't know yet though.
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I just managed 1:54 in a DN-X. Purple windows ftw?

For now I'll continue my quest for cars with the wtf factor but so far that might be the one.

Every logical brain cell is telling me that the 1969 Corvette Convertible is a terrible idea. My best time is 1:57....

But the rest of me is saying V8! Supercharger! Side Exhaust!
 
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Ehhh...
I am starting to doubt my choice of car after I read about a RUF, a NSX and a Evora... god knows what else you guys will think of.
Oh the beauty of having 1000 cars in a car game. Variety, thou are a heartless biatche. :drums:

My BMW has all weight reductions and it's stil 1240kg. It cannot have a supercharger or a turbo. :lol:
All I can upgrade are the piping, the ECU and the suspension. :p
I am struggling to hit the times I see posted here. :|
But that's enough of chatter from me. ^^ I made my choice and I'm sticking to it.

Nevertheless, I do have something to add to the topic.
The Qualifying will be held before the race. Meaning I will open the room in time for us all to post a few quick flying laps.
30minutes is enough for everyone?
 
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It should be enough since everyone is already getting tuning done beforehand.

I think the Z4 M should still be a competetive car in the race. If you've got the 400hp and the weight within 100kg of the limit the only things holding the car back would be engine design (where the torque curve is) and suspension. The suspension is tunable and the engine in the Bimmer is pretty good.

I have one other car that I might choose over the RUF but I've not gotten a chance to run hotlaps with it against the RGT. I have been tweaking a WRX Wagon that I think may have a decent shot (I will say again that having a load of real life spring rates available to try makes tuning so much better and more fun). It would be funny if a wagon does better than an NSX or an Evora. :p
 
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P5138 said:
It should be enough since everyone is already getting tuning done beforehand.

I think the Z4 M should still be a competetive car in the race. If you've got the 400hp and the weight within 100kg of the limit the only things holding the car back would be engine design (where the torque curve is) and suspension. The suspension is tunable and the engine in the Bimmer is pretty good.

I have one other car that I might choose over the RUF but I've not gotten a chance to run hotlaps with it against the RGT. I have been tweaking a WRX Wagon that I think may have a decent shot (I will say again that having a load of real life spring rates available to try makes tuning so much better and more fun). It would be funny if a wagon does better than an NSX or an Evora. :p
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... yeah, the Corvette revs to a massive 5500 RPM and I've added a gear to the 4-speed trasmission to make a 5-speed :lol: (I tried to get a close-up of what exactly the driver is doing when I shift into gear 5 but I couldn't see into the car well enough).

As much as it's more fun to drive, I can't escape the fact that it's just slower. I have a few more cars to try but it's back to the DN-X for now.
 
I would like to get in on this. My PSN is Eunos_Cosmo20b

Expect something with a rotary :p

I'm using a near box-stock RE Amemiya RX-7 (the blue, road legal one) My times are competitive. Everyone ok with me using a 'tuner' car? It is 399hp and 1240kg

edit: Knocking on 1:51 with the above setup. Watchout madcat :p
 
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Eunos_Cosmo said:
I would like to get in on this. My PSN is Eunos_Cosmo20b

Expect something with a rotary :p

I'm using a near box-stock RE Amemiya RX-7 (the blue, road legal one) My times are competitive. Everyone ok with me using a 'tuner' car? It is 399hp and 1240kg
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I was thinking about that car. I didn't think it would be heavy enough (I haven't bought it yet)... nice choice! Does that thing come with adjustable suspension and transmission like the race car?
 
The suspension and aero is adjustable, the trans is not. It's handling is immense...stock for stock it is faster around Grand Valley than an LF-A (same tires)
 
Eunos_Cosmo said:
I would like to get in on this. My PSN is Eunos_Cosmo20b

Expect something with a rotary :p

I'm using a near box-stock RE Amemiya RX-7 (the blue, road legal one) My times are competitive. Everyone ok with me using a 'tuner' car? It is 399hp and 1240kg

edit: Knocking on 1:51 with the above setup. Watchout madcat :p
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I don't see why not, any car I use will be completely gutted and loaded up with non-power-adding parts anyway...
 
Eunos_Cosmo said:
edit: Knocking on 1:51 with the above setup. Watchout madcat :p
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Damn! I'm pulling 1:53s in the RUF and thought I had my bases covered... looks like I'm going to have to make some adjustments. Mostly to the problem between the wheel and the seat, since I am pretty sure I can get to 1:52 with the current setup, maybe tweak the car a bit more to get it down to 1:51.

I wonder how much fuel your little turbo rotary is going to gobble up per lap and if your (max) 2 seconds a lap difference will be enough to hold off the competition during your refuel. I'm pretty sure an NA Flat-6 is a little more fuel efficient.
 
P5138 said:
Damn! I'm pulling 1:53s in the RUF and thought I had my bases covered... looks like I'm going to have to make some adjustments. Mostly to the problem between the wheel and the seat, since I am pretty sure I can get to 1:52 with the current setup, maybe tweak the car a bit more to get it down to 1:51.

I wonder how much fuel your little turbo rotary is going to gobble up per lap and if your (max) 2 seconds a lap difference will be enough to hold off the competition during your refuel. I'm pretty sure an NA Flat-6 is a little more fuel efficient.
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That's actually a really good point that I hadn't considered. My main problem though, is not what kind of lap time I can pull off, but how often I can do it. Expect to see lots of skidmarks and a very dented car by the end of the race.....
 
It is a good point. I used the same car for the Grand Valley 300k race and it did use a TON of fuel...
 
thevictor390 said:
That's actually a really good point that I hadn't considered. My main problem though, is not what kind of lap time I can pull off, but how often I can do it. Expect to see lots of skidmarks and a very dented car by the end of the race.....
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A good point on your end: I've been nudging my time down by tenths every 7 or so laps and with each successful adjustment. Even with the better top times, my average is still somewhere around 1:54.0 if I count in all my laps with missed brake points and bad lines. I'm not sure if I should be happy with a very stable, decently quick setup that could get 1:52s or if I should continue tweaking it without care for tire wear or fuel use (right now I know my car will only need a sip of fuel when I change tires. In fact, I might even be able to do the whole race on one tank if I go with my results in the A-Spec Grand Valley race).

I'm at 1:53.1 right now and have had laps where I beat my ghost by more than half a second in some turns, but then lose the lead 10 seconds later :mad:.
 
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The FD is capable of 1:51's but realistically, I can run consistant 1:53's every lap at 85% and that's mainly what my tuning goal was.
 
During my testing I "accidentally" gave the car an engine refresh. The engine now has only 397 hp, and the least I can go up is to 405hp... just a bit too much. Anyone know a surefire way to permanently make the engine lose power (preferably a single horsepower so I can put on an exhaust manifold and get right on the limit ;))?

The only good things to come out of this is the torque band has improved considerably and with the reduced power I was able to dial in a really, really good setup thanks to some Porsche factory spec sheets (I may be 6hp down, but my time is only a tenth slower than my previous best).
 
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Just run-in the car a bit, should increase the power up to about 404.
 
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