Ownership Verified: EyeMWing's Correct-Wheel-Drive Lesbaru

EyeMWing

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JOIIIIIIIIIIIIIIN USSSSSSSSSSSSSS.

Another oil change yesterday. Tossed on a Fumoto valve and went to a K&N filter. Still Mobil-1 'Enhanced Fuel Economy' 0w-20 synthetic.

Need to do the diff oil. The factory stuff is garbage. Going to grab some Amsoil next weekend.

Needs to be washed and detailed quite badly - my front license plate bracket is not compatible with automatic car washes.
 

Bhatman

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0w-20 is a weight you don't come across often. What's the benefit, out of curiosity?
Subaru changed there oil spec on 2.5s and 2.0s when they had issues on the Turbo blocs back in 08 due to banjo bolt filter issues....lead to commonality out here.
 

Sevs753

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The reason I found was for fuel economy. It's a stupid reason IMO, especially for this car but it's what the manufacturer calls for so unless someone tracks the car a lot, I don't see a reason to change weights.
 

EyeMWing

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0w-20 is a weight you don't come across often. What's the benefit, out of curiosity?
First and foremost, you get to keep your warranty. It's the spec.

Versus 5w20? Less viscosity at startup. Given the weird shit these motors do at cold startup (all sorts of pulses and pops and shit on every single one I've talked to the owner of), I'm willing to give them the benefit of the doubt on it being a necessary thing to keep it from lunching itself. Once it its temperature it's identical to 5w20, 10w20, 15w20, or in fact straight SAE20.

It's 'uncommon' in that it doesn't appear to be chemically possible to get 0w20 with conventional oil (in that I've literally never seen it), but it's a common stock item for synthetics, at least here. Walmart carries it, FFS.
 

Bhatman

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First and foremost, you get to keep your warranty. It's the spec.

Versus 5w20? Less viscosity at startup. Given the weird shit these motors do at cold startup (all sorts of pulses and pops and shit on every single one I've talked to the owner of), I'm willing to give them the benefit of the doubt on it being a necessary thing to keep it from lunching itself. Once it its temperature it's identical to 5w20, 10w20, 15w20, or in fact straight SAE20.

It's 'uncommon' in that it doesn't appear to be chemically possible to get 0w20 with conventional oil (in that I've literally never seen it), but it's a common stock item for synthetics, at least here. Walmart carries it, FFS.
Pulses...pops..chatter...common to boxers with piston slap. Initially due to the 2.5 block on EJ25s it would be due to the bore dimensions. Im surprised even with the new block it does the same, with the Toyota DI and also the 86mmx86mm bore of the block...On older blocks the recommendation is to let the oil "warm" up as it would reduce the chatter...guess its inherent to the design.
 

Hbriz

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It's more the 20 that is odd to me. The lowest operating temp viscosity commonly available here is 30, i.e 0w-30 or 5w-30. I've never seen anything-20 in an Australian auto shop.
 

EyeMWing

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It's more the 20 that is odd to me. The lowest operating temp viscosity commonly available here is 30, i.e 0w-30 or 5w-30. I've never seen anything-20 in an Australian auto shop.
20 is enormously common in current American production. Potentially some of it is down to economy requirements, since lower viscosity oil creates less drag. Or maybe Australia is weird because of your weather or something. Changed oil on 3 cars last weekend - brz 0w20, honda fit 5w20, hyundai veloster 5w20.

Pulses...pops..chatter...common to boxers with piston slap. Initially due to the 2.5 block on EJ25s it would be due to the bore dimensions. Im surprised even with the new block it does the same, with the Toyota DI and also the 86mmx86mm bore of the block...On older blocks the recommendation is to let the oil "warm" up as it would reduce the chatter...guess its inherent to the design.
Interesting. Sounds consistent, since it goes away within seconds of startup.
 

Perc

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The only car I know of to get anything-20 up here is the 3-cylinder Ford Ecoboost.

My car uses 5W-30, and it gets Mobil ESP Formula since that's what the local dealer uses and it still is under warranty. 5W-50, 5W-40 and 0W-40 are all very common weights. And everything has been synthetic for a decade or two, btw.
 

EyeMWing

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-50? In a modern car? The only applications for that here are vintage, diesel (truck), racing, and 'this engine has so much blow-by that we need super-heavy oil to keep the cylinder walls lubricated'. And we definitely still have plenty of conventional oil on the shelf (of course, we're an oil producing nation and therefore that's still economical)

There appears to be an interesting delta in oil specifications between countries. Which is weird because we broadly all get the same powerplants.
 
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Hbriz

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From my experience I'd say that in auto shops here the most common viscosities are 5w-30 and 10w-40. It's easier to buy a 40w-70 engine oil than anything-20.
 

Sevs753

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Either will look good. I'd say red if you want to stand out or black if you're just looking for functionality.
I'm thinking about getting a set of black ones if I decided to keep my car out next winter.

Have you gotten much snow where you are? Hows the car handling it?
 

Spectre

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[video=youtube;66-D5LdhRWA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66-D5LdhRWA[/video]
 
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