GT5 Tuning

-Cpt. J.-

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On our last Test & Tune for the up and coming endurance race it hit me hard how important it is to tune your car. Ofcourse I know that having a good card and a good setup is key. The thing is while I know something about cars and such I am not a mechanic and I have no racing experience. So far my tuning formula has been as follows (trial+error)*time=result. It is a very tedious process...

I went on the web to find good tuning guides.
The idea is for us to gather good tuning guides in this topic. I have found a good guide. It doesn't offer ready tunes but rather introduces the player to what different components actually do when you change them. In depth.

I know you can read about chassis tuning in the game when you hit the yellow question marks in the in-game menus but I for one don't find them helpfull at all. They are not clear enough for me.

Link:
http://gt5mania.com/tuning-guide/
 
Last edited:

thevictor390

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I will keep a keen eye on this topic, I have much, much to learn in this regard. My usual strategy is guesstimate some settings and adapt my driving style to them :(
 

Night_Hawk

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1996 Corolla 1.8 - 1996 Acura 3.5 RL
I usually screw around and use what works best myself (within ride height and sway bar settings) but things like shock rebound or an LSD's settings for example usually leave alone. And it's too bad sometimes.

Although some users at GTplanet make full tunes for certain cars and from what i've read they make a world of difference. I've yet to try any out though.
 

Aston Martin

Proudly supports terrible french cars
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Stolen from GTP, the front end takes off over bumps. But it's great improvement.


Bugatti Veyron 16.4 '09

Cylinder : 7993 cm3
Power : 1274 bph @ 6600 rpm
Torque : 1446 Nm @ 4600 rpm
Transmission : 4x4
Weigth : 1424 kg

Weigth-to-power ratio : 1.117

---

Hey guys, here's my 1000km Veyron. I used it a lot in High Speed Ring and I'm quite happy with it.
I'm open to any comments, improvements or suggestions.

---

All parts/oil change

Body/Chassis
---

Transmission
- Top Speed : 440kmh

Drive-train
Adjustable LSD (Front/Rear)
- Initial Torque : 7/10
- Acceleration Sensitivity : 17/35
- Braking Sensitivity : 20/14

Torque Sensing Center Differential (Front/Rear)
- Torque Split : 30/70

Suspension
Suspension (Front/Rear)
- Ride Height : -25/-25
- Spring Rate : 10.4/11.6
- Dampers (Extension) : 4/7
- Dampers (Compression) : 6/7
- Anti-Roll Bars : 6/5

Wheel Alignment (Front/Rear)
- Camber angle : +1.2/+0.7
- Toe Angle : +0.0/+0.0

Brakes (Front/Rear)
- Brake Balance 4/5

Drive aids
- ABS : 1
Else all off

Tuning circuit
- High Speed Ring mainly
- Sarthe with no chicanes

Tires
- Racing Soft/Soft. Not checked OK with Hard/Hard.

Tip
- You can't compete with LM cars. You haven't got their agility.
- Don't forget you can brake. :lol:
 

-Cpt. J.-

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Stolen from GTP, the front end takes off over bumps. But it's great improvement.
So basicly he just dropped it as much as he could, changed the brake balance to... heavily rear biased? and added racing softs? I am not sure about this tune.
 

Aston Martin

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^
LSD, brake and suspension different.

Try it, it's better than just a bolt-on Veyron.
 

Jmiller

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2001 Oldsmobile Aurora 3.5
What about upgrades? At this point I am only a level 10 and have been buying used cars for the most part. I always give them an oil change because it seems like the oil light is on many times, (is this necessary?) then go put on the sport air filter. From there I am trying to get the most bang for the buck which varies with the car. Is there a best practice to follow?
 

thevictor390

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'17 Mazda MX-5 RF, '89 Toyota Blizzard SX5
What about upgrades? At this point I am only a level 10 and have been buying used cars for the most part. I always give them an oil change because it seems like the oil light is on many times, (is this necessary?) then go put on the sport air filter. From there I am trying to get the most bang for the buck which varies with the car. Is there a best practice to follow?
Used cars seemingly are ALWAYS in dire need of oil change, and even preforming it on a new car will add a few HP. Otherwise, it would be interesting to do a study on average bang for your buck, especially if it varies by car. I might tune a few cars and do some calculations. I usually go with the racing air filter (whats 200 Cr more?), catalytic converter, and CPU upgrade for super-cheap power adders.
 

Kevin

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1993 Peugeot 405 T16, 1989 MR2 AW11
IIRC the chip has the best bang per buck ratio followed by the racing filter and then the catalyst.
 

Jmiller

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2001 Oldsmobile Aurora 3.5
I will have to add the chip more often. Weight reduction has to have some pretty good returns as well. There are some of these one race sessions on the really cheap low end cars that I hate to spend money on the car but it seems almost necessary.
 

Dino

aka Dins
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Maybe someone will find the following useful. Has helped me for the past 3 GT titles.

A couple of comments upfront:
Never forget the power of your vehicle. You'd treat a 600hp Corvette with a bit of respect in the real world, and you should in GT. These power figures may sound small when people race around in LeMans prototypes all day. But a WOT, 2nd gear, no TC corner just isn't going to happen without a bit of fuss. Even with RS tires.

Fully-adjustable suspensions need to be tuned, they are shit otherwise.

Most adjustments only change a single paramenter (rideheight only does height), which makes finding the proper knobs to turn a lot simpler.

A decent tune takes 30mins. It's fun and rewarding, so don't be afraid.

I use the following framework for every initial tune, before the freshly pimped (new suspension, etc.) vehicle does a single lap. For now only RWD, AWD is more complicated.

Differential:
IT: 8
Accel: 28
Brake: 12

Suspension:
Height: lowest
Springs: standard
Damper E: 5/5
Damper C: 5/5
ARB: 4/4
Camber: 1/0.5
Toe: -0.05/0.5

Brakes: standard

Aids: all off
Downforce: max
Tires: RH

Once all the values are set I go out and give it a try. Usual tracks, in that order:
Autumn Ring Mini (Reverse) - Good for an initial feel, lots of off-camber corners
Grand Valley - Lots of corner variations
Norschleife - The ultimate test, esp. damping, stiffness und gearing

Deep Forest is also good.

Now comes the tuning. Some of the most common scenarios:
-General understeer: Decrease front springs, increase back springs & ARB incrementally, maybe a bit more front camber
-General oversteer: Increase front springs & ARB, decrease back springs incrementally
-Understeer when applying power: Decrease Diff. IT and Accel. Then like general understeer if necessary
-Oversteer when applying power: Increase Diff. IT and Accel. Then like general oversteer if necessary
-Twitchy under braking: Increase Diff. Braking, decrease rear brake bias
-Slow turn-in: Decrease toe (more negative).
-Bouncy ride: Decrease springrate, dampers if necessary
-Wobbly ride: Increase springrate, dampers if necessary

I try to keep the overall springrate low to maximize grip.
A couple rounds of trial and error will show what changes are required. If it only gets worse, just set everything back to standard and try something else.

Hope this has been readable and helpful.

I will post the settings of some of my favourite cars later tonight.
 
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