Past timing belt changes being late aren't significant (even if they failed). The NA and NB are non-interference engines (assuming the internals aren't modified), so even if the timing belt snaps, it doesn't cause long term damage. You don't want it to snap because you don't want to be stranded and have to have it repaired, so change it on schedule... But past changes only matter so you know when to change it this time.Make sure the timing belt was done around 60k and again around 120k. That said, mine wasn't done until 80k and, needless to say, the car still runs to this day, even given the 20k extra. I won't wait that long when its my turn to change it though.
So I was offered a 1993 NA today. So far all I know about it is that it has 130k miles, is rollbared, and has been well cared for by the current owner. It runs and drivers with no problem.
The owner is selling it for $2k to friends and friends of friends, and won't be totally ready to sell it for another 2 weeks.
Now I did tell myself I wouldn't buy a 2nd car until February 2014 because I'll be at and out of town assignment from August 2013-Jan/Feb 2014 and I don't want to spend the money to store 2 cars, but this has got be seriously intrigued. I'm gonna go check it out when the seller is ready, and might be $2k short in a few weeks if it all checks out.
MX5 powered MGB?
skip to 32:20
Mods decrease the value of a carFor once, someone's actually offered a fair price on a Miata! Being in California, I've completely forgotten what that's like.
By the way, my car is coming up to $60k miles. Given the mods and the condition and the mileage, I could conceivably sell it for $10,000, and still have people knocking on my door.
I know. I know. Must be the heat or something.
The number one rust spot is the underside where the doors are (I've been drinking and can't remember what they're called ) Stay away from rusty cars. The shifter should feel nice and notchy and not have any issues going into gear. The pedals should feel somewhat firm too (at least compared to LCG's MRS.)
QFT. If I didn't have everything indicated over theretl;dr BUY THE DAMN THING!
Mods decrease the value of a car
rockers, and rear fenders clog way too easily. rust would be good to avoid in back. If only the rear fenders bolted on as nicely as the fronts...
Not if you're not an idiot and you sell to someone who's not an idiot.Mods decrease the value of a car
Which is why after you get the damned thing locate the little rubber drain and blow it out with compressed air. All kinds of leaves and other debris shot out of mine and into the interior. Also my front fenders were full of debris as well. I guess the PO parked it constantly under some trees.
Which is why after you get the damned thing locate the little rubber drain and blow it out with compressed air. All kinds of leaves and other debris shot out of mine and into the interior. Also my front fenders were full of debris as well. I guess the PO parked it constantly under some trees.
Which is why after you get the damned thing locate the little rubber drain and blow it out with compressed air. All kinds of leaves and other debris shot out of mine and into the interior. Also my front fenders were full of debris as well. I guess the PO parked it constantly under some trees.
Oh god not this again. I had this problem with my TT and it took me and Victor 3 hours of cursing and yelling to figure that shit out.
http://forums.finalgear.com/post-yo...f-a-german-soft-top-53721/page-4/#post1958180
Any reason to not just rip the thing out? I imagine a big hole will let things in, but also back out better than a little mesh screen that's clogged with silt and leaves.
(assuming you're talking about a drain cover, and not the tube that routes the soft top drain to the fender)
It must be a common affliction across the roadster kingdom. I could've potted a plant with the quantity and quality of crap that came out of my clogged drain.