Ownership Verified: My 44 -year old antique ['70 Cortina "GT"]

Andeh said:
7.5j Lotus wheels for me! Not that they're cheap...
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Surely the lotus steelies are not 7.5j??? The Escort RS ones I have are 5.5".
 
I don't think bling wheels suit an old car. Steelies are the way to go.
 
Slip of the finger, I mean 5.5j! 7.5j are made in the same style though, and look awesome.

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Posmo said:
Yours for 250? :p
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Could you possibly have any info about a hatch inner panel and the tacks that hold it in place? Mine is split in half and there are three tacks left or so. Barely holds on. Cardboard, black on the other side.
 
Rostyles are very rare here, as the coveted" Suomiauto"-spec cars only came with the standard steelies, I've only ever seen one 1600E in Finland..

I hate the look of Dunlop D1's and Cosmics.. Ideally I'd want something with just a hint of a lip to them. There is a set of 13x6 slotmags for sale quite close, but I've never really been a fan of those either. I still have about a month of time to look before I need to commit to a set, so still hoping something will come along. If not, I'll run the Escort RS steelies.

public said:
Could you possibly have any info about a hatch inner panel and the tacks that hold it in place? Mine is split in half and there are three tacks left or so. Barely holds on. Cardboard, black on the other side.
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A friend of mine has a mint one in a 5-door Sierra that he is breaking for parts. IIRC 2 or 3 of the tabs were broken, but the panel is "wie-neu". I can reserve it for you if you'd like.
 
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Posmo said:
A friend of mine has a mint one in a 5-door Sierra that he is breaking for parts. IIRC 2 or 3 of the tabs were broken, but the panel is "wie-neu". I can reserve it for you if you'd like.
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Would be very much appreciated. I have the rest of the tabs so it's completely fine, and something as light as the panel should be cheap to matkahuolto.

My rear bumper is all kinds of beat, but would that be more of a hassle to get here?
 
Dr_Grip said:
I don't think bling wheels suit an old car. Steelies are the way to go.
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I agree with the exceptions of Minilites and Rostyles (yeah I know they're steel but they're still blingy compared to normal steelies). :)

Been a long time since I looked at this thread, it's looking great now that the paint has been brought back.
 
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public said:
Would be very much appreciated. I have the rest of the tabs so it's completely fine, and something as light as the panel should be cheap to matkahuolto.

My rear bumper is all kinds of beat, but would that be more of a hassle to get here?
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The parts are in J?rvenp??, matkahuolto/posti would also be fine, shoot me a pm, I can take pics of the parts tomorrow. The rear bumper on the car that is to be broken has been used extremely extensively in "penkkajenkka", so it wouldn't be much good for you, it's only barely connected to the car :p
 
What about some 14" wheels with a 60 series tire?

I'm just about to swap my current wheels on my corolla for some old Celica Supra wheels with 185/55R14's in the front, and 185/60/R14 in the rear. The 60 series tires look really slick and IMO the 14's look just the right size, where as 13s look kinda awkward and small with the car as low as I have it, and 15's look huge.

You're car is of a similar size I think, so I figure the wheel options would be similar. I do like those 15" wheels you have. What's your bolt pattern? 4x4.5?
 
Posmo said:
Rostyles are very rare here, as the coveted" Suomiauto"-spec cars only came with the standard steelies, I've only ever seen one 1600E in Finland.
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There's a guy in my area with an 1600E, and a whole yard full of other British Fords for that matter.
 
Almost all of the really shitty jobs on the rear of the car have now been completed, and I can probably lower the rear back on the wheels early next week. Still need rear shocks, but they should be easy to come by.

3 spots that need welding remain on the car now, (front air dam panel, heater bubble (might be ok with just wire brushing and noverox, it's a shit job nonetheless), and the holes I had to drill to get the battery tray out. My plan of getting the car on the road by the 30th of August looks challenging, but not impossible.. :|

Anyway, pics:

Radius arm brackets welded (they also have paint now), I had to remove them again for adjusting, as I said before, this was the shittiest job I had to do on this car.. They are 0.9mm out of alignment on opposite sides of the car, which is close enough. Excuse the seam, I had to use flux-core wire as I ran out of welding gas..

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Front grille removed for blacking out the panels behind (they were showing through the grille) Hard to believe these cars had a reputation for rusting, there has never been any paint under the front slam panel?! :blink:

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The grille itself cleaned up quite nicely :)

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painted parts:

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Rear axle waiting to get under the car :) I had to paint the parts of the body underneath the rear bumper black as there was too much surface rust, this picture shows how it looks quite well. I feared it might look worse, certainly passable in my opinion.

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(Note the radius arm (or tramp bar) brackets that are pointing upwards in that picture. I had to weld those on with an ancient Telwin arc welder as I ran out of gas for the mig..



Looks, again, quite different to when I took it off the car:

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More updates coming soon. :)
 
Posmo said:
I had to paint the parts of the body underneath the rear bumper black as there was too much surface rust, this picture shows how it looks quite well. I feared it might look worse, certainly passable in my opinion.

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Go full ghetto sporty and paint the sills and front valance black too. It's what all the cool folk are doing. :p

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captain_70s said:
Go full ghetto sporty and paint the sills and front valance black too. It's what all the cool folk are doing. :p

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I gather I should take driving instructions from you aswell? :p Anyhow, the sills are 100% rust free, so no need to black them out, the front valance will need a bit of the treatment though :/
 
Axle ready to go under the car, sort of hoping that everything is fine with the differential, it feels quite odd when turned by hand.. Oh well, only one way to find out.

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Front suspension isn't far behind, only really need another good track control arm before I can bolt everything back together at that end aswell :)
 
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