I took some time to further disassemble the old 4AGE from the MR-2 (overheated engine). I took some photos during the process.
The surface rust spots are caused by water in the oil (due to head gasket failure):
By the way, the main (easily observable) damage I found from the overheating was that the pistons are seized on the piston pins. Meaning the pistons don't rock on the rods unless your force them to.
Anyway I finally bought the clutch master cylinder which I needed to be able to install the clutch pedal and complete the manual conversion.
I had to file out the holes by hand as I didn't have a large enough drill bit (for the center hole):
Three pedals, finally.
Before the engine blew I had taken the car for a safety inspection, everything was fine apart from it needing new tires. Instead of buying new tires I though I'd find a nice set of aftermarket wheels with tires (was already planning to do this at some point).
Just yesterday I picked up a set of ATS Type 5's from up north. They need a bit of restoration but I already knew this before buying them, seller was kind enough to send detailed pics etc.
Specs are:
15" x 7"
4 x 100PCD
ET30
57.1mm center bore.
Some center bore rings and they should be good. The tire aspect ratio is one size too small but what can you do, its hard to find the right tire size, with good tread..on wheels you like.
Also they are bridgestone's. I'll just change them once they wear out.
Installing the water pump, with new O-rings of course:
Torqued to spec give by the BGB:
Water pump inlet O-ring:
Inlet pipe:
There are quite a few misc. gaskets which needed to be replaced. I thought I would try to make my own using gasket paper which is supposedly designed for this purpose (from BNT).
Another one for the heater outlet:
Now when test fitting the bypass pipe with the ITB's there was a little problem:
As you can see circled in red, the water fitting and ITB adapter are very close and actually touching. If I recall correctly it wasn't allowing the adapter to mount up perfect to the head either:
There were also some issues of interference with the vacuum barbs, the gap between the bottom of adapter and top of pipe is less than it seems:
This one was minor:
So firstly I filed down the ITB adapter so that it could mount flush with the head and have a little clearance from the water fitting. It seems like not much, but this was enough:
Next I tried to bend the water pipe so that it wouldn't interfere with the vacuum barbs. It was easy to bend the last part to avoid the barb on cyl 4, but the other one was more difficult.
I found it difficult to bend it and keep the mounting holes in the right position, it also needed quite a bit of force since it was already bent into an S shape on that side so I couldn't do it while bolted into the engine.
So although I don't like it, this is what I ended up doing, cut off the pipe leaving a good length to attach some heater hose to.
I'm still not that pleased with it, will of course have to find a way to secure it and stop it from flying around.
I may find another pipe and try again, however, when I bent the pipe enough it had some stress marks on it seemed like it wouldn't be a good idea to use it.
The bend required looks a lot less in the pics. I tried using a shorter vacuum barb but there is not enough length with the pipe there directly under it.
--UPDATE: I'll probably try to use an angled vacuum barb and see if it works (I did try with a 90 degree but of course you have to spin it to get it in and it interferes with the front flange of the adapter).
Anyway engine bay has been cleaned and is almost ready:
That's about it for the progress.
I also spent some time cleaning up the garage which seems to get messy and chaotic too often. I happened to take a pic comparing the relative sizes of the auto vs. manual trans:
Auto on left: Manual one is not too difficult to pick up for me (I got stick arms), but the auto... no way.
Also here is a random shot/teaser of how the wheels look which I mentioned before. The tires are one aspect ratio too small which is creating more wheel gap, its just what the wheels came with though:
Interior is also back together after all the covers were removed from shifter/clutch pedal install:
Sorry for this post being a bit weird, I forgot to post updates here so this is just a collection of a few updates put together.