Ownership Verified: That time FinalGear bought a Munich Roadster (MX-5) to drive from Germany to Finland

Mitchi

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Oh. Let me guess. It looks like a temp gauge because someone switched the gauges out for red ones and it's labeled as a temp gauge. Very clever.

Or not...
 

public

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Oil's well that temps well :p
 

public

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Fired the frozen roadster up and spent a few hours driving around the frozen gravel roads. Found some nice places, but everything seemed to be a cul-de-sac eventually.
 

public

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Woooooo



ooooooo

oooo

 
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public

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The car is exceptionally good to drive on those frozen gravel roads. Took a drive to the archipelago, where there's nothing but forest, beaches and bibles and was able to really enjoy the best bits of the car. Shame there'll soon be snow.
 

Mitchi

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... I thought Finland isn't part of Scandinavia. :hmm: :p
 

public

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So technically, when some British presenters recently insisted using "Scandinavia" to refer to the very northernly place where they were, they weren't terribly wrong.
 

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New oils (Teboil Silver instead of Total Classic this time around), the ARB link finally done (isn't the steering just a little bit better now?) and a new alternator belt. These should carry the car to 200k, as long as the next MOT doesn't raise any issues.
 

public

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Cheap-as-chips door support bushings from CZ!
 

public

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Inspection passed with a muffler leak marked as a demerit. The Beni-Joe kludge on the cat is still holding well enough to keep the car road legal I guess :lol:

I've asked for replacement panel quotes, and I could get new aftermarket fenders for the car front and rear for less than 450 shipped. I'd have to put at least a grand into the car to fix the sheetmetal rust on it, and none of the repairs would really affect how the car drives... but I guess they're good for its longevity, and fixing its cosmetics would boost its value at least the same amount.
 

Lastsoul

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Yeah, underneath the surface rust and few dents is a fine car. It deservers those fixes!
 

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There probably is plenty, but the underbody has been sealed at some point so it's not naked, rusty sheetmetal. Of course the subframe is rusty too.
 

public

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The sheetmetal shituation in full:



















All of these should be able to be rectified with replacement panels that are commonly available.
 

public

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The guy who repainted bits of my 405 quoted ~1200 to get the car right, meaning tackling the rust and repainting both sides. This would help the car a lot, and I'll probably have him do it. He only has time from June on, so I have some time to accumulate a specific bodywork fund...
 

Polkky

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Yeah, that's very cheap. My rear fender fix cost something like 400? down here, so next time I'm also visiting your guy :D
 
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