Ownership Verified: The More-Door Fairlane, V2!


Active Member
Mar 18, 2008
Cedar City, UT
'90 Saab SPG, '84 K5 Blazer, '67 Fairlane 500
Well, as some may have seen, the previous iteration of my Fairlane has, more-or-less bit the dust. More about what happened to it can be seen here

This thread is about the replacement, which really, is just more of the same.
The short version is that it's a 1967 Ford Fairlane 4-door sedan.
Unlike my previous car though, its a base model, with a 289 V8, 3-on-the-tree manual transmission, bench seat, and it's a radio delete car.

The originality is fantastic, and there's no rust whatsoever. There are a few missing parts I will need to source, like a rear bumper and some tail-lights, but otherwise, it's a surprisingly complete car, considering how it looked when I first saw it.

The plan is that I will swap over the entire drivetrain from the V1 Fairlane, into V2. Additionally, the new interior parts I have for the V1 car will go into the V2 as well, as will several other bits and pieces.
Along the way, I will upgrade the front suspension and steering even further than I had done to the V1 car, add air conditioning, and finally, after years of wanting it, I will have the car painted Tahoe Turquoise.
and of course, the obligitory proof pic:

To back up to the start of the V2's story though, we have to go back to a few Thursday's ago.
I got the news that the OG car was going to be considered a total loss, and I was going to be receiving a check in the mail. That very night, I started the search in earnest for a replacement. I had done some light searching already, and had a couple candidates in mind, but there was one car on Facebook marketplace that seemed like a particularily good option:

The ad had been up for quite some time (since midsummer) but the price was in the range I wanted (and less than 1/5th the payout I was going to get), and despite clearly missing a few external pieces, what was left looked very promising.

I sent the guy a message, found out that the car was still available, asked some pointed questions about condition, and by the end of that Thursday, I had a verbal agreement on a price, and had scheduled to pick the car up from Prescott Valley, AZ first thing Saturday morning.

Friday afternoon after work, my dad drove down in his GMC Canyon with the car dolly,

and we set out for Arizona that night, planning on spending the night in Kingman.

Saturday morning, we arrived in Prescott valley, and the car was as good as I had hoped it would be.

As it turns out, the fenders and grill were basically just sitting there, not bolted on. The grill appears to be from this car originally, and is in decent condition.
The fenders on the other hand are NOT from this car (obviously) and while they are rust free, the passenger side fender has some dings and dents.

The engine bay looks very stock

The window is cracked pretty bad though:

Yay, factory 3rd pedal! I can ditch the janky aftermarket setup in V1 that is wore the hell out from being used as an actual car and not a racecar

Quite a few bits and pieces sitting inside the car (on that super fugly re-upholstered seat)

Looks straight from the back too:

The harbor freight moving blanket was a good thing to bring, enabling me to work on the car without getting super-duper filthy. (I was bolting the fenders on so that they were secure for transit)

I snapped this pic after we winched the car up onto the dolly.
I was under the car to pull out the driveshaft for transit, and wanted a shot of the sweet rust-free underside.
Also, note the exhaust, which appears to be factory still! just the first hint of the serious originality of this car.

Dad looking boss as we prepare to hit the road:

And the other side in the sun. You can see the passenger fender is a bit messed up near the door gap. I think its fixable though, and easier to fix than the rust on the V1's fender.

It's a long drive from Prescott valley to Cedar City via Las Vegas. We stopped every few hours to check on the car and ensure that it was still well secured.
This picture is from just north of Kingman, on highway 93:

We had left Prescott around noon AZ time, and arrived in Cedar City around 8:30 Utah time, for a total transit time including meals of 7.5 hours, having driven just under 430 miles.

TBC in my next post...


Active Member
Mar 18, 2008
Cedar City, UT
'90 Saab SPG, '84 K5 Blazer, '67 Fairlane 500
The next morning I took some walkaround pictures, and started investigating what I had a little deeper.

The fender is not attached properly, so I think it looks worse than it really is, but here's the worst of the passenger fender:

Engine looks filthy, but otherwise complete:

Missing the starter solenoid/relay, which is why I didn't attempt to start it in Prescott:

My starter cable on the V1 Fairlane definitely was not routed this way. I was pretty sure this is 100% original:

I later confirmed the originality, that starter cable still has the ford P/N printed on it! It's neat that they route it through a clamp on the motor mount. I think I will probably use a similar routing when I install the hot 302 in this car later.

Got the air cleaner off, and of course, the carb is still original. More surprising though is that the heat riser tube for the choke is not only still present, but still covered in the original insulation!

Original throttle linkage too. I had some parts of this for the V1 car, but I was missing a few pieces. It's neat to see how it was supposed to work though:

At this point, I started to empty the car out so I could take stock of what parts came with it.

This is the front bumper that came with it. Decent chrome, but its tweaked pretty good:

The pile:

I've got both headlight brackets, all 4 headlight buckets, 6 headlight trim rings, 2 high beam headlights, (sealed beams ofc) headlight trim for both sides, grill, extra radiator fan, a NEW radiator, extra horn ring, front bumper brackets, rear bumper brackets, all 4 hubcaps, and the sill panel that goes between the grill and the bumper.
Not pictured is the factory bumper jack with all associated parts, and the spare tire.

I also found some documentation in the glovebox, including a registration that expired in 2017, and a couple registrations expiring in 86, 85, and 84.

Of more interest was this:

which indicates that the car had 43078 miles in Oct 1983.

The car had 43525.6 miles when it arrived in front of my house 2 weeks ago.

Spoiler alert: When I got the car moving under its own power a few days ago, I proved that the speedometer and odometer not only still worked, but were relatively accurate too.

This car actually only has 43,500 miles on it, and it really has only driven 450 miles since 1983!

Over the course of the next week, I tinkered on the car a bit here and there.
First by reinstalling the driveshaft (and what a cluster that turned into. I ended up having to degrease, rebuild, and re-grease the end caps for the u-joint)
Then, I got the starter solenoid swapped over from V1, as well as the battery cables.
With battery power restored, I was able to check the wiring in the car, and verify that most things seemed to be working fine, though I was not successful at getting the car to turn over.
The starter was acting as if it was seized, even though I was able to turn the car over by hand with a wrench, proving that the engine spun freely. (yes, I spun it with the wrench before I tried the starter)

The next Saturday is when real progress started though. By that point, some of the parts I had ordered were starting to show up, and also, my dad came down to Cedar again to give me some stuff that he had been storing for me for a while (he needed the space back, hence the trip)

We started by swapping over the starter from the V1 car. This got the car cranking, so our next step was to run a compression test.
The compression test would kill two birds with one stone. First, knowing that all the holes have compression is generally a good thing. Second, the act of cranking the engine to check compression also causes the oil to circulate, priming the engine for a startup.

The oil in the car was a clean honey color, and there was evidence that the car had undergone a minor service in recent years, (tires were datecoded from 2016, we checked before we left)

Anyways, the results of the compression test ranged from 100 psi to 130 psi, which was plenty acceptable to me, so we rigged up a fuel system, roadkill style,

and attempted a start.

Now, it's not really as clear in the video as it was in person, but there was one hell of a clatter coming from the engine area. I didn't know what it was, so I didn't run the engine for very long that day, and at the end of the day, the starter just made spinny noises, and didn't actually turn over the engine at all.

As it turns out, borrowing the starter from the V1 car was actually an awful idea.

I had forgotten something very important.

Ford small blocks have two different teeth patterns. A 164, and a 157.

The V1 car with the T56 has a 157 tooth flywheel. I made a stink about it during the swap because it used to have a 164, like most manual trans ford engines.

Most manual trans ford engines, like the ones that's in the V2 car.

The rattle was the 157 tooth starter being unable to disengage from the 164 tooth flywheel.

Anyways, I ended up reinstalling the original starter a few days ago (Monday? Tuesday? I can't even remember now) and figuring out that the no-start issue with it was due to the starter cable not being up to the task anymore. (remember how I mentioned it was original? yeah, that's not actually a good thing)
Additionally, I also ordered a new ACDelco starter solenoid from Amazon, since as it turned out, my factory original starter solenoid from the V1 car is not up to the task of operating a direct drive starter anymore. (can you say, spark show?)

Back to last saturday though, Once my dad and I had the car started, we moved on to getting the fenders installed properly.

For transit, we had only installed them with 4 bolts each, and we didn't even attempt to line things up.

It took a few hours, but eventually we got them lined up enough that I am happy for now.

They also have a full complement of bolts now.

This post is getting long, so I'll leave it there for now.

The next one should cover last Sunday to now.


Active Member
Mar 18, 2008
Cedar City, UT
'90 Saab SPG, '84 K5 Blazer, '67 Fairlane 500
So, Sunday.

I was working by myself again, so the speed of work slowed down considerably, but I was still able to get quite a bit of progress done.

I started by installing tail-lights. I stole the passenger side light from the V1 car, and i had ordered another light from ebay 7 days prior, so those went in, and a set of LED 1157 bulbs from Superbright LED's went in also.

I also ordered replacement gaskets, lenses, and bezels for the taillights, but I'm going to sit on those for now. I'll install them when the car is closer to being actually done.

Next, most of the morning was spent playing with the starter, trying to figure out wtf went wrong. (discovering the tooth count thing in the process)
Once I knew what I had done to the starter, I dropped it, and moved on to the front end trim.

The headlight brackets went in first:

Followed by the valance sheet metal:

I then used many bad words and power tools, and removed the front bumper from the V1 car, since some of the supports were missing from the V2 car, and the V2's bumper was tweaked anyways.

the supports that were missing from the V2 car?
Turns out they are pretty much toast on the V1 car too:

I'll be able to use the ruined supports as a guideline to fab up some custom new ones later though.

Some time was spent messing around with the turn signals/parking lamps for a little while, with the intent of swapping the bulbs for LED's.
Unfortunately, my attempts were thwarted by the Utah corrosion, and I was unable to get one of the lenses off.

I will have to use more drastic measures later, but for now, since the incandescents still worked, I decided to just leave them for the time being.
I had to wire in some delphi weatherpack connectors to provide a disconnect for the lights, since the wires on the AZ car were cut, and there's no connector between the inner fender and the lights anyways, but I got it done, and it was all working, so I moved on to installing the bumper and the grill.

I also set the bezels in place to get an idea of how it would work, though I was not ready to final install them quite yet. I've got some plans for the headlights in the works, and didn't have all the parts yet.

Thus concludes Sunday's work.

My afternoons for the week since have been spent tinkering on minor stuff, getting a starter installed, doing some headlight wiring, and finally, completely draining the fuel out of the tank (which looked and smelled like it may well have been from 1985) and replacing with some ethanol free fuel so that I can run the car off the factory fuel system, and not the roadkill special.

Once I got the starter in, I was able to drive the car around a little bit. I do have some video to upload later that I will edit into this spot, but it's not quite ready yet.

In the meantime though, I was able to drive the car into my garage, and park it properly for the first time:

The V1 looks a little sad with its crumpled corner and missing bits, and the V2 similarly looks sad with the teeny little pizzacutter wheels, but the day will come with the V1 will go into storage, and the V2 will be all shiny and nice.

Anyways today, I took the car in to get the glass replaced:

and I noticed as I was securing the wheels that the drivers front wheel cylinder appears to have a little leak, which explains the fact that the brakes pull hard to the left.

The plans for the weekend are to first, pull all the drums and inspect everything, replacing whatever needs replaced.

Second, the horn and windshield wipers are the only electrical circuit that appear to not be working. I'm going to fix that.

Third, my headlight parts arrived, so I'll get the lights installed.

Fourth, if I have time, I will swap in the replacement radiator that came with the car, because the factory original one leaks very badly when the engine starts to warm up.

I'll leave off then with the following video that I filmed tonight.

It's in the garage, so it's not really evident, but this thing runs quiet.
It's so smooth too...


Active Member
Mar 18, 2008
Cedar City, UT
'90 Saab SPG, '84 K5 Blazer, '67 Fairlane 500
Well, it's been a few weeks, and so, time for another roundup status post.

As I mentioned in my previous post, the brakes were pulling very hard to the left, and as I was unloading the car after getting the glass replaced, I noticed signs that the drivers front drum had some kind of leak.

Since I wanted to inspect all 4 brakes, I started with the end that seemed like it would be easiest, and pulled the rear drums off.

To my relief, both rear drums were cobwebby, but otherwise looked great!
The drivers rear took some working to get the actual drum off, but once removed, it looked just as good as the passenger side.

That being said, I think the rear brakes were completely new, and had never been adjusted, as the shoes on both sides were miles away from being in contact with the drums.

Once I got both sides adjusted in, not only did the brake pedal feel much better, but the parking brake started to work too.

Moving on, I pulled the drivers front:

See the problem?

How about now?

There it is...

Yeah, that boot on the wheel cylinder is not supposed to be like that.

To make matters worse, once I removed the springs, and the shoes, I was able to see that some GDPO had deliberately punched a new hole in the boot, rather than using the existing hole for the pushrod. :wall:

This has been wrong since the day that wheel cylinder was installed, and everything showed about the same amount of corrosion and wear.
Sadly, the wheel cylinder itself was trashed beyond recovery.

New shoes and wheel cylinders for both front brakes, along with a frustrating time bleeding the front circuit solo, and I finally had great brakes.

With the mechanical issues sorted, I called it a day so that on Sunday, I could deal with the electrical crap.

Next on the task list was the non-op horn and windshield wipers.

For that task, my first point of investigation was of course to check the few pointless fuses that Ford deigned to install in cars in the 60's. I wasn't sure if any of the non-op circuits were on these fuses, but it's worth a check.

I found this:

I don't know how that happened, but I was certainly not expecting to see such terrible corrosion on a car that is otherwise more-or-less corrosion free.

All of the fuses turned out to be OK, but per my multi-meter, the contacts were not making adequate connection at all.

I used a combination of a screwdriver, pick, wire-brush, and some contact cleaner, and while nothing really looked much different, I was getting continuity from one contact to the other across the fuse at least.

Sadly, this did nothing to fix the horn or wipers.

Next,I manually applied voltage to the horns, to make sure they worked.

They did.

Then, I checked for voltage at the horn contacts in the wheel, and had nothing.
I traced down the wires into the connector at the column, and found that I did have voltage at that connector on the column side. Bridging the correct pins in the connector, and I was able to sound the horns, so the issue is 100% in the column.

I'm not going to dick around with the wires in the column because it's all going in the bin eventually anyways, so I rigged up a temporary momentary switch, and cable tied it to the column.

I've got a horn.

With that box checked, I moved on to the wipers.

Much like the horn, I first looked for voltage on the appropriate pins at the wiper motors. Only the contact that provided power for the wiper park function had voltage, so something was definitely bad with the switch.
Regardless, I also wanted to test the motor, and found that the ground on the motor was less than great.
I cleaned up the ground, but sadly, the test was a failure. The motor was dead.

Since the motor was definitively dead, I removed the cowl so that I could access the retaining clip on the linkage.

I'm glad I did...

It was seriously nasty in there.

The shop-vac made quick work of it though:

I was quite relieved to note that there was no rust under all that crap too.

I opened up the cowl on the UT car as well, since it was going to be donating it's functioning wiper motor to the AZ car, but I'd been in there before, and I knew there were no surprises.

Since I now had a known working (and tested in-situ) wiper motor in the AZ car, my focus moved to the switch...

I pulled the dash for better access, and found this:

Super, super dusty, dirty switch.

The two wire switch is for the washer pump, which was also not working. When I pulled the motor from the UT car, I also snagged the washer pump, fluid bag, and the rubber hoses to swap into the AZ car. After a few hits on the washer switch, it started working, which suggested to me that the internal contacts were probably so filthy that it was preventing the switch from working.

I used a liberal quantity of spray contact cleaner, as well as compressed air, and the wiper switch started working fine.

The final electrical task I had to do was the headlights.

Now, on the UT car I had rewired the headlights to not only be fused, but to be on relays. In addition, I had removed the appallingly shit sealed beam lights, and replaced them with Autopal housings that would accept H4 and H1 lights.

When I did this a few years ago, I quite liked the clear lenses on the Autopal lights, but times and tastes change, and I was ready for either a more traditional looking light, or for full-on modern LED's

Since high beam only 5.75" round LED lights still don't exist, and at this point likely never will AND since LED retrofit bulbs for H1 and H4 housings do exist, and appear to be reaching possibly acceptable levels of quality, I thought I'd give that route a chance.

So, I ordered up some Hella housings (since Autopal doesn't want to sell to Utah anymore apparently) and some cheap-ish SuperBrightLED H1 and H4 lights.

It was getting darker, (and more importantly cold) so no pics of either the housings or the bulbs, but the bulbs were of.. acceptable build quality.

The H4's actually were quite good really. They have a metal base, as well as a moderately sized aluminum passive heat-sink. The passive part was something I'm interested in, since these lights are not exactly protected from the elements in a '67 Fairlane.

I was slightly disappointed in the build quality of the H1's though, since while they used a similar heat-sink to the H4's, the H1 base is just a plastic sleeve over the H1 blade. The sleeve is looser than I like, but for now, I decided that it would do.

Without further ado, here's the beam pattern for the H4's on low only:

And then the whole lot on high beam:

The pattern is not... great but, it is significantly better than the sealed beams the car would have had, and for not having relays in the lighting circuit, the brightness is great.

Also, I had the cardboard considerably closer to the lights then I should have for checking pattern and aim, and in practice, the lights seem to work quite well.

All in all, it was a good weekend's work, and pretty much everything I wanted done got done.

The car was now ready for the DMV to open so that I could get tags.

Now there ended up being a bit of a rigamarole around getting the car registered, and long story short, I was not able to tag the car until the following Thursday, but it did get done:

I thought the vintage Utah plates would be a nice touch too :cool:

Of course, since the car is rolling on OE 14" rims, there was one last touch that it needed.

I dug the original dog-dish hubcaps that came with the UT car out of storage, and threw them on.
Also, bonus, the headlights and front trim is looking good :mrgreen:

Now, before I could really drive it, I had to replace the radiator, but I'll post about that project later, this post is already too long.


Well-Known Member
Jun 20, 2007
Southern UT, USA
1973 GMC Sprint, Buick 455/TH400; 1994 Jeep XJ 4.0
I've been considering a headlight swap for the Sprint as well but it only has a single light on each side, which makes it simpler.
I just swapped most of the rear lighting on my XJ for SuperBrightLED bulbs and they seem decent for that application.


Döner Kebab enthusiast
Jul 20, 2009
42 miles outside of Chicago
‘18 VW Golf GTI, '87 Mercury Colony Park
I simply added H4-H1’s to my wagon and that was enough of an upgrade over H4656’s awful DOT pattern. The H1’s are like coast guard search lights. :)


Active Member
Mar 18, 2008
Cedar City, UT
'90 Saab SPG, '84 K5 Blazer, '67 Fairlane 500
I've been considering a headlight swap for the Sprint as well but it only has a single light on each side, which makes it simpler.
I just swapped most of the rear lighting on my XJ for SuperBrightLED bulbs and they seem decent for that application.
I simply added H4-H1’s to my wagon and that was enough of an upgrade over H4656’s awful DOT pattern. The H1’s are like coast guard search lights. :)

Compared to sealed beams (which I still have on the K5) these LED bulbs in H4 and H1 housings are on the same scale of improvement as going from carburetor straight to full multiport EFI.

There's literally no comparison.

The only place the LED conversion looks bad is in comparison to modern OEM LED solutions, that often require multi-thousand dollar housings. The beam pattern is not quite as crisp as say, my Dad's 2014 E Class.

The beam pattern is also maybe not quite as nice as the H4/H1 halogens might be in the same housing, but it's at least 90% as good, for much less power draw.

I've driven the car a bit in the dark now, and I've not been flashed even once, so I'm pretty happy with my results.

Speaking of driving the car, as I mentioned in my last post, I had the car tagged and insured as of the 19th of November, but due to a very leaky radiator, I couldn't really drive it.

The next order of business then was to replace the Radiator.

Now, luckily, the car actually came with a new radiator that had never been installed. It was just a factory replacement, so nothing special, but it would do the job. I also had some radiator hoses on hand, just incase I had one fail on the other car, so if I needed them, I wouldn't even have to run to the store.

Getting the old Rad out was easy. It's just 4 bolts and two hoses. I was even able to recover most of the coolant that was in the thing.

The problems started when I tried to install the replacement.

Now that picture was taken when I was mid-way through fabricating the solution, but if you look at the flanges on the sides of the radiator, you can see that the new black radiator's flanges are about half the size of the old rusty junk.

The radiator that came with the Fairlane is in fact, a mustang radiator.

The core is the same size, and it is a V8 radiator, but it simply doesnt fit. It's too small.

So, using some scrap aluminium left over from my adventures with the UT fairlane, I quickly hand-fabbed up some brackets that would allow the mustang radiator to fit into the Fairlane brackets.

All in all, it only took a morning to do, and once the brackets were made, everything came together great.

I closely inspected the hoses that were on the car, and they passed muster (for now, it's only light duty use anyways) so I didn't even have to replace them.

of course, I only had 1 day before Thanksgiving that I could actually drive the car, but I was able to successfully commute to work without issue.

In the weeks since, I've put about 120 miles on the car, and everything seems to be running OK.

It's got some lifter clatter, I probably need to pull the valve covers and give it a good adjustment.

I also had some noises coming from the alternator, but with use, it has since quieted down considerably.
I've limited the car to just around-town runs. A couple trips to work or to wally-world, but no real long drives.

Overall, this thing is MINT though. It's got plenty of low down grunt, and it drives more-or-less like new.

Of course, new in 1967 is not really that all that great by modern standards :mrgreen:

It doesn't wander per-sey, but there's definitely less caster than I like. The manual steering is relatively easy with the 185 section tires, but it requires constant attention to keep the wheel pointed in the right direction at speed.

The ride is plush, but very boaty. I feel like I'm captaining a small to middling yacht at any speed over about 40.

For now, unless something breaks other than the heater core, which currently has a small leak, I'm done working on this thing.

I've got big, big plans for 2020 though. :cool:


Active Member
Mar 18, 2008
Cedar City, UT
'90 Saab SPG, '84 K5 Blazer, '67 Fairlane 500
Well, I figure I might as well throw a quick update in.

Basically, everything is going better than expected.
I've got a little over 300 miles on the car now. Strictly around town, occasional errands, but mostly commuting to work.

I still dont trust the mechanical fuel pump, and I think I need to adjust the valves since it's a bit clattery but otherwise, this thing runs awesome.

Starts on demand, and it's been very reliable so far.

The headlight switch is no good though. I have to hold it just right, or I've got no lights. A replacement is on the way.

The heater core still has a small leak, but I'm ignoring that for now. It'll sort itself out when I install the airconditioning.


Active Member
Mar 18, 2008
Cedar City, UT
'90 Saab SPG, '84 K5 Blazer, '67 Fairlane 500
So, I mentioned in one of the above posts that the Fairlane's got some lifter clatter. Last weekend, I popped the valve covers off to have a look-see.

The first thing I noticed is that this 289 is spotless.

I also quickly noticed that the pushrod for #5 exhaust looked brand new; the other 15 had clear signs of having been in there a long time.
All of the nuts holding the rockers on for #1 through 4 (the whole passenger side bank) looked new, but only exhaust #5 and intake/exhaust #8 on the drivers side bank had new nuts.

Someones been in here before.

Then I tried moving some rockers around...

...yeah. I think that qualifies as loose haha!

As it turned out, almost every single rocker had been tightened down to the point where there was just barely no preload at all. (a few were clearly much looser though)

If this engine had solid lifters, it would have been a bit on the tight side, but probably OK.

The only small block ford in 1967 to have solid lifters was the "K" code high performance engine.
This is not that.

I reset all the lifters with a conservative half-turn of preload, and this was the result:

Still making clickity-clacky noises :(

It's better than before, much better, but still noisy.

It's probably got some unhappy lifters, but there's nothing I am going to do about it. It'll live just fine until I manage to swap in the hot EFI motor later this year.

In other news, whilst messing around on the Fairlane, I also did a quick test on the distributor's vacuum advance canister.
I'm honestly not sure why I checked it, but check it I did, and a good thing I did. The vacuum can is 100% blown out. No vacuum at all, and the mechanism inside the dizzy is locked up too. I've got almost no mechanical advance, and instead of vacuum advance, I had a huge vacuum leak.

For now, I just capped the port on the carb, and am running with no vac. advance. I've got several distributors left over from the other Fairlane's build progression, none of which have points and all of which work, so I'll swap one of those in soon.

Finally, I replaced the headlight switch with a new one from Restoration Parts Source out of California.

The price was pretty good, and now I have reliable headlights again.

As a bonus, the new headlight switch fixed the non-op dash illumination, so now I get too look at that lovely soft green glow when I drive at night again:

I love my custom dash that I made for the other Fairlane, and it will be swapped into this new car along with the rest of the goodies, but I always did like the original illumination.