Ownership Verified: We can rebuild it... we have the technology (7 - take two)

Thanks, yeah, I think it would be. It looks to me like the leather is glued on, actually. If it will deteriorate, I will try to repeat the process, and if I end up removing too much material, then... could be a good excuse to get a new Model 26 one ;) I do think the D-shaped wheel looks more badass, but actually I prefer the round one.

Yeah, the leather has to be glued on, otherwise it would twist on the ring. I got mine reupholstered for 60 euro. Admittedly not suede, but it can't be that much more expensive.
 
When did you shoot that? At four minutes or so you're less than a kilometre from where I live. :D
 
No.

Audi+S2+2.jpg
 
Warning: Earphone hazard. Yeah. You need something else for sound. D:
 
Seems like a great camera for the money, after seeing your video i went out for a drive too and mounted a camera on my sunglasses. Now I'm so disappointed in the quality of mine. :p
A good microphone (+recorder?) would make it even more awesome, have you ever looked into one?
A recorder would be needed, this camera doesn't have external mic input unfortunately. Haven't looked into one, no.


Is it one of those keychain cameras? I had an HD one (#11 or something), but it broke down and I never bothered to replace it. The shape of the thing and the placement of buttons also makes it quite difficult to mount anywhere.

The locoblade is alive and well? Will we see either of you in a few weeks? ;) It still amazes me how hight you need to / can keep the revs... I would short shift it all the time.
 
Anyone knows a thing or two about ignition timing?

I've been playing around with MegaJolt again, finally got it running this time (albeit without a rev limiter, messed up the wiring on that one, have to re-do it a bit).
I will eventually get it on the dyno for fine tuning of course, but for now I want to get a feel of what's involved and play with a safe map.

What I gathered so far: more RPM = more advance, higher load = less advance. If I understood correctly, the first has to do with increased piston speed while the mixture burning time stays constant, and the second has to do with more efficient and faster burning at higher manifold pressure.

Here's one map I found for my engine. The load is estimated with a TPS rather than the MAP, 100 being the highest load. I'm puzzled about how advance goes up and then down with load increase. For loads 20%-100% the profile follows the rules, but for the lowest load the advance is reduced, what justifies that?


My stock distributor has a mechanical advance, no vacuum. I'm thinking about mapping its curve with a stroboscope gun and starting from there, taking clues from the map above.


EDIT: Found this method of adjusting the advance without a dyno:
The way I approach it is to start with a solid base map with areas of boost tending towards the retarded side. I then utilize a set of det-cans to listen for knock as I slowly increase timing while cruising in 4th gear(1:1). So do a pull-> slow down -> increase timing -> another pull & listen for knock -> Slow down -> Adjust timing -> Repeat.

Once I start to hear detonation, I pull timing anywhere from 2-7 degrees depending on how intense the knock is and where in the timing map I am (higher rpm/load or lower).
Sounds pretty brutal :) That's 100 runs times however many adjustments / cell is needed to find the detonation point. How is it done at the dyno then? I guess one can drive the load to a particular cell and slowly adjust them one by one. But what are the criteria? Detonation as well?
 
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Tried to measure the advance I'm getting from the distributor. It's pretty unstable, I'd say the values I got are +-2 degrees easily. But it gives a general idea. Peaks at about 37 deg, which is bang on with the map I found online (previous post). In fact, it matches pretty well the whole 100% load line, which sounds reasonable.



Still no luck with the hard rev limiter, damnit. Time is running out, I'm afraid I'll have to rely on the soft limiter, which simply retards the spark to 0 degress BTDC.
 
It's finally done and it's running on the map I posted above. It's very good! Everywhere below WOT the engine feels a lot smoother and responds quicker. Really makes it feel like a more modern engine. This map can't be too far off, and there's no time for dyno now, so I'll do it properly after the trip. This is better than distributor anyway!

Still no hard rev limiter, unfortunately, there's something wrong with it and I can't seem to be able to debug it. Basically it can't supply a load of the coilpack and the voltage drop is too much to sustain the spark. I'll have to live with the soft-limiter, which has an added bonus of the fuel burning up in the exhaust :)
 
Awesome! Can't wait to hear it :D

And how come your map ends at 6000, and the other one 7500?
 
Cool. but the main thing I took away from that is that I watch WAAAYYY too much english car shows. Didn't even notice the RHD driving until the carage bit... very unnerving.
 
Awesome! Can't wait to hear it :D

And how come your map ends at 6000, and the other one 7500?

The second "map" is what I measured from the distributor. I could only dare to keep the revs steady at 6k in the garage (it was already fucking loud), and the advance should already flatten out at that point. What I am actually using is the 3D map in the previous post.

Cool. but the main thing I took away from that is that I watch WAAAYYY too much english car shows. Didn't even notice the RHD driving until the carage bit... very unnerving.

I know what you mean :) I have caught myself thinking "that doesn't look right" when watching some LHD car review video for a brief moment before.
 
A recorder would be needed, this camera doesn't have external mic input unfortunately. Haven't looked into one, no.



Is it one of those keychain cameras? I had an HD one (#11 or something), but it broke down and I never bothered to replace it. The shape of the thing and the placement of buttons also makes it quite difficult to mount anywhere.


The locoblade is alive and well? Will we see either of you in a few weeks? ;) It still amazes me how hight you need to / can keep the revs... I would short shift it all the time.

Yes, one of those keychain cameras, i don't recall which model, but one with proper (ha) HD.


The car is good, learning to control it better and better, but the cycle wings are starting to break due to all the cones i'm hitting while slaloming. :p
Not sure if i'll join you guys in a few weeks, it's very busy at work.


BTW, good work on the ignition timing! For the Saab ECU's i always find that this is a good guide to understand mapping:
http://www.rossonex.com/SAAB/Trionic_5.pdf

Be very careful for knocks, that'll kill an engine.
 
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