Ownership Verified: rickhamilton620's sorta big red box! - 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport

What makes it a 'sport'?

Stolen from Wiki:


SE (base) - included: vinyl or cloth upholstery, full-faced steel wheels, and AM radio with two speakers.

Sport - included: cloth-and-vinyl upholstery, AM/FM radio with four speakers, full-faced steel or optional alloy wheels, optional infrared (single-button) (1988-1996) or radio frequency (dual-button) (1997-2001) keyless entry (if equipped with power locks), and an air conditioner.

Classic - included: monotone paint color, cloth upholstery, alloy wheels, AM/FM radio with cassette player and four speakers, infrared (dual-button) remote keyless entry, overhead console, and an air conditioner.

Country - included: two-tone paint similar to "Laredo" with upgraded color-keyed pinstripe and the option for "champagne" gold along with silver as accent options, the replacement of several interior, formerly chrome accents with flat black (Base and Sport models, as well, starting in 1993 model year), cloth-and-vinyl ("luggage fabric") upholstery with the option for leather (excluding 1993 model year), faux mahogany-wood interior accents, lace-spoke wheels, AM/FM radio with cassette player and four speakers with the option for six Jensen AccuSound speakers, optional overhead console (excluding 1993 model year), infrared (dual-button) (1993-1996) or radio frequency (dual-button) (1997) remote keyless entry (if equipped with power locks), optional dual power seats, and an air conditioner.
 
Somebody got :ninja:
 
Possible alloys, air con and keyless entry. Equal sportiness... Just like most Saturns? :p
 
rickhamilton620's sorta big red box! - 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport

Possible alloys, air con and keyless entry. Equal sportiness... Just like most Saturns? :p

No, the Sport was intended for those that intended to modify it and use it for what it was designed for - the sport of off-roading. It doesn't have a bunch of crap that you'd just be removing anyway.
 
Congrats on purchasing a cool red boxy thing. Hopefully it gives you less trouble than the Accord :)

Re: Headliner
Since somebody said it looks like being built out of Lego bricks, why not stick to the theme?

Yes yes all the yes! Its not wide enough to span the whole headliner though :( I was thinking maybe this, but its also too narrow.
This....this I might do... :cool:

So, has this car now vaulted to the top of Top Gayer's gay cars? :p

All kidding aside... Congratulations, Rick! You finally got a *good* car. I liked the Accord myself, but I neglected to remember it had the failmatic. THIS thing should take good care of you as long as you look after it.

BUT....

No, Rick. Just no. They're awful. That's not a criticism. This car interior isn't meant to be luggzurious... but don't call it pretty good!

Thanks! I liked the Accord too...the internet lore of "it's only the V6 cars that break the transmission" of this generation Accord proved to be just that, internet lore. When i dug deeper after buying, it turned out to affect all the cars, just the V6's a lot more and sooner.

I definitely plan to take good care of it.

my definition of pretty good isn't having tinker toy like plastics and poor attention to detail (see...current Nissan Versa). While the Jeep's not luxurious by any stretch, you won't hit your elbows on hard cheaply grained plastic either. The interior door handles are actual metal and feel solid in hand.

We decided to give the tradition to you to carry on, since you not only bought one enormous pile of crap, you then willingly went out and bought another of the exact same thing! :p

Carry the torch cap'n! carry the torch! :lol:

Here we go, Rick's favorite motoring show reviews the most luxurious version of his Jeep. Please note the 'luxury' interior variant...


...which isn't very luxurious after all. :p

:lol: I do like MotorWeek...I watched it mainly because beyond that and going to the auto show every year...that's what I got my car info from as a kid before home internet access was a thing.

You have got to get a real shifter knob :lol:

Otherwise, top marks! I really like the XJ.

If he gets the Hurst or B&M short shifter, it comes with a new shift knob. :D

I actually love this shifter knob. It adds "character." :clarkson:

I'm tempted to nominate my 405 the blizzard, or blaro's miata. still plenty of options around

Also: Congrats, Rick!

Thanks!

Congratulations, Rick! I think you should call it Clifford!

Thanks! Darn I wish I would have thought of that....would have made a more interesting thread title!

4.0L, 5 speed, 4WD, 120k miles...... I'm not sure there exist very many better Cherokees out there. I have two cousins who swear by these things and will own nothing else, apparently there is a lot to like :D

I'd also be curious to hear how it drives unmolested, I've never been in an older Jeep that wasn't ruined by a lift kit and large tires (yes that's you, CrzRsn :p)

The guy who bought my Honda actually said something similar. :nod:

So far I've taken it on the highway twice - out there it does well and is pretty smooth.

Bumps can be crashy but it's a truck so it's something I expect.

Steering I can't really comment on: there's a bit of a wander that requires corrections. As soon as I get this taken care of I'll have more accurate thoughts.

Good going on the 5 speed XJ. I've always liked these things, even if the shifter (at least on my dads NV3550 transmission) is one of the most lifeless shifters I've ever used.

Good luck with it and I hope it treats you well.

Thanks!

The sticker the original buyer paid the extra money for. :p

:lol:

From wiki

I hope that's one of the things where wiki's wrong? The RKE in particular - the two button infrared remote is user programmable through a series of ignition switch turns and remote clicks. The 1 button remote not so much. I could go aftermarket RF but I'd rather use what's there even if its inferior. :lol:

Possible alloys, air con and keyless entry. Equal sportiness... Just like most Saturns? :p

:lol:
 
I'd also be curious to hear how it drives unmolested, I've never been in an older Jeep that wasn't ruined by a lift kit and large tires
UNFORTUNATELY it is actually sitting on a 1 or 2 inch rear lift. Towing.

Rick, grab your VIN and email Jeep customer service asking for the original build sheet. Let's find out what this thing was born as. Chrysler has all those on record and has always been happy to provide.

Also, on the shifter throw.... It's quite lengthy. Starting off our of the guy's development, Rick went for 2nd gear (from 1st) and got as far as the neutral position. I looked over and I'm just like "Truck. Long throw. Down there."


And you should replace that torn shifter boot. It would have driven me insane by now.
 
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Apparently the system they copy/paste it out of doesn't copy line breaks. The last one I got, the rep clearly got bored with adding line breaks and it ended up looking like this:

ABC Widget Package A
ABD A/C Prep
ABE 10 1/2 inch drum brakes, rear
ABF 10 11 inch disc brakes, front
ABG Bench seatABH SomethingOrOtherABI etc.ABJ Stuff

:lol:
 
So, I could be over-thinking things but I've noticed that the car seems ever so slightly slow/struggling to crank as of late. This is also accompanied by a mild vibration+noise (i can look at my passenger seat and see it vibrate slightly) at idle until I've driven a few feet: Today it happened as i left work and by the time I reached the stop sign of the parking lot, it was fine. I did feel a shudder or two on a slight to moderate incline that I haven't felt before, but this didn't occur again over several other inclines I experience on my drive home, including a steep one I drove up to get to the grocery store. Power seemed just as plentiful as usual.

The slight slow crank/vibration happens even if i start the truck in Neutral and whether it's cold or warmed up from a drive. Temps seem fine- the needle staying at or slightly below the center 210 mark...at some points I've noticed it fall in between the center mark and the mark to the left of it but it never really deviates from this except when the car's been sitting off and it's warming up to 210 as I drive.

When it happened as I left work today, the tach didn't move past 0 RPM. Clearly the engine was running though and a tap of the gas caused the needle to move up and stay at around 1k RPM. Both times that I started the engine after this event today, the tach moved to ~1k per usual. The vibes/noise remained though until I started moving - by the time I reached the stop sign in the grocery store or convenience store parking lot to idle again...they were gone.

Here's some short videos I made today: note that for some reason, my phone has a slightly underwater sound to it or something. There's a definite roughness though. You may need to turn up your volume.

Rumble/vibration + 0 RPM on tach. I tried to capture the shifter moving but I don't know if I did a good job.


After tapping the accelerator once - gauge rises to 1k per normal and stays there but I don't notice a difference in engine note/vibes:


Startup after returning to the car in the grocery store parking lot (was out of the car for maybe 20 min max...just came from convenience store across street + this was taken after my commute home which was about 30 min):


And trying to capture the vibration after this startup:


I wasn't intentionally shaky, that was the vibration doing that.

I've done some forum reading and I plan on trying the "prime" test described here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/...fter-installing-catback-3010105/#post28288737 tomorrow morning to see if that helps identify the issue.

And here's a general video of the engine running after returning home (the washer bottle cap was off because I was adding fluid):


The sound for this one is completely jacked - it sounded totally "normal" IRL and vibration in idle was non-existent...I'd ignore the sound completely here.

And photos, for CrzRsn and others:

HAHYqDM.jpg


6E8fhJS.jpg


I know you do, but man if my Mazda's shifter didn't feel delicate and fingerlight when thinking of that behemoth :lol:

I guess I just have big hands. :dunno: :lol:

UNFORTUNATELY it is actually sitting on a 1 or 2 inch rear lift. Towing.

Rick, grab your VIN and email Jeep customer service asking for the original build sheet. Let's find out what this thing was born as. Chrysler has all those on record and has always been happy to provide.

Also, on the shifter throw.... It's quite lengthy. Starting off our of the guy's development, Rick went for 2nd gear (from 1st) and got as far as the neutral position. I looked over and I'm just like "Truck. Long throw. Down there."


And you should replace that torn shifter boot. It would have driven me insane by now.

I forgot that. I'll definitely email Chrysler with my VIN and post the results here. :lol: at my shifting fail...I did that again today, thought I broke something haha!


Awesome, thanks man!

Congrats man!

Thank ya!
 
1) Clean the throttle body and Idle Air Control valve to make sure it's idling at proper RPM. Check things like spark plugs as well, they can cause a poor idle if they're in need of replacing.

2) Low-RPM shaky vibes usually means shot motor mounts and transmission mount. Annoying but not super critical. Parts are cheap and it's a pretty easy change, if you're going to replace them do them all at once.
 
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I registered for Chrysler/Mopar Owner's Connect as I did something similar with the Accord and found out about a GM-esque ignition switch recall I needed done. While I couldn't find a way to manually add a car via VIN, I was able to run a "open recall campaign" check by VIN:

bhdWHOc.png


So I guess I need to take it to a Chrysler dealer one of these days.

Also, I found that I can get a Equipment Report via the "Customer Help" site: https://chrysler.custhelp.com/app/c...2LzMvdGltZS8xNDI2ODI3ODc0L3NpZC9Sa3luSExobQ==

It says it won't generate a listing for vehicles older than 1998, however I still got one. For the curious:

sURT2Da.jpg

DVHpEPe.jpg

jUcTCHt.jpg

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A1aXuqJ.jpg



1) Clean the throttle body and Idle Air Control valve to make sure it's idling at proper RPM. Check things like spark plugs as well, they can cause a poor idle if they're in need of replacing.

2) Low-RPM shaky vibes usually means shot motor mounts and transmission mount. Annoying but not super critical. Parts are cheap and it's a pretty easy change, if you're going to replace them do them all at once.

1: I'll check those out! Thanks!

2. I'll take a look at those too! The weird thing is though, once I've moved the car a short distance, the vibration goes away when stopped/idle. Wouldn't the vibrations come back when stopped (eg at a traffic light/stop sign, idling in a parking spot after driving) if the mounts were bad?
 
Check/clean the TB/IAC first - that's the first thing to do. I agree that mounts in theory should vibe equally in most situations, but it's possible that driving a bit is torquing them just enough to quiet the vibes. Check the easy/cheap things first, then start looking into the mounts if it's still shaking. You should be able to take a look at them and see what kind of condition they're in.
 
I actually love this shifter knob. It adds "character." :clarkson:

It also adds weight to the shift lever, which since this isn't a remote or cable shifter means that even when you're not shifting you're putting stress on the shift forks and possibly the synchros. So: "character" but "transmission rebuild" or "normal" but "not blowing up the transmission" - your call, man. Be a shame to see you ruin the thing so soon after you got it because of a stupid figurine.

Check/clean the TB/IAC first - that's the first thing to do. I agree that mounts in theory should vibe equally in most situations, but it's possible that driving a bit is torquing them just enough to quiet the vibes. Check the easy/cheap things first, then start looking into the mounts if it's still shaking. You should be able to take a look at them and see what kind of condition they're in.

On a lot of I6s, the left side mount disintegrates first from the engine pulling up on it when power is applied, so it's more than possible for uneven mount wear to happen.

The weird tach readings combined with vibration may indicate that your crankshaft position sensor is on the way out. There were a bunch of them from the mid 90s that went out around 100K on Chrysler and Mercedes vehicles. (IIRC, it was right when everyone started changing from variable reluctor sensors - simple, cheap, stupidly rugged - to Hall effect sensors which were more expensive, more precise, but not quite as everything-proof.) It is mounted on the bellhousing IIRC and is both easy and cheap to replace; you should probably do so as a preventative measure as it is both a known issue and tends to fail progressively while causing all sorts of weird running and later stalling issues. The TB and IAC should be checked and cleaned first in any case as I doubt that's ever been done - very much a commonly neglected thing on even some of the best maintained vehicles.

Because 1996 was a running-change year, you will need to stick your head under the car and find out if the CPS' electrical connector at the end of its pigtail is square or ovoid and buy the corresponding sensor. I suggest either a Mopar sensor or a Standard Motor Products one as those reportedly tend to be the most reliable in Jeep applications.

Don't forget, you still have yet to go through the standard ritual of replacing all the consumables (which you should soon - don't put off that coolant flush/change either!!!). This would consist of cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coolant hoses if they haven't been done lately, belt, oil, filter, gearbox and diff oil change, etc., etc. It could be something as simple as moisture getting into the distributor cap and getting boiled off.

- - - Updated - - -

Edit: Also, don't know if you saw this in your other thread, so recapitulating it here:

I kinda like my existing bumper. :dunno:

Your existing bumper is crappy stamped sheet metal that didn't have to meet the 2.5 let alone the 5.0mph impact standard.

http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/problems/studies/Bumper/Index.html

3) What are the Federal regulations for bumpers?

49 CFR Part 581, "The bumper standard," prescribes performance requirements for passenger cars in low-speed front and rear collisions. It applies to front and rear bumpers on passenger cars to prevent the damage to the car body and safety related equipment at barrier impact speeds of 2? mph across the full width and 1? mph on the corners.

This is equivalent to a 5 mph crash into a parked vehicle of the same weight. The standard requires protection in the region 16 to 20 inches above the road surface, and the manufacturer can provide the protection by any means it wants. For example, some vehicles do not have a solid bumper across the vehicle, but meet the standard by strategically placed bumper guards and corner guards.

4) Are all vehicle classes required to meet the Federal bumper standard?

No. The Federal bumper standard does not apply to vehicles other than passenger cars (i.e., sport utility vehicles (SUVs), minivans, or pickups trucks). The agency has chosen not to regulate bumper performance or elevation for these vehicle classes because of the potential compromise to the vehicle utility in operating on loading ramps and off road situations.

Just do eeet! :p


Seriously, that crappy bumper is just a bit thicker than your fender.
 
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It was snowing and laying on the ground today so I tried 4wd. I activated it at a pretty low speed, maybe 25 mph or so. The light came on and things seemed to go ok until I heard/felt a "pop". I figured maybe it was something engaging but when I heard it again a few minutes later, I wen't back to 2wd. :dunno:

It also adds weight to the shift lever, which since this isn't a remote or cable shifter means that even when you're not shifting you're putting stress on the shift forks and possibly the synchros. So: "character" but "transmission rebuild" or "normal" but "not blowing up the transmission" - your call, man. Be a shame to see you ruin the thing so soon after you got it because of a stupid figurine.



On a lot of I6s, the left side mount disintegrates first from the engine pulling up on it when power is applied, so it's more than possible for uneven mount wear to happen.

The weird tach readings combined with vibration may indicate that your crankshaft position sensor is on the way out. There were a bunch of them from the mid 90s that went out around 100K on Chrysler and Mercedes vehicles. (IIRC, it was right when everyone started changing from variable reluctor sensors - simple, cheap, stupidly rugged - to Hall effect sensors which were more expensive, more precise, but not quite as everything-proof.) It is mounted on the bellhousing IIRC and is both easy and cheap to replace; you should probably do so as a preventative measure as it is both a known issue and tends to fail progressively while causing all sorts of weird running and later stalling issues. The TB and IAC should be checked and cleaned first in any case as I doubt that's ever been done - very much a commonly neglected thing on even some of the best maintained vehicles.

Because 1996 was a running-change year, you will need to stick your head under the car and find out if the CPS' electrical connector at the end of its pigtail is square or ovoid and buy the corresponding sensor. I suggest either a Mopar sensor or a Standard Motor Products one as those reportedly tend to be the most reliable in Jeep applications.

Don't forget, you still have yet to go through the standard ritual of replacing all the consumables (which you should soon - don't put off that coolant flush/change either!!!). This would consist of cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coolant hoses if they haven't been done lately, belt, oil, filter, gearbox and diff oil change, etc., etc. It could be something as simple as moisture getting into the distributor cap and getting boiled off.

- - - Updated - - -

Edit: Also, don't know if you saw this in your other thread, so recapitulating it here:

Ok ok fine, factory knob will be ordered. :lol: You will see that guy somewhere else on the truck, just have to find a spot. :p

I'll start creating a spreadsheet of stuff I'll need to do. This will not only keep me on track but hopefully I'll feel a greater sense of satisfaction not only for doing (hopefully) a lot of the work myself but also the act of crossing it off of a list.

When you say belt, does the car have a timing belt? or are you referring to other belts on the car.

The CPS was something I also came across during googling. It'll be added to the list of things to change.

I'll go to Lowes tomorrow and check out that tool set...i predict i'll be giving it a lot of use. I also need to find a place other than a inclined muddy lawn (but closer than EyeMWing - ya know...just in case I can't make it there for whatever reason) to do any under car stuff on - the lot across from my house would be perfect, but they're a fire department so chances are, like any business parking lot, I'd be shooed away.

Edit: bumper - I'll look into purchasing it as well.
 
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Re: 4wd. If the Jeep is a part time system with a transfer case that locks the front axle to the driveshaft and without a centre diff, you have to be pretty careful with when and how you use it. You must only use it in low traction situations because the system needs wheel slip in order to not break anything. There are also usually speed limits when 4wd is engaged. I don't think I'd go over 80km/h really. Also while the car is capable of shifting into 4wd on the fly at pretty decent speeds, I still slow down and make sure the front wheels are straight before I do.

You will hear some clunks as things engage but they shouldn't really keep making those noises. Maybe check that the transfer case and front diff are properly topped up and the oil is ok in them. That's probsbly something I'd change anyway.
 
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Check/clean the TB/IAC first - that's the first thing to do. I agree that mounts in theory should vibe equally in most situations, but it's possible that driving a bit is torquing them just enough to quiet the vibes. Check the easy/cheap things first, then start looking into the mounts if it's still shaking. You should be able to take a look at them and see what kind of condition they're in.

Cleaning the TB/IAC did fuck all to my problems, but I blame that on Renix at this point. It was nasty how much carbon was on there. Clean that shit, Rick. Takes maybe an hour.

Re: 4wd. If the Jeep is a part time system with a transfer case that locks the front axle to the driveshaft and without a centre diff, you have to be pretty careful with when and how you use it. You must only use it in low traction situations because the system needs wheel slip in order to not break anything. There are also usually speed limits when 4wd is engaged. I don't think I'd go over 80km/h really. Also while the car is capable of shifting into 4wd on the fly at pretty decent speeds, I still slow down and make sure the front wheels are straight before I do.

You will hear some clunks as things engage but they shouldn't really keep making those noises. Maybe check that the transfer case and front diff are properly topped up and the oil is ok in them. That's probsbly something I'd change anyway.


Yes. It's got no center diff. You need to have wheel slip. I used mine up to around 100kph but not sure if I'd do that with a car I actually care about.

The AW4/NP242 is a generally stout combination for general driving. I'd check to see if you have records of fluid changes for them; I've heard horror stories about changing the TC fluid after many years of no maintenance it causing the TC to grenade. Not sure how true or false that might be.
 
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