This is something I typed up at another forum.
1. Warped Rotors:
There is only one way a rotor can warp and this is if there is uneven torque distribution across the hub. If you are experiencing pedal pulsation and have even torque distribution then your rotors have a build up of pad material. This is usually caused by improper bead in. Have the rotors turned and re-bead your brakes.
2. Big brake kits will help my car stop better:
This is usually not the case for two reasons. And most of the time your braking distance will increase. Most big brake kits are only for the front rotors. You might think that your rear rotors doing almost nothing, but you'd be wrong. The problem is that the pressure is not proportioned correctly from front to back. You need to get a kit for all four corners that is proportioned or a set with an adjustable proportioning valve. The other reason is that some kits include rotors that are meant for track use. This means that you will never be able to get them to operating temperature on the street and thus they will be ineffective.
3. Cross-drilling will help my car stop:
Cross-drilling is a marketing ploy. Cross-drilled rotors are a complete waste of money. Cross-drilling was created about 40 years ago in racing. It was created to combat out gassing. This was a problem that occurred when the pad would heat up and release a gas. This would cause the pad to float over the rotor. The drilled rotors allowed the gas to escape to the vanes and then dissipate. Fast forward to today. Out gassing was a pad problem, not a rotor problem and no modern pad should out gas. A lot of people confuse out gassing with fade or inflating flex lines. That is one reason you don't see any race cars using them anymore.
Now there are also problems with cross-drilled rotors.
3A. The have a tendency to crack and more so if they're actually drilled. Good cross-drilled rotors are cast that way.
3B. Unless you get bigger rotors you will increase your braking distance. Rotors are heat sinks. They are designed to convert mechanical energy into heat energy and dissipate it. Since you have removed material by drilling you have reduced how much heat the rotor can absorb. It will then transfer that heat to your pad, calipers, lines, and then fluid. Once the fluid boils you will get brake fade. Also, since you've removed material you have reduced the contact patch of the pad on the rotor, reducing it's effective friction surface. I understand the physics behind the whole cooling surface argument. While that is correct logic, that is hardly enough surface to make up for the other two issues.
3C. If you want to improve braking then I suggest you get slotted rotors. They will improve initial bite but they will chew up pads faster.
4. SS brake lines will improve my braking distance:
Stainless Steel flex lines will not make you car stop any faster. What they do is prevent them from inflating during braking which will cause your brake pedal to feel very mushy and can make your brake hard to modulate.
If you want a good formula for brakes for a street car then stick with some good vented blanks, SS flex lines (if your current lines are old or damaged), ATE super blue fluid, and some good pads.