The "Questions for Spectre" thread

I recently bought a 1996 xj6 VP after reading on here that Spectre and other on various Jaq websites agreed that the 95-97 xj6 is a dependable choice . Unfortunately the retired state cop that I purchased it from apparently pulled the check engine and trans bulbs out. So the paper from DMV states codes p1775,p0300,p1313,p0706 ,p705 were coming up . I replaced the missing bulbs and changed the plugs , took it thru again and now just p1775 , p0705 ,p0706 plus check engine and trans lights are showing. What do I try next , the car runs great and I love it.
 
I had pretty much given up on my series 3 after some crazy problems .Switched tanks at a red light and someone shouted that gas was pouring out by my wheel ect ect. But my son will be driving in less then a year and thinks it looks way cooler then the 96. I see that you have one of these cars so maybe it can be fixed to be a somewhat reliable .The first thing for now is that I cant open the driver side door ?
 
The sensor part showed up , but its not quite the plug and play I had hoped for . is it possible to get to the harness from inside the vehicle , the harness is not comming out of the hole from under the vehicle
 
Got it needs to be unplugged from inside the car by removing the console
In case any else has to do this .
 
Great news the transmission light is out after replacing the sensor /neutral switch . The check engine light is lit and showing the following codes now . p1775, p1138 ,p0159, po413 , this is right after replacing the switch without driving it at all.
 
It would be better if you put this in the thread you already set up for your problem.

P1775: Transmission Malfunction Light had been illuminated. (No surprise.)
P1138: O2 sensor is reporting the engine is running rich or the sensor has been disconnected.
P0159: The after-cat O2 sensor is reporting the engine is running rich or the sensor has been disconnected.
P0413: Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Open: There's a thread about that here: http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-xj6-xjr6-x300-26/odb-p0413-107247/

First thing I'd do is check my work and make sure I didn't disconnect the O2 sensors. Second thing I'd do is clear the codes and drive it 10 miles to see what it does.
 
Went back to my thread that I set up before I realized that you had a designated thread here.Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
 
Went back to my thread that I set up before I realized that you had a designated thread here.Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

Just for general information: If it's a long-running question or something that's going to go on for a while, it's better that there's a separate thread for it - easier for people searching the archives to find it and read it. This thread is mostly for quick-ish questions and answers.
 
96 Blazer trans into 99 Tahoe

96 Blazer trans into 99 Tahoe

Just for general information: If it's a long-running question or something that's going to go on for a while, it's better that there's a separate thread for it - easier for people searching the archives to find it and read it. This thread is mostly for quick-ish questions and answers.

Okay cool , I already feel greedy by asking several questions , but found a steal on a 99 Tahoe with a blown trans for a winter beater . Have already a low mile 96 trans and transfer case from a Blazer, due to an extremely foggy nite and the only traffic circle I've ever seen in MD . The eBay ect compatibility guides say it won't fit but why not ?
 
The 96 uses the last of the classic Small Block Chevies. The 99 uses the LSx based Chevy V8 and all it shares is the bore diameter and spacing. The crankshaft spigot (where you bolt the flywheel) is different, though. You will need a spacer (GM part 12563532) and six bolts (12563533), plus the flexplate from the LSx. That's to connect it mechanically. To connect it electrically may be a different matter - depending on what transfer case and case control option the 99 Tahoe has as well as what transmission it came with, it may not be able to control the transmission and t-case at all, or you may have to construct adapter harnesses.

Edit: Forgot - you will slightly have to elongate the holes for the torque converter on the flexplate or get a conversion LSx->LT flexplate. The LSx engines used a torque converter with a slightly different bolt spacing and the bolt holes are smaller and metric, whereas the LT engine was SAE.

- - - Updated - - -

That said, it's not your best option, really. Were I you, I'd sell the drivetrain I've got now on Craigslist or local forums, take the money from that and get the original transmission properly rebuilt on a bench. At this point, those transmissions' seals are knocking on the door of 20 years old and things will start failing, usually right after you finished installing it! You can get most of the 4 speed GM variants built cheap if you carry the transmission in yourself.

Example:
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/5377575867.html
 
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The 96 uses the last of the classic Small Block Chevies. The 99 uses the LSx based Chevy V8 and all it shares is the bore diameter and spacing. The crankshaft spigot (where you bolt the flywheel) is different, though. You will need a spacer (GM part 12563532) and six bolts (12563533), plus the flexplate from the LSx. That's to connect it mechanically. To connect it electrically may be a different matter - depending on what transfer case and case control option the 99 Tahoe has as well as what transmission it came with, it may not be able to control the transmission and t-case at all, or you may have to construct adapter harnesses.

Edit: Forgot - you will slightly have to elongate the holes for the torque converter on the flexplate or get a conversion LSx->LT flexplate. The LSx engines used a torque converter with a slightly different bolt spacing and the bolt holes are smaller and metric, whereas the LT engine was SAE.

- - - Updated - - -

That said, it's not your best option, really. Were I you, I'd sell the drivetrain I've got now on Craigslist or local forums, take the money from that and get the original transmission properly rebuilt on a bench. At this point, those transmissions' seals are knocking on the door of 20 years old and things will start failing, usually right after you finished installing it! You can get most of the 4 speed GM variants built cheap if you carry the transmission in yourself.

Example:
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/5377575867.html

Perfect , thanks ,finding car deals on craigslist is one of my favorite hobbies . Can you give me a year range of vehicles 2 or 4 wheel drive that my 96:blazer trans will fit in. I spent around 1800 to have it rebuilt ( never again will pull it and take it somewhere ,as you suggested ) I can't prove it has been rebuilt with 5000 miles on it .So rather buy something fun to put it in . When it comes to lAmerican manufacturers ,have always liked their larger rear wheel or 4 wheel drive cars better .Since many of their smaller vehicles seem like POS.
 
You are looking for any GMT400 truck. However, due to the long production run and many configurations, you *must* check to make sure the configuration (engine size/generation, transmission model, what transfer case type and control - electric or manual) is identical to make sure you can swap it in.

By the way - I've just been reminded, 99 is a sort of split year. There are some 99s that were built to the previous year spec, but there are some '99s' that are actually 2000s but got registered as 99s. If that 99 you were looking at is one of the older-spec 99s, it will have the LT type engine and you can probably swap your drivetrain in with the caveats listed in the above paragraph. If it's a 2000 masquerading as a 99, then it's an LSx based truck and my prior advice applies.
 
I recently took my 2006 Civic Si to the dealership to have an (unrelated) issue checked out and they stated that my clutch may need to be changed soon.

I'm not sure how serious I should take that recommendation, since I just had the car in for a major service a couple months ago and they stated then that the clutch was great and showed no signs of slip. This time they told me it was the engagement points on the pedal that they're basing their info on, but when I got the paperwork it said it was the weight of the clutch pedal that lead the tech to believe the clutch was showing signs of wear. And of course their quote for a replacement was twice that of other shops, like Aamco.

Personally everything feels fine to me, but I have to acknowledge the fact that any change would be too gradual for me to notice. The car does have 115k miles, mostly highway, so it's not unfeasible. What would your advice be?
 
Get a second opinion from another, unrelated dealership. Out-of-spec engagement points, slack and pedal effort *can* indicate that a clutch system needs servicing or replacement. However, the inconsistencies you note make me suspicious of their diagnosis.
 
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I bought a set of 20-ish Craftsman (made in USA) screwdrivers about 15 years ago, and I finally got around to opening the clamshell sealed packaging.

They smell like vomit. Seriously...I've been sick recently, and have the smell of vomit fresh in my mind...and these screwdrivers are 100% accurate.

Any ideas?

Is it the plastic that's breaking down? Is it some sort of oil on the metal that has gone rancid? If it's the former, there's probably no way to get rid of the smell, but if it's the later, I'm sure it can be cleaned off.

They are currently burried behind a ton of stuff so I don't have access to them, but I put them in a drawer, and left the drawer open for almost a week now, and the smell hasn't gone away.
 
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They the clear/translucent and red/blue handled ones?
 
Yes, most of what is on the bottom row:
7C242253-FB49-4859-A029-FE14E4C8D3ED_zpsvcw8wowl.jpg
 
Yup, classic acetate handles. They outgas as they age, so guess what happens if you leave them in a sealed container for years. :p
 
Oh, damn...that sucks, and totally makes sense. As soon as I read acetate, I toootally remember a day in freshman year of high school where we shaped screwdriver handles on a lathe. I was instantly taken back to that day, and the smell of the shop?.the smell of vomit.

After a bit of research, it seems like my options are:
- attempt to seal it in with some sort of plasti-dip or shellac
- it seems Sears will likely exchange them for newer, undoubtedly shittier, screwdrivers
- it seems Sears will likely exchange them for newer, undoubtedly shittier, screwdrivers, and then I'd sell them on Craigslst to recoup a few dollars, and buy something better.
 
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