So very tempted...

NEEDS AN LS1

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=341955

Thanks for your comments. To answer your questions; no cutting of the firewall was necessary but there are two small uni-body support projections sticking out of the firewall we did cut off. Small plates approx. twice the guage thickness are welded back in place.

Just like what you Firebird and Camaro guys do to lose front end weight and improve strength, we have a new chrome-moly, tubular K-member design (Ferguson Fabrication, where you saw pix) specifically for V8 Miatas with LS motors and Fords. Ferguson is a "Indy Car fabricator of the year", in the Indy-car "Hall of Fame", he worked on Breedlove's Spirit of America and has been on Jesse Jame's Monster Garage, the dude's really talented.

The new stand alone PCM and wiring harness came complete "Plug & Play" from Howard Performance (480 577-9413) in Arizona. Wired for diagnostics, the new high-flow Delphi MAF sensor Fan relays, fuel pump relays, fuse block, everything.

All the V8 Miata problems are SOLVED by these guys, you can buy just a K-member or any individual parts or, you can have Ferguson build your whole damn car. LS Motors, LS1, LS2, LS6 & LS7 come from Howard Performance as either "NEW" GM crate motors or low mileage "USED" packages with trannys, wiring harness, PCM, whatever your drivetrain needs. Howard's "Sick" LS motor package is a "NEW" LS2 GM crate motor stripped, built and blueprinted with the best of everything internals, twin-turboed using a Delphi MEFI IV ECM custom mapped to the engine making about 850 HP!!!!!!!!!

Anyway back to my Miata's specs, I run 215-40 ZR16 Kumhos all around (about 8.5 wide) and the overall finished car will weigh about 2190 Lbs.

Everything fits underhood, so it'll continue to be "dis-respected" as just another "girly-car" until I choose to drop the hammer. Weight balance is essentially the same as a stock Miata, so I'll still be able to turn inside Cobras, Porsches and Beemers, except NOW I'll be able to see them instantly shrink in my rear-view mirror.
 
A few more photos. mainly of engine and underside of car where accessible. These pictures are bigger than those previously posted. Sorry for the bother, but I'm hoping if somebody can tell me if this condition is typical of a car its age (and based in a northern climate).

http://img72.imageshack.**/img72/9053/dsc00119hh5.jpg
http://img238.imageshack.**/img238/8254/dsc00128jc8.jpg
http://img261.imageshack.**/img261/4153/dsc00126sz3.jpg
http://img238.imageshack.**/img238/2812/dsc00129km5.jpg
 
ChaosZ I'd use those rusty springs as a bargaining chip. There seems to be quite a bit of corrosion on the car, but then I'm in California where cars don't corrode so easily :D

torqueless said:
but...

ls1...
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... is not what everyone wants. My friend has an cammed LS1 RX-7. That thing is disturbingly fast, and while I wouldn't mind having one like his, I wouldn't want it in the Miata. The FC chassis can take the power better, it has stronger axles, diff, more room for rubber. The Miata is a momentum car, put the v8 in it and it's just another Shelby Cobra (which is fine for some folks).

200hp or less in these chassis is plenty. Go beyond that and the only reason why you'd be buying the car is because it shows you've come to terms with your sexuality, or you only care to go fast in a straight line. If I want a drag car there are far better places to start.

And yes, I'm sure you can maintain some semblance of handling with a high powered v8 miata, but it's definitely not going to be the same to drive as stock/near stock.
 
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Bargaining chip is fine, but is it a simple matter of swapping in new springs? How much can I get them to knock off for that? The corrosion concerns me, but unless it's been really babied, I think it's probably par for the course up in these climates.
 
FYI: check out miata.net They are a great group and can answer most any question you have. Also their buying guide is a must read before getting a miata. Though 6k seems high to me for a 91 miata. At least it would be down here. You may want to keep looking. There are a lot of miata's out there and with some perserverence you will find the right one.
 
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ChaoZ said:
Bargaining chip is fine, but is it a simple matter of swapping in new springs? How much can I get them to knock off for that? The corrosion concerns me, but unless it's been really babied, I think it's probably par for the course up in these climates.
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I'd sign up on miata.net forums and post those pics. AFAIK the springs aren't to hart to swap, but if you're interesting in doing a coilover setup anyway, it may not matter too much.

What I would do is ask to take it to a mechanic of your choosing to look at it, find out what it would cost to fix some of that stuff and then have them knock as much of that as you can off the price.
 
thedguy said:
I'd sign up on miata.net forums and post those pics. AFAIK the springs aren't to hart to swap, but if you're interesting in doing a coilover setup anyway, it may not matter too much.

What I would do is ask to take it to a mechanic of your choosing to look at it, find out what it would cost to fix some of that stuff and then have them knock as much of that as you can off the price.
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Done and done. A guy on the Miata.net forums was kind enough to offer to look over the car for me, and he's a technician.
 
Be wary with no maintenance history. Maintenance isn't that costly but it's still a sports car and parts are more expensive then most normal automobiles. Timing belt needs changed every 60,000 miles, that costs around $750 to $1,250. A new top can cost $500 and then $750 to install it. With no history I'd talk him down to $5,000. Plus you'll need a daily driver for the winter.

Otherwise they are amazingly fun cars and you'll be completely satisfied with it.
 
I will try to talk them down, at least down to $6K all inclusive (taxes, reg etc.). They just recently dropped the price from $6500 to $6000
 
Alas it was not to be.
The guy I went with found some serious problems with the car, mostly attributed to its age and some measure of neglect.

The rear right spring was broken. (moderate cost)
All the shocks were shot. (moderate cost)
The water pump and timing belt appear to not have been changed. (major cost)
The brake rotors had some moderate grooves. (minor cost)
Signs of (poorly) repaired damage at front right fender at the wheel well. (moderate cost)
Alignment bolts appear seized, indicating neglect in alignment (pain in the ass more than a big cost)

All in all, it was ok for a restoration car in the right hands, but the level of difficulty and cost to have it done outside is way over my budget. If it was just the suspension problem, it would've been okay since I planned to change all the parts anyway.

The search continues...
 
ChaoZ said:
Alas it was not to be.
The guy I went with found some serious problems with the car, mostly attributed to its age and some measure of neglect.

The rear right spring was broken. (moderate cost)
All the shocks were shot. (moderate cost)
The water pump and timing belt appear to not have been changed. (major cost)
The brake rotors had some moderate grooves. (minor cost)
Signs of (poorly) repaired damage at front right fender at the wheel well. (moderate cost)
Alignment bolts appear seized, indicating neglect in alignment (pain in the ass more than a big cost)

All in all, it was ok for a restoration car in the right hands, but the level of difficulty and cost to have it done outside is way over my budget. If it was just the suspension problem, it would've been okay since I planned to change all the parts anyway.

The search continues...
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good...

you want a 1994+ miata. 1.8L BP >>>>>>>>>>> 1.6L B6. If for some reason you end up with a 1.6L of the 1990-1991 vintage make sure you get it checked for the dreaded crank wobble (way way more common on my car but still happens on some miatas).
 
The short crank problem was only in 1990 and half of 1991 cars.
That said, I think you're right about seeking out a 1.8 instead of the 1.6. Now I'm going to start seeking a 1996 or 1997 model. It'll cost more unfortunately, but if I time it for September, there should be more cars on the market.
 
The 1.8's also got more chassis bracing as well. The newer you can get (up to and including 1999) the better really.

Good luck on the hunt.
 
thedguy said:
The 1.8's also got more chassis bracing as well. The newer you can get (up to and including 1999) the better really.

Good luck on the hunt.
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Yes but they do feel different to drive. The NB feels like a boat compared to the NA.

Its a nice boat feeling though
 
You should buy it in a rush and worry about the repair costs later. trust me
 
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