The "New Toys" Thread

There's much more controversy regarding tech and non-tech purchases afoot! Apparently this was too tech-y for the other thread. :p

https://pic.armedcats.net/i/ic/icebone/2011/01/22/_ICE0102.jpg

It's a 44" 55lb composite bow capable of 205 feet/s arrow speed. I tried catching the arrow just as it was released, but no luck...



:(

EDIT: I have dubbed it Nock Breaker as it has already broken the nocks on all the arrows (probably cheap-ass ones) I got with it. >_<
 
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Well, I just ordered these for EXACTLY the same amount of money as I gave for the bow:

lg_44.jpg


419596_M1.jpg


3395155394_4638207439.jpg


5x
https://pic.armedcats.net/i/ic/icebone/2011/01/22/70060.jpg

3x (to attempt to fix the broken ones)
detail_3204_240x116.jpg
 
No, it's how you are holding the string and arrow. No, really, you're doing it wrong.
 
You don't, necessarily. The way I was taught (as a starting technique) was to grip the arrow and use it to draw and hold the string. The reason your nocks are shattering is because you're ending up with a space between the nock base and the string. When you release, the string leaps forward through the gap and smacks the nock, causing shock damage. If it were seated, it would simply launch the arrow.

In this style, if you're doing it right, your hand doesn't touch the string at all at full draw. Of course, if you do it wrong, you can get mislaunches, so make sure nobody's down range while you're learning. :p Once you've mastered actually seating your arrows, you can then go on to the Mediterranean (which is what you appear to be attempting here) or Asian (my preference) release techniques. :p
 
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Does that include the nock that broke the instant I put it against the string?

From e-how.com:

4 Grip the string with your index finger above the arrow, and the middle and ring finger should be below. The string should meet your fingers at the first knuckle just beyond the fingernail.

Read more: How to draw back a compound bow properly | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4456735_draw-back-compound-bow-properly.html#ixzz060ynZW9v

But that's irrelevant now since I'll be getting a nocking point and manual release.
 
A manual release solves the problem quite nicely. No, it doesn't include that one clearly defective one, but usually if you're shattering nocks you're just doing it wrong. :p
 
Do that even after learning? Else remind me to never visit Slovenistan :lol:

Well, apparently there's two Slovenians who are willing to take up archery with someone standing downrange with a camera.... :p

That said, I think I'd avoid 'Slovenistan' anyway. Supposedly the deer are vicious. :p
 
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I used quite a zoom lens and was well out of the way.

I don't get how there can be a gap behind the nock. If you grip it below and above it, the string will bend around your fingers and travel vertically past/through the nock and take it along, when you pull it back. A nocking point does the same, just provides you with a different anchor point and the release enables you to pull with your wrist, not your finger tips, which makes it easier.
 
I'm just going to jump in about the nock stuff, you've probably just got the wrong sized nocks for your string. Unlike Spectre I was taught that you don't put any finger pressure on the arrow while drawing, two fingers on the string on either side and draw back, release your fingers to shoot. Ideally, the nock is the right size and doesn't move about the string at all once clipped, so when you release there is no movement inside the nock and it therefore doesn't shatter. Of course, I was taught all of his from my parents, who make their own arrows from scratch, use custom longbows (not the cheating recurves with their fancy draw weight reduction wheels and sights and counter weights :lol:) and kill moose and elk with them, so take what I say with that in mind. Plus it's been since junior high school since I've done any competition shooting, so maybe I'm out of date.
 
You should be able to nock the arrow and it hangs from the string if you point it towards the ground un-drawn. I was taught to draw the string back, not the arrow. Pay attention on the flight of your arrow as it leaves the bow, you should be able to see if it releases cleanly. Looking at your handhold Ice, it looks like you have to much 'finger' around the string but I'm not sure in where in the release you are. I tend to let the string roll off the finger and have never used a 'release'.
And splitting your own arrow is possible, and rather easy :)
 
Somewhat late (as those in #gear will attest), but here's what i got for Christmas...ordered on the 26th after a rather worse argument with my Sagem Phailrouter:

For mah phone - 2GB was feeling cramped lately:
https://pic.armedcats.net/z/ze/zedestructor/2011/01/25/16GB_MicroSDHC.jpg
Mum needed anew drive, so I got a dock and gave her my old enclosure:
https://pic.armedcats.net/z/ze/zedestructor/2011/01/25/Dock.jpg
Some ethanol (alcohol) at 90% purity mum got me from office :p:
https://pic.armedcats.net/z/ze/zedestructor/2011/01/25/Ethanol-90.jpg
Logitech G500. 'nuff said:
https://pic.armedcats.net/z/ze/zedestructor/2011/01/25/G500.jpg
Replacement for the Sagem piece of crap (overdue by two years), Netgear WNDR3700:
https://pic.armedcats.net/z/ze/zedestructor/2011/01/25/WNDR3700.jpg
Since I was buying stuff - Xbox360 Wired Controller:
https://pic.armedcats.net/z/ze/zedestructor/2011/01/25/X360_Controller.jpg
 
Oh, hardware counts as toy? Well, i recently build a "ghettoserver", as they like to call it in #gear. I took parts i had, bought some parts cheap and used and new ones.

Result:
- Chieftec Mesh LCX with 3x80mm/1x120mm fans (cheap used)
- BeQuiet 400W (used, came with the Tower)
- 160GB WD IDE for Windows + IDE-DVD-Rom (had)
- Asus P5G41C-M LX Board with all onboard (new)
- Intel C2D E6600 (had)
- 2x 4GB DDR3 1333 (new)
- Samsung 2TB drive (new)

So far i've moved all series and stuff, and ofc 15 seasons of Top Gear on it. Still nut sure what other purpose its going to have, but we'll see ;). Sidenote: the 2TB-drive was planned anyways, but for the gaming-rig.
 
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