Okay fine, what's a good cheap RWD car then?

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Viper007Bond

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2008 Dodge Viper, 2006 MB CLS55 AMG
Previously: http://forums.finalgear.com/questio...for-wanting-a-muscle-car-as-my-2nd-car-48077/


So if I were to buy a RWD car, what would you suggest? Cheap is good because I wouldn't want to tie up too much money incase I decide to not sell it before I get a Viper, but I also would want to be able to possibly resell it at not a huge loss.

And before anyone suggests it, I'm not a big fan of the Miata idea. I'm into chicks, not dudes. :p
 
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You could probably get a Mustang of any generation for fairly cheap. Since you'll be moving up to a Viper eventually, might as well get something that's also torquey and RWD, but less of a handful.
 
Yeah - Mustangs are cheap. If you get one of the Fox-body or related SN95 generation, the best thing you can do to make it start handling instead of flopping around is to have full-length subframe connectors installed. They're really cheap and they make an enormous difference in how the car handles, rides and reacts. I recommend Maximum Motorsports' line of products (satisfied driver, no financial connection.)

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/s...id=585&zenid=ae7a753e68daa4fc7af621f289a7a2c5

This includes the Mustang Cobras, which came with subframe connectors, albeit weak and short ones on the back only, IIRC.

The other fix that should be applied is a four point front K-member brace:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=122_125

You'd be surprised at how solid the flexi-flyer Fox and semi-flexy SN95 gets with those modifications. They're huge improvements that can be applied for cheap. Convertibles will need additional bracing, say that of a real roll cage.

If you wish to improve it as your capabilities and skills grow, you can - because the Mustang has literally the largest performance aftermarket of any car in the world, bar none. The handling can be improved further (quite a lot further) as can the brakes.

Best of all, once they're over the initial depreciation slump, they don't actually depreciate much more. They hold their value fairly well after they get to be about 8 years old, so you can sell it out for about what you have in it. If you wreck it, chances are good that you will survive (Mustang GTs get wrecked a lot but rarely kill their operators) and nobody will care too much about the car because there's millions more out there just like it.

Here are some examples in your local area.
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/2503345145.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/ctd/2502156870.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/grg/ctd/2455930543.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2491369855.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/2496071882.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/2494367193.html


Mustangs are cheeeeeep.
 
2004-2006 Pontiac GTO? Can go upwards of $15k, and 400hp might still be a handful, but...I like 'em :p
 
Not a bad choice, though due to the GM killing Pontiac thing parts cost and availability can be an issue if you prang it.
 
What was the Sierra called over at your side of the pond? I quite like it, and it should be very cheap indeed.

EDIT: It was called the Merkur XR4Ti and it looks like it was not sold in significant numbers. Too bad.
 
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What was the Sierra called over at your side of the pond? I quite like it, and it should be very cheap indeed.

EDIT: It was called the Merkur XR4Ti and it looks like it was not sold in significant numbers. Too bad.

The Merkur XR4Ti. However, they were re-engined with the turbo Thunderbird engine, sold very poorly and as some of the local members can attest, don't actually hold up very well. I don't think we actually have a currently running example among the few people that have an XR4Ti on this forum, last I looked. So they were rare and unpopular to start and that hasn't improved with time.

Edit: The whopping 145 horsepower it came with didn't help either.
 
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I'm shopping for a RWD vehicle as well and I've been finding 1998-2002 Mustang GT's and V8 Fbodies for less than $10k with mileage around 65-85k.

If you don't care for those one of the best cheap reliable RWD cars in history is a P71 Crown Vic. 2005-2008 models with 60-85k run $5-8k. I loved mine. You can powerslide with 1 finger and you right foot. Very controllable as well. In my opinion a better way to learn how to control a RWD car. Plus they are even more tough than Mustangs in case you stuff it.

Don't want that? Buy a 300ZX.
 
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I second (third?) the SN95 or New Edge mustang idea. My roommate has a 98 GT 5speed which I've driven and it is a hoot. It may only have 225 hp but it has a lot of torque and the manual gearbox make it a lot of fun.
 
Boss, get comfortable with your sexuality, test drive all the other suggestions then drive a Miata. More reliable, better mpg, very forgiving handling and a ragtop to boot.
 
I can't wait until I have the means to travel to the states, buy a car for cheap and drive back. Add 5 grand to every mustang on Spectre's list (and add some terrible climate issues too) and you pretty much have my market for used cars. Still thankfully a great bargain in comparison to buying new but it's aways also worth my while to get a car somewhere else.

Anyway, when it comes to good cheap RWD cars I'm in the same situation as Viper, all except I don't think I'll be able to afford a viper any time soon and I'm looking at unique but reasonable long time good cars that I could consider owning. As an in-between type of car I'd seriously say mustang. Obviously the ones available for cheapish aren't gonna provide a high quality all around motoring experience right out of the box but it will certainly get you used to the kind of driving the viper provides, albeit toned down a notce or three.
 
Boss, get comfortable with your sexuality, test drive all the other suggestions then drive a Miata. More reliable, better mpg, very forgiving handling and a ragtop to boot.

Let's see, anti-Miata rant in...3...2...1...

Slow and great handling vs fast and good handling. Oh and cheaper to buy, cheaper to modify and even better makes a much more pleasing noise. Mustang for the win. Plus, he already stated no for the MX-5. It's his thread, follow his rules. :D
 
Yeah - Mustangs are cheap. If you get one of the Fox-body or related SN95 generation, the best thing you can do to make it start handling instead of flopping around is to have full-length subframe connectors installed. They're really cheap and they make an enormous difference in how the car handles, rides and reacts. I recommend Maximum Motorsports' line of products (satisfied driver, no financial connection.)

I can't say I'm a huge fan of that body style, but they are damn cheap and I bet parts are cheap too. Plus as you said cars of that age are pretty much done depreciating so I'm not likely to lose much money.

This sounds like a good plan.

Boss, get comfortable with your sexuality, test drive all the other suggestions then drive a Miata. More reliable, better mpg, very forgiving handling and a ragtop to boot.

I don't really care about MPG. It's a nice bonus, but I don't put enough miles on cars to worry about it (no commute). Plus gas ain't that expensive (about 0.617 GBP/liter right now).

I guess in the right color with the right mods it can look less girly (the green one):

 
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Let's see, anti-Miata rant in...3...2...1...

Slow and great handling vs fast and good handling. Oh and cheaper to buy, cheaper to modify and even better makes a much more pleasing noise. Mustang for the win. Plus, he already stated no for the MX-5. It's his thread, follow his rules. :D

Er, no! :p

I was just suggesting he try an MX-5 and make a judgment totally on merit rather than dismiss it out of hand for reasons of image. `
 
Parts for Mustangs are stupid cheap. I use several for my Megasquirt conversion work simply because they're often the cheapest option and most widely available.

Another point is that as your skills improve, you can easily and cheaply bolt on power adders, suspension upgrades, brake upgrades and the like until the Mustang is pretty close in performance and handling capability to the stock Viper. If you want to spend more cash, you can make a Mustang much faster in any given scenario than a stock Viper, for less than a Viper. Something to think about. You can upgrade the Mustang in stages as you improve so that the car keeps up with you and the eventual transition to the Viper will be seamless as you'll be coming from a near-equivalent car. You can't reasonably do that with a Miata - while you can get the handling up, real power upgrades require real cubic dollars. And engine swaps.

It should be mentioned that a gently driven stock SN95 4.6L Mustang GT with a stick can get into the mid-20s for fuel economy. Not too far off the Miata's 30mpg. Fuel economy isn't a gigantic problem (well, until you start modifying it - power requires fuel - but even then, staying out of the throttle can get you decent mileage).
 
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Hate to say it but the man has a point. If you are a bit of a spanner monkey at heart then this would be the way to go.

Naturally being a Miata driver and more concerned about hair product and the like I leave ruining my nails to that lovely man at the garage in the dreamy blue overalls. :wub:
 
Hate to say it but the man has a point. If you are a bit of a spanner monkey at heart then this would be the way to go.

I'm not really to be honest. I'd rather pay someone to work on my car then do it myself.
 
Still works out well even if you don't work on it yourself. Everyone and their brother has a Mustang, everyone knows how to work on them, and since it's such a commodity, specialists don't dominate the sector (along with specialist pricing.) Mustangs are deliberately designed to be easy to service, repair and upgrade, so labor costs are going to be minimal.

Put it to you this way - some two-toothed hick in the back woods of West Virginia's Appalachians with a distillation hobby can properly service and upgrade the thing. Can't say that about too many other cars.
 
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Maybe a mid-late nineties Porsche Boxster? RWD, fair amount of power, won't rip your face off as easily as a viper. Not the cheapest thing to get but compared to buying a Viper, I'd say its cheap enough.
 
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Maybe a mid-late nineties Porsche Boxster? RWD, fair amount of power, won't rip your face off as easily as a viper.

Mid engine means it won't act like a Viper, Porsche parts prices are stupid expensive, Porsche service is extortionate, have fun with the insurance, can't really upgrade without cubic kilodollars, and people want stupid money for them most of the time (if they're not broken, which most of them are.)

Edit: Forgot - step one for pretty much any significant maintenance on the car? Remove engine. The ones that don't require engine removal require disassembly of much of the rear of the car.

Case in point: http://www.germanpartsonline.com/porsche-articles/porsche-boxster-water-pump-replacement/

Remember, all that is happening while you're paying, oh, $100-150 per hour to either the dealer or a Porsche specialist.

Mustang? Open hood. Drain coolant. Detension and remove belt. Remove water pump. Clean flange. Install pump. Reinstall belt. Refill with coolant. Close hood. Done by the time the Porsche specialist is still dismantling the rear wall of the passenger compartment to even get to the engine.

Edit 2: RockAuto.com and Pelicanparts.com is the source for this.

2000 Mustang GT water pump, genuine Ford Motorcraft: $88.79
2000 Mustang GT water pump, Gates aftermarket replacement: $48.79.
2000 Boxster 2.7L water pump, genuine Porsche, mail order discount: $369.50. Does not include gasket. Replacing the thermostat with a much lower temperature one is recommended to avoid the common overheating issues. A kit with everything you need? That'll be $432.45 and will require downgrading from Porsche genuine/OE parts to a Laso pump and an unspecified German-make thermostat.
2000 Boxster 2.7L water pump, cheaper aftermarket replacement: $145.79.

So much for that as a cheap car.
 
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