So, what has been lately? Absolutely fuck all other than driving it once or twice a week to keep the battery charged, and fluids moving. A couple weeks ago I drove down to Chicago for funsies and got some BBQ from a lovely place I go (Smoque) when on jobs in the city.
I really need to get the shakes figured out. It’s really hard to describe as it’s not super rhythmic but like something is either out of balance sometimes or worn out suspension bushings like I can feel every little imperfection. What I can say, it is not cured with speed. Over 75mph it is always there and only gets worse when you hit 85. I replaced the u-joints which did cure the growl over 70mph but caused a growl when over 75 and not on throttle. So it is possible the driveshaft is fucked because I struggle with things like u-joints and bearing installs. I really do think it’s best to suck it up and let a shop diagnose this. I had a shop do the coolant gaskets and timing chain + cover gasket and that’s been flawless. Meanwhile, I do shocks which admittedly has been ok except for the rear passenger blowing out every time I lower it off the jack despite being gentle. Front calipers were changed after seizing one but I had trouble getting the crush washers to seal and I probably should have replaced the flex hoses. I did replace rotors as you should, but those are the “pick bearings in” type and I always feel like I do this wrong. Which I am guessing could be part of this shake issue. I tried doing rear drums but had such a problem with that it’s made me hate this car ever since. That job made me feel so insufficient in auto repair.
I have a hitch receiver on the back but I am scared to use it for anything heavy as it’s held in by grade 8 bolts but I have no washers to spread out to force and the holes for mounting are shall we say, *just* enough to grab toe bolt edge that I really don’t want to use it until that’s fixed. I don’t know how to fix that as a whole hitch receiver kit has the correct wires to pull bolts through a washer, but not available separately.
At the moment, the front windshield leaks on the drivers side and drips right on the power windows switch. The rear window leaks from decayed weather stripping and is very wobbly from the rear tailgate being taken apart by the PO to replace the window motor. I also found out recently why half the rear window won’t defog...
And oh by the way, the starter either needs a new positive wiring and connector, or the whole starter is jacked because hot starts sound like the battery is weak, it’s not because I replaced it February 2019.
Alternator has been upgraded to a 3G style designed for a 98 mustang. I used a Painless Performance wiring loom for a Fox body and is verified to charge. So at least it won’t cause a fire like the old design possibly could do.
I have wheels on from
@CraigB and some boring Uniroyal tires which are very nice however the front bearing dust covers stick out so far that I can’t use the center caps. According to the tire shop, I would need 5/16” wheel spacers which means the lug nuts are not long enough, I tried. Since the studs are built onto the brake rotor, I don’t think it’s smart to do any sort of longer studs or spacers with studs on them.
Not sure what else but I feel like that’s all. It’s overwhelming with all that it needs. I’d much prefer a newer or different vehicle with less things to do. My current situation and honestly my feelings on so many things mean I really just don’t want to deal with maintaining a toy for now. Maybe when the lease ends on the Golf, I’ll pay more attention to this.