NotLaw
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2008
- Messages
- 498
- Location
- Cedar City, UT
- Car(s)
- '90 Saab SPG, '84 K5 Blazer, '67 Fairlane 500
It'll run soon. I have since determined that the TFI system is in fact functioning by pulling the dizzy out of the engine, and spinning it by hand with the ignition turned on. I do get spark, and the fuel pump runs appropriately, however, I am not seeing spark at lower speeds, so it's possible that my OE style starter, combined with the 4 year old battery and sub-freezing temps is just not spinning the engine up fast enough (it's only spinning at between 100 and 150 RPM under cranking right now). More diagnostics and testing is required.
Still, despite the fact that I have not heard it even cough yet, and I only hit the later of my two target dates, I am optimistic that I will get it to fire up this week, and it'll be ready for test driving by Christmas. It's going to be a trial by fire for the car and the EFI system, since I intend to drive it the 200 miles up to my parents place for Christmas.
I'll also note that except for yesterday, the last day of working on the car, I had no help whatsoever doing this; it was a solo design, install, and fabrication. My father did stop by yesterday to help me finish up the last of the wiring, as well as to help reinstall a the handful of fasteners that are very difficult to install without two people.
The throttle cable is also an appallingly awful, roadkill-esque jerry-rig that I am shamed that even exists, let alone is on my car, and that I might even be driving with. ughh. it's going to work, but I hate it, and I can't wait to come up with a solution that's at least slightly less rigged. (currently? Well, lets just say that tie-wire/baling wire is involved, and it is not pretty)
Dr. Grip, it is indeed a Holley EFI system, with the ECU mounted inside the car behind the dash. So far, the ECU seems to be functioning as expected, but I need to dig into the datalogs to really see everything that's going on for that side. I also need to verify the pinout for the fuel pressure transducer from the firewall plug to the ECU, before I start trying to figure out why the ECU is not seeing any fuel pressure, despite the fact that I clearly have pressure (I cracked a line open and made a mess. It's got pressure)
If I get to a point where I can verify that I do have an ECU or tune issue, I'll be sure to hit you up for help.
So far though, I've really been liking the Holley software. There's a great deal of control available there...
Bone: the hoseclamps on the spring tower support are because the support is a home-made piece made from the draglink of a Jeep XJ, and the length can be tweaked slightly to spread or pull the spring towers. The adjustability is really just to make it easier to install and remove, since it mounts to studs on the spring-hats (i should have just welded nuts to the underside). The hose clamps squeeze down on the ends, and stop the bar from being able to spin on the threads.
I should replace those with a proper means of locking down the threads, but its been hose clamps for the last several years, and I've never had them loosen up, so I haven't bothered.
The P-Clamps (also called cushion clamps) on the support used to be used to support the engine wiring harness, but now that it's routed differently, one of those sets is no longer used, and the other is being used to support the air intake tube. It's maybe not the best solution for the intake tube, but that intake is not really in the best place anyways, and it will change when I eventually do the shaker intake later anyways, so the P-clamp support will do for now.
Still, despite the fact that I have not heard it even cough yet, and I only hit the later of my two target dates, I am optimistic that I will get it to fire up this week, and it'll be ready for test driving by Christmas. It's going to be a trial by fire for the car and the EFI system, since I intend to drive it the 200 miles up to my parents place for Christmas.
I'll also note that except for yesterday, the last day of working on the car, I had no help whatsoever doing this; it was a solo design, install, and fabrication. My father did stop by yesterday to help me finish up the last of the wiring, as well as to help reinstall a the handful of fasteners that are very difficult to install without two people.
The throttle cable is also an appallingly awful, roadkill-esque jerry-rig that I am shamed that even exists, let alone is on my car, and that I might even be driving with. ughh. it's going to work, but I hate it, and I can't wait to come up with a solution that's at least slightly less rigged. (currently? Well, lets just say that tie-wire/baling wire is involved, and it is not pretty)
Dr. Grip, it is indeed a Holley EFI system, with the ECU mounted inside the car behind the dash. So far, the ECU seems to be functioning as expected, but I need to dig into the datalogs to really see everything that's going on for that side. I also need to verify the pinout for the fuel pressure transducer from the firewall plug to the ECU, before I start trying to figure out why the ECU is not seeing any fuel pressure, despite the fact that I clearly have pressure (I cracked a line open and made a mess. It's got pressure)
If I get to a point where I can verify that I do have an ECU or tune issue, I'll be sure to hit you up for help.
So far though, I've really been liking the Holley software. There's a great deal of control available there...
Bone: the hoseclamps on the spring tower support are because the support is a home-made piece made from the draglink of a Jeep XJ, and the length can be tweaked slightly to spread or pull the spring towers. The adjustability is really just to make it easier to install and remove, since it mounts to studs on the spring-hats (i should have just welded nuts to the underside). The hose clamps squeeze down on the ends, and stop the bar from being able to spin on the threads.
I should replace those with a proper means of locking down the threads, but its been hose clamps for the last several years, and I've never had them loosen up, so I haven't bothered.
The P-Clamps (also called cushion clamps) on the support used to be used to support the engine wiring harness, but now that it's routed differently, one of those sets is no longer used, and the other is being used to support the air intake tube. It's maybe not the best solution for the intake tube, but that intake is not really in the best place anyways, and it will change when I eventually do the shaker intake later anyways, so the P-clamp support will do for now.