Ownership Verified: 1989 Ford Bronco

I didn't say I wasn't going to install bright rear facing lights on the truck. I'm just not convinced I want them on the bumper, as it'd be really easy to get them accidentally damaged or destroyed down there.

Mounted a bit higher on the truck, though... well, I do have this HID flood light I've been storing in my closet for a few years now...
 
Spectre said:
I didn't say I wasn't going to install bright rear facing lights on the truck. I'm just not convinced I want them on the bumper, as it'd be really easy to get them accidentally damaged or destroyed down there.

Mounted a bit higher on the truck, though... well, I do have this HID flood light I've been storing in my closet for a few years now...
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Gotcha.
 
Cellos88GT said:
Oh yeah, I'm aware of the "shitty" 5.0s thrown in the Broncos. The explorer setup is the way to go, I actually pulled heads and an intake from an '01 car that I found in the JY that had ~190k on it. I was actually pretty impressed at how clean it all was (the block actually looked to be in pretty good shape). Unfortunately, I still haven't had the time to have them cleaned up, rebuilt, and modified for the emissions crap so that I can install them. However, I may be able to this summer.
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Thing is, I want to make 300-350hp and 350-400ft-lbs at the crank, and I would really like to have something better than the original AOD-no-E trans behind it. I can get that power with an Exploder engine by changing the roller cam out and installing an exhaust plus tuning, and the Exploder can provide a 4R70W as well. I don't even have to modify the mounts and my speedometer sender is on the transfer case.
 
Spectre said:
Thing is, I want to make 300-350hp and 350-400ft-lbs at the crank, and I would really like to have something better than the original AOD-no-E trans behind it. I can get that power with an Exploder engine by changing the roller cam out and installing an exhaust plus tuning, and the Exploder can provide a 4R70W as well. I don't even have to modify the mounts and my speedometer sender is on the transfer case.
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If you plan to change the cam, make sure you upgrade the valvesprings on those GT40P heads: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-2500100 A cam, some longtubes, a tune, and 1.6 ratio rockers should get you to the lower end of your HP goals.
 
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Spectre said:
Thing is, I want to make 300-350hp and 350-400ft-lbs at the crank, and I would really like to have something better than the original AOD-no-E trans behind it. I can get that power with an Exploder engine by changing the roller cam out and installing an exhaust plus tuning, and the Exploder can provide a 4R70W as well. I don't even have to modify the mounts and my speedometer sender is on the transfer case.
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And the AOD's shift points are so strange. 1-2 immediately to 3. Uh uh! Ooooooooooo.
 
Cellos88GT said:
If you plan to change the cam, make sure you upgrade the valvesprings on those GT40P heads: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-2500100 A cam, some longtubes, a tune, and 1.6 ratio rockers should get you to the lower end of your HP goals.
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Yeah, I read about the weak valve springs. Because of the way the Bronco was constructed, long tube headers can be a problem to fit.

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CraigB said:
Learn the D-1 shuffle.
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I would rather learn the 4R70W independent shift map and locking torque converter. :p
 
CraigB said:
Learn the D-1 shuffle.
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Having learned how easy it is to crack the tail housing, I don't dare to do much that could shock the transmission.
 
Just got word my bumper and new tire carrier/swingarm are done. Guy says he likes how my modification plan/design worked out; should have pictures tomorrow.
 
So, this is what I started with - a salvaged vintage Ranch Hand or Ranch Hand clone bumper. Same idea in either case - 4.5" structural pipe with stuff welded onto it. This was a 9-10" drop bumper that someone had torched out the bottom center to accommodate a frame mounted receiver hitch (which RH did not offer as a bolt on option back then - they do now.)



And this is what it looks like now, after it's been modified to my specs. :D







Next stop, sandblasting and paint.

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The things on top of the bumper step/diamond plate are brackets for someone else's project. This shows the receiver hitch I had welded on and how much of the drop I had clipped.

 
Hub/spindle for the swing arm? I've seen that done a few times, seems to work well but keep an eye on it. Some guys have had the spindle snap off as that's a lot of leverage on it from the swingout, especially with a heavy tire. Any welding done to the spindle doesn't help the heat treatment either.
 
I hadn't heard that but I was thinking of adding additional supports to the bumper or the arm as I added stuff to it, to reduce the stress in the most common position it will live in, closed. May also want to see about some sort of safety chain too, I guess.

That's a Dana 44 hub/spindle assembly off a scrapped Bronco - can be a source of emergency parts if I break a lockout. A lot of people building these tire carriers use trailer spindle assemblies from what I've seen and I thought I'd go one better (and cheaper). To keep the stress down, the tire mounting plate is as close to the pivot as I can get and still clear a 36" tire (giving myself extra clearance for 35s if I go there). Accessories are going to be added from the pivot side outward as possible to reduce leverage.

The lights I'm putting on the bumper arrived today. Bit bigger than I thought they'd be, but they should work okay.
 
One problem I've had since I bought the truck is consistent small oil seepage off the valve covers. Since you have to take the upper manifold off to pull the valve covers off on the EFI 302s, I mostly just lived with it. Now that I have the intake off, I could look get a good look at the valve covers - and it seems someone's been in there before. The stock covers are thin stamped steel and it's very easy to warp or distort them so they never seal properly again; I'm very much not a fan of the cheap tinny stock valve covers on most classic American V8s. Unfortunately, the previous mechanic seems to have distorted them by overtorquing. They evidently decided to 'fix' it by using double gaskets and RTV.

So, not being a fan of the E-Z-Warp baking tins that shipped with this 302, I went looking for replacements. I managed to score these factory aftermarket cast aluminum covers for cheap off Craigslist - this is a stock photo:

vc4_1.2340.jpg


That should neatly take care of the problem. I'm not a fan of the Ford Racing logo cast into them, but I won't have to look at it once they're installed.
 
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LOL, EZ Warp Baking Tins... Humor and truth! :D
 
I finally got the cracked intake off and was greeted by crusty but wet oil deposits. (Pics are clickable for larger versions.) I did clean the intake off as best I could before removing it, but there's dirt and oily crud that fell off it I'll have to vacuum out. No masses of gelled oil sludge but not pretty. I don't remember the Fox body Mustangs' 5.0s I've played with being this nasty.







Interestingly, the inside of the intake ports and the entire inside of the bad intake manifold were coated with a film of motor oil and the evidence that it's been doing that for quite a while. This engine has less than 120K on it; I guess I've been spoiled by playing with Japanese and Jaguar engines more than older domestic designs in recent years, but this is absolutely filthy by my standards. Maybe a PCV issue or too light an oil? Fortunately I don't have to clean this intake up - it will be stripped of sensors and fittings then taken to be recycled.









Just have to finish removing the broken off bolt in the head (in the center of this pic) and then I can begin cleaning and reassembling the engine, I think. Normally I'd take this as a sign I should tear the whole thing down but it doesn't have to last too many more years.



Edit: Before anyone says that I haven't taken care of the thing, I've had it less than 9,000 miles and I've changed the oil every 3500 miles with the heavier of the factory recommended oil weights, quality oil with Ford filters, etc., etc.
 
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I think that is from letting the oil change interval slide a bit too much, and then throw in some Texas heat to finish it off.

I wonder how that Texas heat treats the 4.6 mod engine? That is where my truck spent most of it's life.
 
GRtak said:
I think that is from letting the oil change interval slide a bit too much, and then throw in some Texas heat to finish it off.
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Actually, it hasn't lived in Texas very long, less than 4 years and less than 15K miles. Before that it belonged to the University of Virginia and as best I can tell it was last used (for several years) on their agricultural extension in Florida. Legally I'm the third owner and got it from the guy that bought it from the University.

I wonder how that Texas heat treats the 4.6 mod engine? That is where my truck spent most of it's life.
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The 4.6 Modulars seem to do just fine down here. The older ones have the same timing chain tensioner/guide issues that all of them have, but they don't seem all that prone to sludging unless you just don't bother taking care of it.

I don't remember any of the Fox body Mustang 5.0 engines I've taken apart or worked on being nearly this bad, even some where people went 20K+ between oil changes. I'd expect an official university truck to get at least semi-regular servicing, but then again it was a university...

Edit: I'm most surprised by the amount of oil inside the intake passages themselves.
 
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