Someone Else's Problem: 1994 Land Rover Discovery ES

I'm honestly not sure how a misaligned spring could throw your drag link out of whack. Are you sure you didn't bend something, or strip the drag link adjuster?

I'm not sure either, it would've pushed the body over at an angle but I'm not sure how that would've affected the steering. Nothing is bent or stripped in the steering gear so I'm assuming either one of the linkages between the column and the steering box slipped (not sure what is splined and what isn't) or something happened inside the steering box. The vague feeling is still there and could indicate wear in the steering box.

They had a Disco on Wheeler Dealers with steering box wear, Edd explains it here:

http://youtu.be/j15jDorfFfk?t=11m7s

Not something I want to get involved with yet, I'm just glad the steering wheel is the right way up. :lol:
 
Hmm, even with a misplaced spring and a bit of body lean the track bar should keep the suspension and steering geometry the same on a 5-link - certainly in no way should it cause enough change to invert the steering wheel.

All connections between wheel and box should be splined (or at least keyed), I'd be hugely surprised if they weren't. I think you should be taking a close look at your PS box and your drag link. That's not something you want failing on you at speed.
 
Now is the beginning of something I shall call Road To Trip 2015 - all the shit that I need to get done before the Discovery is fit to leave the country on a jaunt to the land of beer and sausages.

The list of planned jobs is nothing particularly new - it's all been mentioned before as I've wanted to take this thing roadtripping for years. However before I can start that I will have to get one important thing fixed, that's the steering.

Since I had problems it has slowly been getting worse, and it's apparent that the power steering box is the thing at fault here. Fair enough, it's 20 years old and has been on the truck for something like 225,000 miles so i can't be too annoyed that it has finally decided to die. There is almost more slack in it that I used to have on the Series 3 and as KaJuN will tell you that's no small thing.

I will have to get the box replaced, how much it's going to cost me is currently unknown. New ones come in at about ?350 but my local specialists may have a good used unit that can fit for me. Either way they will be doing the fitting, as Edd said in the Wheeler Dealers clip it's heavy and not a nice job. I'm also going to see if they can do a few more jobs for me while they have it.

Once that is done I will start deciding which anti-roll bars to buy. For the trip to and around the 'ring I really want them, this thing wobbles around at the moment and while on normal journeys it's not a problem I really don't want it on the twisties in the Black Forest or on the track. Currently in the lead for the rear is an unlockable ARB that I will keep on permanently, it's slightly more expensive than a normal heavy-duty bar but I'll be able to benefit from it at all times on the road, only unlocking it for off road use. I don't have as much choice for the front, a normal heavy-duty item will go on and then be removed once the trip is over.

This is what will be going on the rear:

Fitted%20Full%20Small.jpg
 
Discovery has gone on a little holiday to the local LR people to have the steering box replaced. A replacement is on order but won't be here until next week, apparently these things are quite hard to get hold of at the moment. It also needs a wheel bearing at the same time, will have the read mounts for the fuel tank guard sorted and the pump re-optimised.

It's going to cost me a bomb. Oh well.
 
Keely's a dirty girl and she seems to like it, but sometimes a proper clean is necessary, so yesterday she was relatively pampered with a jet wash, actually including soap this time. Everywhere was hit with high pressure foam to try and loosen some of the salt, then blasted away with water. The underside was more important but since I was there with a pocket full of pound coins I did the bodywork too, so you can see all the scratches, dents and mossing paint. The engine even got hit with hot foam and then a rinse down.

The only problem is that I dislodged some of the stickers on the window...

Also driving great with the replacement steering box. :)
 
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All's well with the new steering bits?

Yes, just remembered to go back and add that. Much nicer to drive now I know where the wheels are pointing. Still no sports car with the mud tyres but much nicer, a pleasure to drive again. :D
 
Keely came out to play today in the sun! Potato photo because my camera was inside, my house key is on Bugsy's keyring and that was locked in the house.



I still had one important outstanding job to do - stop the rear axle leaking oil and spraying it all over the offside wheel. That didn't take long, I expected the old gasket to be ruined but instead I found that there wasn't one! Don't know why but there is now. It's strange driving a diesel manual after the V8 auto, throttle pedal is much heavier and there is of course the shifter to deal with. Only took me a minute to get back in the groove though. I also forgot how loud the diesel is.
 
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Went to take part in another 'orienteering' punch hunt challenge today, came third and picked up some more damage. I really need to think of a way to stop myself busting indicators, I think the solution might either be a tubular bumper or an entire tubular front end. I'm not so worried about either looking a bit ugly now Keely is kept for this purpose.

Edit: Potato picture of the trophy:

 
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So while I wait for my V8 to be sorted I decided to get the broken exhaust off the D1 so I can buy another. Oh yes, I forgot to mention, the exhaust broke on the way home from the competition mentioned above.

Well there's your problem...
View attachment 3434095

The main part came out easily enough as once I had detached it from the centre exhaust pipe there was nothing to hold it in place. Break clearly visible.
2015-06-14 15.26.26_S.jpg

The corresponding part once it was unbolted from the manifold. This can be risky business as the bolts are usually seized in place through heat and rust, sometimes causing the studs in the manifold to break. That is of course if you can get the leverage to turn the nuts and you don't round them off. Luckily for me they weren't too tight, they've been off 3 times before when I swapped the turbo twice and fitted the replacement engine in 2012.
2015-06-14 15.43.54_S.jpg

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This gasket shows that something probably hasn't been right for a while.
2015-06-14 15.44.00_S.jpg

As you can expect this was a perfectly clean job
2015-06-14 15.43.42_S.jpg

All the bits now sitting in the back waiting for a replacement downpipe. The middle section never was welded up, it just sits between the two ends of the centre exhaust which have hangers and are obviously attached to the rest of the system. I really need to buy a little welder and get it done.
2015-06-14 15.47.23_S.jpg

While I was there I also re-assessed the damage to the front right corner...
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Very little has changed with Keely since the last post, but at the weekend I had the chance to inspect the damage properly, along with getting the exhaust back together.





As you can see the bumper was pushed right back, so far that it has crushed the frame for the headlight and thrown the adjuster out of whack.

The bumper was sorted with a bit of V8 power.



I just need to decide what to do with the front panel. It might be OK but really should change it, a replacement is fairly cheap. I'm tempted to get a welder and learn now.
 
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Welding isn't about a welding. It's mostly about getting prepared, firefighting and consequences liquidation :)

Also... VeeUightPaWaaaaaaaaaaaaH :cool:
 
Welding isn't about a welding. It's mostly about getting prepared, firefighting and consequences liquidation :)

I'll get some fire extinguishers. :lol:

Turns out that I'll probably get away with leaving it like that anyway, tweaked the headlight adjuster last weekend and the light looks like it fits OK, just had a box of parts arrive today to finish it all off. Maybe I'll get it back together this weekend. :)
 
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Woah, I haven't checked this in quite some time, didn't even notice that you dented it...

what exactly do you wanna weld there? The headlight frame?
 
Woah, I haven't checked this in quite some time, didn't even notice that you dented it...

what exactly do you wanna weld there? The headlight frame?

If needed I would remove the whole headlight frame and replace it with a replacement one that isn't all bent up. :D

Fingers crossed it'll be OK though if the headlight is pointing in the right direction.
 
If needed I would remove the whole headlight frame and replace it with a replacement one that isn't all bent up. :D

Fingers crossed it'll be OK though if the headlight is pointing in the right direction.

That's quite a task :p

I wouldn't reccomend it if you're just starting with welding, I still havent mastered it, the welds I did on my W124 are quite shitty upon closer inspection.

But that frame of yours should be easy to hammer back into shape :)

Just my two cents...
 
I'm tempted to get a welder and learn now.

My ?0,02: get a used quality welder instead of a new supermarket-grade crapbox. You can always find parts for a quality machine, and they usually run so much nicer and smoother than the cheap ones. The latter is important especially if you're new. Experienced welders can do acceptable welds with cheap gear.
 
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