1996 xj6 with codes coming up

Yeah, the sensors on it are going to be in similar condition as is anything rubber on it. Might be a good source for hard or cosmetic parts and you can always part it out on eBay.
 
Winter in de

Winter in de

Spectre said:
Yeah, the sensors on it are going to be in similar condition as is anything rubber on it. Might be a good source for hard or cosmetic parts and you can always part it out on eBay.
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Here in our area we missed a month of snowboard season ,ouch 1850 for season passes for my kids and I didn't get used.Anyway driving the truck up to mountains every wknd. The x300 is under a cover in the driveway. So will get back to working on it soon thanks again for all the great advice.
 
Adventuredude100 said:
Found a same year parts car for 300 , guy said the timing chain broke and the car sat for awhile .Now after putting a new chain on it won't start . Since I spent 178 for the trans sensircswitch I think it makes sense to pick this car up for parts . Might even get lucky and get it running ?

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Though I guess for my current situation I may be better off with new parts I guess. Still tempted for 300 bucks.
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Codes p0727 ,1313, 0300 showing now after just replacing the easier part , before touching anything the car had started to develope a habit of stalling once in a while then would start right back up after a few seconds of cranking
 
800 MILES AND NOT READY YET ?

800 MILES AND NOT READY YET ?

Adventuredude100 said:
Codes p0727 ,1313, 0300 showing now after just replacing the easier part , before touching anything the car had started to develope a habit of stalling once in a while then would start right back up after a few seconds of cranking
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I tried to do the listed Ford drive cycle and also just kept racking up miles. Now ive gone almost 800 miles, have been thru the DMV recheck lane about 10 times and on the 4th and last t-tag. Does anyone know what the drive cycle is for the x-300 since my car is still showing not ready in 4 areas.
 
X300 drive cycle for readiness:

http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...le-monitor-readiness-status-inspection-64212/

Step 1 (Engine Cold) Start engine, idle 20 seconds. Accelerate gradually and drive at 20-25 mph for 1 minute, varying speed.
Step 2 Accelerate gradually to 32 mph within 35 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle for 40 seconds.
Step 3 Accelerate at part throttle to 25 mph in 10 seconds. Cruise at 17-25 mph for 15 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 57 mph in 45 seconds. Cruise at 50-56 mph for 1 minute. Decelerate gradually to 0 mph in 40 seconds. Idle for 15 seconds.
Step 4 Accelerate at part throttle to 36 mph and maintain for 10 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 15 seconds. Idle for 5 seconds.
Step 5 Accelerate to 30 mph and back to 0 mph within 30 seconds. Idle for 20 seconds.
Step 6 Accelerate to 36 mph in 20 seconds. Drive at 35 mph for 20 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 15 seconds. Idle 5 seconds.
Step 7 Accelerate gradually to 26 mph and decelerate to 0 within 40 seconds. Idle 15 seconds.
Step 8 Accelerate to 27 mph in 40 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle 25 seconds.
Step 9 Accelerate to 26 mph in 15 seconds, maintain speed for 10 seconds, decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle 15 seconds.
Step 10 Accelerate to 23 mph in 20 seconds, decelerate to 0.5 mph in 10 seconds (no complete stop). Accelerate to 28 mph and back to 0 mph (momentary stop 1 second) within 35 seconds.
Step 11 Accelerate gradually to 34 mph in 45 seconds. Vary speed between 34 and 19 mph for 2 minutes. Decelerate from 25 to 0 mph in 25 seconds. Idle for 5 seconds.
Step 12 Accelerate to 29 mph in 15 seconds, decelerate gradually to 0 mph in 45 seconds. Idle for 30 seconds.
Step 13 Accelerate gradually to 28 mph and back to 0 mph (momentary stop 1 second) within 50 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 27 mph and back to 0 mph within 55 seconds. Idle for 15 seconds.
Step 14 Accelerate to 24 mph and back to 0 mph within 18 seconds. Idle for 10 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 22 mph and back to 0 mph within 50 seconds. Idle for 8 seconds.
Step 15 Accelerate gradually to 30 mph within 50 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle for 25 seconds.
Step 16 Accelerate to 23 mph and back to 0 mph within 30 seconds. Idle for 10 seconds.
Step 17 Repeat steps 1 - 16 once again. Recheck the status of the "Readiness Monitors". NOTE: Remember, clearing DTC's or interrupting power to the ECM after the readiness monitors have been reset to "Ready" will require that the Drive Cycle be repeated.
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And here's an overview of the logic and use of the Jaguar EMS:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Training Guides/801S - 2000.pdf
 
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This, however, was the original drive cycle as listed in the service manuals and they may prove to work better than the later updated cycle (which was adapted to include the more complex V8 engined models that came later on.)

AJ16 I6:


V12:
 
Thanks

Thanks

Spectre said:
This, however, was the original drive cycle as listed in the service manuals and they may prove to work better than the later updated cycle (which was adapted to include the more complex V8 engined models that came later on.)

AJ16 I6:


V12:
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Will try it tomorrow
 
I was able to get rid of all the codes except the p1138 and p1158 so purchased the oxygen sensors from Rock auto and am frustrated that the check engine light is back on after replacing these sensors ?
 
1996 xj6 with codes coming up

Adventuredude100 said:
I was able to get rid of all the codes except the p1138 and p1158 so purchased the oxygen sensors from Rock auto and am frustrated that the check engine light is back on after replacing these sensors ?
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There's a TSB on this:

Heated Oxygen Sensors ? P1138/P1158
Model:
Jaguar XJ Range 1996, 1997
Complaint:
Fault code P1138/P1158 will most likely be set due to a H02S lack of switching which denotes rich fuelling in the downstream sensor.
Remedy:
Switch off engine, and disconnect both downstream sensors. Go to step 1 of the test below.

Test:
1. Test the insulation of PI 126/002 and PI 127/002 to ensure a circuit to ground. If this gives a positive result go to step 2. If there is a short circuit then find the source and repair the fault, then go to step 4.
2. Ensure that each downstream sensor has a heater resistance of between 5.3 and 6.7W. If this gives a positive result then go to step 3. If the limits are incorrect then replace the heater element, re-connect the harness and go to step 4.
3. Ensure the sensors are connected to the correct plugs. If this gives a positive result then go to step 4. If they are incorrectly placed then resolve, re-connect the harness and go to step 4.
4. Clear the fault. Then in order to check if the fault code has been cleared perform the service drive cycle. If this gives a positive result then stop. If the fault is still present then go to step 5.
5. Repeat the diagnostic procedure. If this now omits a positive result then stop.

When testing do not test the resistance between sensor pins 3 and 4 as the generated current can damage the platinum electrodes.
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This usually will take care of the problem. If it doesn't, you may have an issue with your fuel pressure regulator, injectors, some sort of intake restriction like a nasty air filter or possibly something off the wall - I've heard of these errors being thrown when the car is actually working properly but one or both of the original exhaust manifolds has cracked or is leaking due to age and wear.

Edit: Something else to consider - like all post-OBD2 six cylinder cars, the X300 has not one, not two but *four* oxygen sensors. Did you replace all four?
 
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Any exhaust leak above the O2 sensor, or any leak within a foot of it below can cause problems.
 
GRtak said:
Any exhaust leak above the O2 sensor, or any leak within a foot of it below can cause problems.
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No I only replace 2 since I thought those were the 2 that were indicated by the code, should I replace the others ? First before doing other things
 
I would replace the other two at this point in time, yes.
 
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