Someone Else's Problem: 2004 Ford Mustang Convertible 'murica

93Flareside said:
Yeah, the axle dampers.

I don't track it so the best of the best is not worth the extra cash.
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ehh I don't track mine either (not yet at least), but my Bilsteins are one of my favorite mods. Probably my 2nd favorite mod after doing the 5-lug conversion and installing Cobra brakes. I actually found a used set (30k miles on them) of Cobra Bilsteins recently for my SVO for $200.
 
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My Maximum Motorsports subframe connectors came in while I was out of town. They're in the storage unit until I can get the welder from my dads work home. Once that happens on Wednesday, I'll post image of them being installed.

In other news, I also got the Raxiom Modified turn signal relay so that the sequential are more pronounced. :)

[video=youtube;DYjUS5I-qpA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYjUS5I-qpA&feature=youtu.be[/video]

Sure, I could've added a capacitor to the stock relay but, I didn't feel comfortable doing it.
 
Update!

Subframe Connectors were welded in Friday evening. The ride quality is much improved. The car feels more solid, everything feels more together. The top used to rub against the gasket on the car and squeak. This no longer happens. That right there tells me there's an improvement. The car no longer wobbles over train tracks, long streches of road the car had a slight wobble or wiggle to it, this is now eliminated. Totally worth it.

The kind I got were Maximum Motorsports and bought off of americanmuscle.com.

I did have to bend the drivers side connector a touch to align with the rear sub frame a touch but, everything else fit perfectly.
 
Now you just need a real roll bar in it to brace it laterally and you'll be astonished at the difference. :D
 
Yeah, that silly plastic handle bar thing you see on most I feel does absolutely nothing.
 
Spectre said:
Now you just need a real roll bar in it to brace it laterally and you'll be astonished at the difference. :D
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That's my plan for my convertible as well, I got quoted $700 for the install (roll bar costs $450)....ouch

93Flareside said:
Yeah, that silly plastic handle bar thing you see on most I feel does absolutely nothing.
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That's why they're called 'styling bars'.
 
2004 Ford Mustang Convertible 'murica

I thought they at least had a steel beam inside the plastic. I think it looks like utter shit. Style? It ruins the look of a convertible to me.

Spectre said:
Now you just need a real roll bar in it to brace it laterally and you'll be astonished at the difference. :D
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What's a good roll bar to get?
 
CraigB said:
You'll need to pad that to keep your head banging off the bars in a minor accident.
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that and get proper seatbelts.
 
Second the Maximum Motorsports recommendation. I don't recall, but I *think* it is far enough to the rear that there's no need to pad it. If you do, well, there's plenty of padding kits out there.
 
This seems a bit extreme for a leisure car. The mustang sits all week while I'm out of town and is driven Friday afternoon into Sunday evening only.
 
93Flareside said:
This seems a bit extreme for a leisure car. The mustang sits all week while I'm out of town and is driven Friday afternoon into Sunday evening only.
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That's what the Street version is for. It's worth it even for leisure-use Mustang.
 
93Flareside said:
Update!

Subframe Connectors were welded in Friday evening. The ride quality is much improved. The car feels more solid, everything feels more together. The top used to rub against the gasket on the car and squeak. This no longer happens. That right there tells me there's an improvement. The car no longer wobbles over train tracks, long streches of road the car had a slight wobble or wiggle to it, this is now eliminated. Totally worth it.

The kind I got were Maximum Motorsports and bought off of americanmuscle.com.

I did have to bend the drivers side connector a touch to align with the rear sub frame a touch but, everything else fit perfectly.
Click to expand...



I forgot to post a side by side of the stock "subframe connectors" and the real ones I was putting in.

10273036_10152404676553653_1029218082_o.jpg
 
More improvements!

I was able to get the correct Aux audio adapter for my radio. No more burning mix CD's.

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Thanks to http://www.oemautosound.com/ for having this older part in stock. This is worth not having a stupid flashy aftermarket radio. Everything still appears stock. My road trip to Florida in June will now be perfect. :D
 
I caved and got a new cat back set up. They are Pypes Violator. Not too loud, just right for me. American Muscle was out of stock and has been for about a month. So, Amazon had it, actually nearby too so it arrived quickly.

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With sound clip!


 
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Sounds great! How much did it cost you?
 
$420.00

Idle is the same as stock, so is driving in 5th between 50-70mph. 30-40mph in 4th gear and 3.55 Gears (I think) and it's not annoying or too loud to hold a conversation. I haven't gone faster to know when it gets noisy again. There's a mid-low frequency hum around 2k RPM when accelerating... normal. It lessens when you're not actively trying to increase your speed. Really the only time you hear exhaust noise is when you're above 2k and accelerating, otherwise it's about as quiet as stock. That's why I love it so much. You could daily drive the car and not be annoyed by the exhaust rumble when you're on the highway.

The only modifications I had to do to the pipes was, shorten the driver side pipe between stock pipe connector and muffler. Also shorten the hangers for the tips since it made positioning and mounting them hard before.
 
Cool, not bad at all!
 
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