Ownership Verified: Another Tesla lurking in the shadows...

In part, Tesla already does this, no? There’s a feature to magically blend in the brakes in situations with diminished regen (cold, full battery) - so all the software bits to make it completely unnoticeable are already there :|

… all the more annoying that my brakes look like shit and I’ll have to pay a grand to have them fixed! 🤣
 
In part, Tesla already does this, no? There’s a feature to magically blend in the brakes in situations with diminished regen (cold, full battery) - so all the software bits to make it completely unnoticeable are already there :|
Exactly, I was always very impressed with that. Lots of reviews of other cars complained about that transition. There's also that obsession with being able to adjust the regen that I've never understood, it's called a right foot and I was always very happy with how it worked.
 
There's also that obsession with being able to adjust the regen that I've never understood, it's called a right foot and I was always very happy with how it worked.
On my car, I really only use two of the settings. D1 (the lowest setting) for when I'm on the freeway, and don't want the car to slow down so quickly that the brake lights come on just from repositioning my foot. Then I use the "B" (the most aggressive) for basically everything else, except for these two specific hills I drive on with some regularity. Using 1, I keep having to apply the brakes. Using B, I keep having to use the "gas" pedal. So, on those hills, "D2" is perfect: maintains my speed without needing to apply brakes or power.
 
So I guess I’m always on the equivalent of B then… and for any situation where I’d want to coast or something, I end up using cruise control 🤣
 
Do a Ring lap every x thousand kilometres or every x months then. That's cheaper! :D
True. Maybe it’d already be enough if I didn’t drive like a granny all the time 😐
Another unlikely advantage of the RWD only model: less regen. Weird. Oh well…
 
Another unlikely advantage of the RWD only model: less regen. Weird. Oh well…
That seems like a disadvantage to me! Would the cost of the free electricity you claim from the front motor over X miles/km pay for the brakes? :hmm:
 
That seems like a disadvantage to me! Would the cost of the free electricity you claim from the front motor over X miles/km pay for the brakes? :hmm:
Let’s say the brakes cost 1000€ - and the lower regen somehow makes them last twice as long… meaning I’d have to regen 500€ worth of electrons from the front motor. That’s roughly 1.500 kWh - or the equivalent of about 10.000 km of driving… you’ll never regen that much, ever 🤣
 
So I guess I’m always on the equivalent of B then… and for any situation where I’d want to coast or something, I end up using cruise control 🤣
Yeah I'm the same, in the "heaviest" regen mode, simply because it's handy, and you can come to a complete stop without touching the brakes.
I guess a simple solution for you would be to do an emergency stop from highway speeds like once every few months? Would that get rid of the buildup on the brakes?

I do it all the time, although involuntarily, because Belgians (and also Dutchies) like to merge infront of you and then stand on the brakes...
 
I guess a simple solution for you would be to do an emergency stop from highway speeds like once every few months? Would that get rid of the buildup on the brakes?
To be honest I don’t know…
I started doing that once a week after the first tüv (not necessarily emergency brake, but brake down fairly hard from highway with the regen off), but the brakes may have already been too far gone at that point to save them…
 
To be honest I don’t know…
I started doing that once a week after the first tüv (not necessarily emergency brake, but brake down fairly hard from highway with the regen off), but the brakes may have already been too far gone at that point to save them…
Is it an option to have a shop resurface/mill the rotors?
 
Is it an option to have a shop resurface/mill the rotors?
Yes, there are a few shops that do offer this... but the only one I'm aware of (that's specifically done this on Tesla and keeping the brake on the car - for alignment and less work-hours) is like 400 km away - which isn't really feasible. I might do some more digging to see whether I can find one closer by that'd be willing and capable.

... edit: alright, found one an hours drive away. that may actually be a feasible alternative.
 
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On my car, I really only use two of the settings. D1 (the lowest setting) for when I'm on the freeway, and don't want the car to slow down so quickly that the brake lights come on just from repositioning my foot. Then I use the "B" (the most aggressive) for basically everything else, except for these two specific hills I drive on with some regularity. Using 1, I keep having to apply the brakes. Using B, I keep having to use the "gas" pedal. So, on those hills, "D2" is perfect: maintains my speed without needing to apply brakes or power.
Unteresting, I set mine to the heaviest setting everytime (equivalent to B), even though my car automatically always reverts back to setting 3 (out of 4)
IIRC The eGolf also always forgets its setting because... reasons? Apparently in hilly areas the 1 or 2 setting is better for optimum efficiency, but to be honest, I'm in CC mode pretty much all the time so I don't "manually" brake anyways?

Also, found out that even my Kia has a "brake maintenance mode"...
What kind of buildup am I looking for ? Is it just rusty brake discs? I've never really noticed this unless I hadn't driven it for a couple of days and there was heavy rain that time...
 
so that's basically the same as what happens for me when I change to N while coming off the autobahn then, only I have to manually switch back to D afterwards :p

What kind of buildup am I looking for ? Is it just rusty brake discs? I've never really noticed this unless I hadn't driven it for a couple of days and there was heavy rain that time...
it starts with rusty brakes and then turns that rust into a permanently pitted surface, oftentimes coupled with deeper grooves and such caused by (i assume) pieces of rust breaking off and getting embedded into the pads.

went to look at the "SG READY" thing of my heatpump this past weekend, because on sunny days i'm already feeding considerable amounts of electricity into the grid (no bueno!). looked at the inverter settings for that (straightforward) and fiddled around with it to see what the actual relay would do (all it has to do is close open contacts at the heat pump to trigger higher target temperatures in there). and the LED showing relay status does show what I would expect. but the relay doesn't actually close. it's just the LED that turns on. at first I thought the relay was simply broken, despite never being actually used, but then, after some digging, I actually found taht whoever installed that crap must've never done that before, because they installed a 24 V relay where the IO of the inverter only supplies 12 V. morons. have ordered a replacement and will swap that out. ugh.
 
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Roof rack is in and my god that’s a sketchy design… those J-hooks actually grab onto a nook underneath the glass. feels all sorts of wrong. But it ends up sitting solidly and looking good, so whatever.
Got the thing 2nd hand so I had to bodge my own protective tape - which looks like ass 🤣 who cares!
Also yes the car is dirty.
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Also test-fitted one of the Thule bike thingies. That’ll work alright.
 
Ok then! With two large und very non-aero bikes on the roof plus a lovely plastering of rain all through bloody Belgium and the cruise control set to 110 wherever possible… that ended up being 26kWh/100km. Pretty bad. But not entirely unexpected. What’s did not expect was the insane whistling noises. More wind noise sure, but high freq whistling sure was annoying. One more reason to upgrade to the much better insulated highland :p

I’m fairly certain consumption should drop noticeably without all the rain, tbh - maybe 22 kWh/100km. Long distance at that consumption really isn’t all that fun, but doable - luckily we only had to cover 300km, so one stop was enough. Supercharger chosen was weird, though…
That stop could’ve been much shorter than we chose it, but I didn’t trust the chargers at our destination - and for good reason. Shitty last mile solutions garbage, labeled out to “agrisnellaad” 😵‍💫 wouldn’t accept any of my cards, despite being shown in the corresponding apps. Would just start blinking green like crazy, then beep and show one red blink after a long timeout. It did start with the shell app, but here’s the kicker: after the remote start timed out in the app (60s) it took another 30 seconds and then the charger went click and started charging. Complete crap. Has o trusted the app id have unplugged by then already.
So, advice: never rely on LMS. Ever.

The way home will be much more relaxed though: Shorter stop (cause home, ie reliable charger), less / no uncertainty regarding actual consumption and, and this is something new to me: driving during daylight hours.

That last one used to be very different. I used to not care about driving in the dark in the slightest, even prefer it for long distance / highway driving because of potentially less traffic and everything you needed to see being lit up anyway. But boy, the way here was stressful. What with the pouring rain and very strong traffic, visibility was complete shit. Plus, and sorry to our Belgian friends, bloody Belgium, man! Deteriorated/non existent road markings, road signs that have the reflective qualities of vantablack and general weird ass construction around all of Antwerp. Ughhhh! I’ll be more than happy too be doing the way back in the daylight… and I’m still debating taking a 15 min detour to have the majority of the drive go through NL - simply because it’ll be less stressful that way.
 
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Unteresting, but what is normal consumption for your model3? + how many kwh are we talking here?

Also yes, our road network is utterly crap. We know. We’re constantly fixing it and still the overall result stays the same though
 
+ how many kwh are we talking here?
At 110 km/h, no idea tbh. I tend to go 125 km/h everywhere, which may be 15 kWh/100km or 20 kWh/100km - so let’s say this was about 50% higher consumption than I usually see. But a big part of that was certainly due to the heavy rain, keep that in mind.

Also I read online with the way aerodynamics are, the model 3 actually suffers worse or at least the same from the rear tow hitch bike rack compared to the roof rack. Did not expect that, but thinking about it more, it does make sense. There’s not a lot of ass on the car for the bikes to be hiding from the wind behind, so a large part of their profile stands in the wind and fucks up the rear aerodynamics. On the roof they only disturb the cars people a little and at least are in their most aerodynamic orientation (ie forwards rather than at 90° to the wind).
 
At 110 km/h, no idea tbh. I tend to go 125 km/h everywhere, which may be 15 kWh/100km or 20 kWh/100km - so let’s say this was about 50% higher consumption than I usually see. But a big part of that was certainly due to the heavy rain, keep that in mind.

Also I read online with the way aerodynamics are, the model 3 actually suffers worse or at least the same from the rear tow hitch bike rack compared to the roof rack. Did not expect that, but thinking about it more, it does make sense. There’s not a lot of ass on the car for the bikes to be hiding from the wind behind, so a large part of their profile stands in the wind and fucks up the rear aerodynamics. On the roof they only disturb the cars people a little and at least are in their most aerodynamic orientation (ie forwards rather than at 90° to the wind).

I am around 30 kWh /100km in the Y with a bikes on the back at 120 - If I was doing a long trip I would need to limit myself to 100-110 to get decent range.
 
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