So like 10ish years ago when I did the 5.9L build/swap, I also swapped in a low(er)-miles 46RH transmission from a junkyard ZJ. I put in a Transgo TFOD-H2 shift kit at the time and since then it has performed very well.
As noted in a previous post, I bought a broken 46RH (which was in a 1995 ZJ but turned out to be a 1993 trans) from a friend. I also had kept my original 46RH (1994) in a shed in case I ever decided to rebuild it. With both transmissions in my shop, I proceeded to tear them down and figure out what was what.
I definitely discovered that there were internal design changes between 1993 and 1994 transmissions. In usual Chrysler fashion, 1993 being the first year for the 46RH means they re-used a bunch of parts from the older A518 trans. The major issue being the different gear cut in the overdrive section (22.5 degrees vs 15 degrees) which meant basically none of the parts in the 1993 unit's OD section were useful to me. This discovery led me to completely tear down both units to see if there would be any other issues. Fortunately, the only other difference was the presence of a thrust washer vs. hardened surface on the reverse drum. Thus, I ended up with a much greater understanding of transmission design and a shop knee-deep in Torqueflite parts.
After struggling to purchase transmission parts out the States (one company abjectly refused to answer any emails and had no phone number) I finally acquired most of the parts I needed to finish the build. I had intended to start with the OD section as it is assembled as a separate unit, but my upgraded 5-pinion planetary gear has not yet arrived. So instead I started with what I could do on the main case and clutches.
I should probably mention I have never, ever built a transmission before and everything I know comes from the ASTG manual, the shop manual, and a lot of Youtube videos. A
lot.
Main case cleaned and ready for action:
Soak those clutches while you wait!
The upgraded aftermarket piston retainer calls for a hole to be drilled in the case to better lubricate the rear sprag, thank goodness for that big-ass drill press I picked up.
It's a very small (0.045") hole but important nonetheless.
With the hole drilled, I could install the new piston retainer and associated gasket. Marinate liberally with green trans assembly goo.
Among other upgrades is a much thicker billet steel reverse servo piston, as the stock cast-aluminum unit (bottom) has a habit of getting off-kilter in the bore and jamming up.
Many of the internal bushings were showing some ugly wear, the shop press and a set of bearing drivers made short work of replacing them. This is a very satisfying process, I've discovered.
(Ignore the rust on the spring seat, that part gets replaced when the OD section is assembled.)
Next up on the press, the forward drum spring retainer needed to be removed to replace the piston lip seals. Random bits of oilfield pipe make for great press tools - just cut out the bits that are in your way! This particular tool was my first use of the new plasma cutter, and man that is so much quicker than the angle grinder. Freehand cuts are pretty ugly though.
There's the springs hiding under the retainer - the bushing is in OK shape but I'll replace it while I'm in there.
Forward drum with new frictions and steel installed. It's provisionally together but I'm attempting to add an extra friction pack to this assembly (3->4) - I discovered that if I used a spare retaining plate from the direct clutch installed upside down, it allows me to get the extra clutch in there with endplay within tolerances. I have to pick up some parts from my trans guy so I'll pick his brain about the setup while I'm there - if he says it's a dumb idea I'll just machine down the factory plate instead. New bushing? New bushing.
Rear clutch drum: Old frictions and steels out, new ones in. These can be modified to hold more clutches (5-6) than the 4 I have in there, but for what I do that wasn't a worthwhile upgrade. You need to be in the 500HP+ range to make that clutch slip. The endplay was a bit looser than I wanted, the stock big-ass snap ring you can see on the outer edge is 0.074" thick and endplay is manged by changing that out for thicker/thinner ones. I'll see if I can get a 0.088" one.
Installing new seals on the various parts is a bit of a puzzle game. Here's a bag of assorted seals, find the ones that fit! what are the other ones for? Who knows!
That's about as far as I can go without the last few parts I'm waiting on - a couple of upgraded planetaries, a couple of thrust washers, an upgraded kickdown band apply lever and a replacement servo piston centering ring I broke during assembly.
In the meantime, I took my old damaged intermediate shaft and turned it into a combination of an alignment tool and a knockoff of a Miller 6312 so I can accurately set OD intermediate shaft depth and also keep the OD splines aligned. The legit Miller tool is ~$250, but with an old shaft, a bit of ingenuity, and some math, you can get the measurements you need. You'll see this used when I build the OD section IF MY PARTS WOULD HURRY UP AND ARRIVE.