Easiest way to fabricate engine mounts?

JCE

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Apr 12, 2005
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Location
DFW Texas
Car(s)
2016 Dodge Charger RT / 2015 Jeep Renegade
If one were to say want to swap an engine from another car into a project car you own what is the best way to get the new engine mounts fabricated? Lets say for argument the engine you want to swap in is actually has less cylinders and much less displacement (obviously). Also your project car is RWD and the engine wanting to be swapped in was both used in FWD and RWD applications.

Few specific questions...
  • What do you need to get started?
  • What and how would you measure?
  • How would you give this information to a machine shop to make the mounts?
  • Should you just pay for someone to do it for you and save the headache if you have zero skill in this area?

This is assuming you already have an adapter plate that will allow you to use the existing transmission and thus use the engine drive line back from the transmission. I'm just asking about engine mounts here but what else should one worry about in the engine bay in regards to the fitment?

There is a good reason why I'm asking this question...
 
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If you would give us some examples of what kind of car, the engine, etc., we could be of more help.
 
He wants to put a Ford 302 in his Camaro.

This is true however I'm thinking about another idea...

If you would give us some examples of what kind of car, the engine, etc., we could be of more help.

LSJ Ecotec I4 from a Solstice/Sky into my Camaro. *edit* The supercharged variant.
 
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The supercharged one was never in a RWD car, the turbo version was in the Solstice/Sky and it will have to work hard to carry around the extra weight of a Camaro.

And why would you want to put a Ford 302 into a camaro in the first place? You can find all sorts of LSX variants for fairly cheap and be able to buy a mount kit that will let everything drop right in.
 
The supercharged one was never in a RWD car, the turbo version was in the Solstice/Sky and it will have to work hard to carry around the extra weight of a Camaro.

The LNF can be taken from the Solstice/Sky and have the Eaton M62 from the Cobalt SS/Ion Redline installed with the right intake (and other oddities). Not that big of a deal really. :mrgreen: The Camaro is ~3,200lbs and the Cobalt SS is ~3,000lbs. Not that much of a difference and nothing stage 1 tuning cannot cure--adds 30bhp from my understanding. Plus, do not forget that my 305 V8 was 170bhp and 255tq factory, that's not exactly better than the 205bhp 200tq the supercharged LSJ puts out overall. Plus, I may find the turbo engine instead and have more power at my disposal (260bhp) which is more bhp than the 5.7L TPI V8 of the time with its 240~245bhp. Torque may be less than the TPI but is about the same as the 305. As I see it the turbo LNF would actually make my Camaro faster than the factory 305 that came in it. And the LNF's stage 1 tuning adds 20bhp and 60tq for a total of 280bhp and 320tq which more than makes up for the extra weight. Those numbers will make my Camaro faster than an IROC/Z28 of that period most likely.

And why would you want to put a Ford 302 into a camaro in the first place? You can find all sorts of LSX variants for fairly cheap and be able to buy a mount kit that will let everything drop right in.

I do not care for a GM V8 for my project. I prefer to use something else to break from the mold and I'm sick and tired of every god damned Camaro owner putting the same old shit into their car. If I want another engine in my car that isn't a SBC that's my choice. The Ford 302 is my front runner right now for my new engine choice.

Hell, if I wanted a damn 2JZ-GTE or VG30DETT in my car I would do it too if it wasn't any more expensive than what I'm already planning. :lol:
 
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Stick a 6L Jag V12 in it if you want to be different.
 
His car is still subject to smog rules for another 3 years. And he can't get an OBD2 pass on it.
 
13b.
 
I'll pass on the rotary. :D I've decided if the cost isn't too much I might swap the Ecotec instead of the Ford 302.

It will come down to engine availability versus cost per BHP.
 
the engine [...] actually has less cylinders and much less displacement (obviously).

Why is that obvious?
2.2L 4cyl in Ford Probe
2.0L V8 Ferrari 208 GTB

[/stirthepot]

:p
 
Position the motor according to the correct angles. Use carboard to make mounts, weld to the 3D diagram.
 
Position the motor according to the correct angles. Use carboard to make mounts, weld to the 3D diagram.

Hmmm, cardboard. :D

Sounds like I might need some help with this... Good thing the LE5 2.4 Ecotec is cheap to get. I'm thinking of getting the LE5 2.4 Ecotec and then use the LSJ or LNF heads for boost. But the boost will come much after the engine install. Want to make sure the engine is good before I boost it.
 
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SHO V6?
 
can't wait till you start the build!

this thread will be a hoot :lol:

you can do it, i have fait in you! :D
 
Put a HEMI in it.
 
I like the Ecotec idea. It's truly different. A Camaro with a 302 would just be a trollmobile. As for weight, I'd think an Ecotec (even a boosted one) and its transmission would be significantly lighter than an iron head SBC drivetrain.

Anyway, whoever brought up cardboard templates is spot on. Get the SBC drivetrain out and hang the Ecotec drivetrain in there. I've seen people just use a bare engine block and a gutted transmission to make it easier to move around. But once it's in there it's much easier to take measurements and make some templates. Get it right and then trace the patterns to steel, cut 'em out, weld them together and ta-da: engine mounts.

I don't know what your budget is, but is you're pulling all that apart anyway (and wanting to shave weight) you could put an aftermarket tubular K-member in there. I've also seen tubular transmission crossmembers.
 
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