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HAZ is looking to buy a VW Beetle!

if there is - he was the one who bit me :p

I'd thank him for that!

haz
 
They're asking: 21000 Norwegian Kroner(s) = 2687.55 Euro(s) which is in Dollars: 3244.7 which is an OK price ..

haz
 
That's a nice beetle :thumbsup: and the price isn't bad either
 
looking good

i had no idea a beetle was that expensive though
 
andyhui01 said:
josty would be very happy... is there a beetle virus around here? :p
Yes I think theres a bug going round :p

Once Haz buys his (if he does..), we should have a poll to decide which one is the best! :D
 
Haha, I got your PM haz, good to hear you're really looking for one!

But ehmm...I am pretty sure that isn't a 1303. A 1303 has another hood:

http://www.flat4ever.com/modules/freecontent/content/images/1303.jpg

The hood is more wide, not pointy like that one (mine too) You can call it a short and long bonnet too.

So that's one thing...I'll give you a list of things to look for.

And if you can, bring someone who knows alot about beetles, they can be so much work after you bought it and you will regret.

*Ask him if that's really a 1303 (say someone you know doesn't think so because of the long bonnet)
*Check the profile of the tyres
*Check for rust under the fenders, the fender is bended towards the inside of the car, check if it hasn't rusted trough (superficial rust is acceptable, you can respray it later)
*Check the wheelcompartment (front) and get the wheel out, see if there is rust under the wheel, and make sure it's not rotten, can be quite expensive (read: fortune)
*There might be a reason why he didn't have pics of the rear, check for rust.
*See if the overall paintwork is good, if it has loads of scratches it will rust even when you look at it (if it's standing outside in the rain)
*Check the underside of the doors, notorious for rust.
*Under the doors there is a black plastic step, underneath it are sort of beams, (kokerbalken we call it) and they support the chassis, they have to look original, if it has been repaired badly you don't see a profile. The beam has to have a profile if you look underneath it.

Engine
*See if any hoses are cracked
*Get the engine running and see if it runs idle, it should run 'bobbly', so not as smooth as current cars, just a little off.
*Check if there is oil on the floors on the compartment
*Feel if there is coming enough air from both exhausts.
*See if the drivebelt doesn't wobble when the engine is running.

Transmission
*The gearleaver is not as accurate as new cars and it can move quite freely and still be good. But I just replaced some parts and now you can definetly tell the difference between neutral and gear, if that's not the case it's not a dissaster.
*See if you can get it in reverse.

Now go drive it:
*Does the gearbox synchronise good?
*Can you get in to gears good?
*Does the gearlever pop out of the gear while driving?
*Do a braketest, the car shouldn't sway to one side if you brake heavy. You have to brake a little bit harder than regular cars (no assistence) but you should not have a total workout.
*How does it steer? Is there lots of play? Can be dangerous, but not hard to replace (if its the steeringdamper)
*How does the engine pull? Shocky, or normal at every rev? Should be normal, if not there could be a problem with fuel/carbs.
*Does the clutch pick up the gear good? Do a test: Pull the handbrake, in 2nd gear and give throttle, the engine should stall slowly. If not it could be a problem with the clutch, and since the engine has to be removed, could be quite expensive, or timeconsuming.

*How's the interior? New seats can be expensive, unless you know a few people who do it for you, the leather or fabric is still being made.

And last but not least, get something off the price, I got 600 euros off.

Mine was 3000 euro but I first bid on 2000 euro. So we ended up at 2400.

But an even bigger advice, don't bring money, it will burn in your pants and you will give it away way too soon.

Give me a report (what you thought about above points) and I can help you make a good choice. As a rookie (myself included back then) it's very easy to fall in love and forget about the bad things. But point is with these cars, they're old and everything has wear and tear, so eventually everything comes to an end, you just have to find a beetle where the previous owner has done that or one that was taken care off.

Good luck!
 
Josty, you are a freakin encyclopedia!

Good luck HAz, let us know of the outcome!
 
watto said:
Josty, you are a freakin encyclopedia!

Good luck HAz, let us know of the outcome!

Wait till I have to explain something with an actual beetle to show stuff :lol:

My english is crap at beetleparts, can't name 'em :cry:
 
Jostyrostelli said:
Haha, I got your PM haz, good to hear you're really looking for one!

But ehmm...I am pretty sure that isn't a 1303. A 1303 has another hood:

http://www.flat4ever.com/modules/freecontent/content/images/1303.jpg

The hood is more wide, not pointy like that one (mine too) You can call it a short and long bonnet too.

So that's one thing...I'll give you a list of things to look for.

And if you can, bring someone who knows alot about beetles, they can be so much work after you bought it and you will regret.

*Ask him if that's really a 1303 (say someone you know doesn't think so because of the long bonnet)
*Check the profile of the tyres
*Check for rust under the fenders, the fender is bended towards the inside of the car, check if it hasn't rusted trough (superficial rust is acceptable, you can respray it later)
*Check the wheelcompartment (front) and get the wheel out, see if there is rust under the wheel, and make sure it's not rotten, can be quite expensive (read: fortune)
*There might be a reason why he didn't have pics of the rear, check for rust.
*See if the overall paintwork is good, if it has loads of scratches it will rust even when you look at it (if it's standing outside in the rain)
*Check the underside of the doors, notorious for rust.
*Under the doors there is a black plastic step, underneath it are sort of beams, (kokerbalken we call it) and they support the chassis, they have to look original, if it has been repaired badly you don't see a profile. The beam has to have a profile if you look underneath it.

Engine
*See if any hoses are cracked
*Get the engine running and see if it runs idle, it should run 'bobbly', so not as smooth as current cars, just a little off.
*Check if there is oil on the floors on the compartment
*Feel if there is coming enough air from both exhausts.
*See if the drivebelt doesn't wobble when the engine is running.

Transmission
*The gearleaver is not as accurate as new cars and it can move quite freely and still be good. But I just replaced some parts and now you can definetly tell the difference between neutral and gear, if that's not the case it's not a dissaster.
*See if you can get it in reverse.

Now go drive it:
*Does the gearbox synchronise good?
*Can you get in to gears good?
*Does the gearlever pop out of the gear while driving?
*Do a braketest, the car shouldn't sway to one side if you brake heavy. You have to brake a little bit harder than regular cars (no assistence) but you should not have a total workout.
*How does it steer? Is there lots of play? Can be dangerous, but not hard to replace (if its the steeringdamper)
*How does the engine pull? Shocky, or normal at every rev? Should be normal, if not there could be a problem with fuel/carbs.
*Does the clutch pick up the gear good? Do a test: Pull the handbrake, in 2nd gear and give throttle, the engine should stall slowly. If not it could be a problem with the clutch, and since the engine has to be removed, could be quite expensive, or timeconsuming.

*How's the interior? New seats can be expensive, unless you know a few people who do it for you, the leather or fabric is still being made.

And last but not least, get something off the price, I got 600 euros off.

Mine was 3000 euro but I first bid on 2000 euro. So we ended up at 2400.

But an even bigger advice, don't bring money, it will burn in your pants and you will give it away way too soon.

Give me a report (what you thought about above points) and I can help you make a good choice. As a rookie (myself included back then) it's very easy to fall in love and forget about the bad things. But point is with these cars, they're old and everything has wear and tear, so eventually everything comes to an end, you just have to find a beetle where the previous owner has done that or one that was taken care off.

Good luck!

Haz --> *hits print page*

Damn Jos, you are THE man with the masterplan :thumbsup:

I will bring my father (the man with the wallet) and he told me "write down some stuff you will want to check out while we are there to test the car", and now "I" have written down a whole page with stuff!!!!!!! :thumbsup:

This is so awsome, I cannot thank you enough Jos :eek:

About the car: dunno if it is really a 1303, but it says so in the text. Long/short bonnet; I dunno the difference. I am not a Beetle "nerd", yet ;)

Hope this is really my bug you guys, I really do. The first thing I am going to buy, is a "bensin heater" / gas heater. Since I will drive it winters time, and it has only been driven summertime up til now. (So I will need to buy some winter tires as well)

I will take it to a certified shop, "NAF", they do tests of cars, so you will know if it's a good/bad buy. And they will let you know what "will go next".

Also, I will try to bargain the price, although it IS cheap AND many ppl have checked it out already!

Whish me luck, I will check it out tomz ....

:thumbsup:

haz
 
No problem. The thing is, Beetles in Sweden, Norway and Finland are in general in way better condition than in the rest of Europe. People from holland go to Sweden alot to get Beetles, people tend to take more care into the Beetles.

But I want to say one thing, if you say "this is gonna be my beetle" it will be dissapointed when your dad or the 'NAF' sais this car is bad, and you will be tempted to buy another one even sooner (from experience). Just go there with the intention to look only, and drive and do a crosshearing ;)

You have to, at least, look at a few Beetles before getting a good judgement on one. Of course, if this is in perfect condition and the 'NAF' says it's technically ok, you should go for it, but not right away. Look for more beetles, you will spot differences and learn where other beetles have bad spots. You can check your other beetle if it is beginning to rust on those spots etc, you'll learn alot from that. I've done it too, I have been to like 15 beetles and drove them all, and asked everything about them. Don't be afraid to say you don't know alot about beetles, if it's a real Beetlelover he/she will tell you everything about 'her' with love.

There is this saying "the one who asks is a moron for 2 minutes, the one who never asks will always be the moron".

Just take it easy, there are plenty of Beetles, and one is better than the other. I'm very happy I didn't buy the first beetle I saw, although I was in love with that one, I didn't have a problem with all the rusty bits etc, but now I have this perfect Beetle with no rust at all, it's well worth the effort to take a few weeks (in my case 4 months) to discover 'the world of the beetle' hehe.

Questions, just ask :)
 
Oh and do me a favour, take pics of EVERYTHING, that will be even better for me to judge it.

Pics of:

Interior, bad spots in the interior.
Bottom of the car, details, rusty details and from lots of angles.
Engine, close-up pics too.
The wheelcompartment, you can remove the carpet there and see if it's beginnning to rust, take pics there too.
pics of the paintwork in general, fenders roof, hood etc.
Just take loads of pics so I can see details.
oh and under the carpets IN the interior, check if't beginning to rust.

:)
 
andyhui01 said:
:lol:... jos is having an orgasm cuz there is someone to share your beetle knowledge with :p

Haha, so where is your beetle? I thought you wanted one too? :p
 
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