CBuck03
Active Member
Its a 2000 VW Jetta 1.8 Turbo.... and what do you think the first thing i should spend on it (performance parts)?
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How to take the speed limiter out of a car?
- Thread starter CBuck03
- Start date
Leppy
Well-Known Member
mate... there is a thread about this DIRECTLY BENEATH YOU POST!!
CBuck03
Active Member
but that is for a Merc not a VW
adrianpike
Member
Your 1.8T Jetta doesn't have an electronically limited top speed. Basic 150 or 180 hp 1.8T cars can't reach the 250 km/h or 155 mph speed the high-end models are limited to. Not sure about US Spec with tolerances set for lower quality fuel, but a 150 hp model shoud max out roughly around 220 km/h (137 mph).
The first thing is to get your 1.8T engine chiptuned. A basic 150 hp 210 Nm one will go to around 190-195 hp and 270-300 Nm, and it will also completely change the character of the engine. The power is increased by ordering up more boost from the turbo and increasing fuel flow accordingly, to keep the mixture right. Standard spec boost is around 0.4-0.5 bar, while a chip will raise it to 0.9-1.1 bar.
0-62 mph times can be expected to improve by 1.0-1.5 seconds, and at higher speeds the difference is even bigger.
Next step is improving the suspension by fitting lower, progressive springs and matching stiffer dampers. Go for a full kit to ensure compatibility of springs and dampers. KW Variante 1-3, Koni Sport are good.
Tires are also important. For a good compromise between performance and drivability vs. adequate comfort, go for 17" rims with 225/45R17 tires. Get the lightest rims you can afford, OZ Superleggera is good value for money while being one of the lightest cast rims available. Forged rims are lighter, but cost a lot more.
Lighter rims sharpen up the handling A LOT, and also improve the performance.
Get high-performance rubber, such as Pirelli P-Zero Neros, Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's, Conti SportContact 2's or Toyo Proxes T1R's. Avoid Bridgestone Potenza RE040 and RE050's, they have been known to break apart in track use. Bridgestone S-03 should be good too.
For higher performance consider semi slicks, like Michelin Pilot Sport Cup.
This is the point I've reached so far. next steps would be redoing the exhaust system, downpipe and cat being the most restrictive ones of the stock parts. Cat-back doesn't change much, but it's cheap to replace with a sportier one.
The biggest power leap would be a bigger turbo, the stock K03 being laughably small. A K04 (as in TT 165 kW or S3) will provide a nice leap into the 220-230 hp zone, but for more, go for a Garrett GT28RS "Disco Potato". Be prepared to spend way over 3500 USD on turbo replacement, though...
The first thing is to get your 1.8T engine chiptuned. A basic 150 hp 210 Nm one will go to around 190-195 hp and 270-300 Nm, and it will also completely change the character of the engine. The power is increased by ordering up more boost from the turbo and increasing fuel flow accordingly, to keep the mixture right. Standard spec boost is around 0.4-0.5 bar, while a chip will raise it to 0.9-1.1 bar.
0-62 mph times can be expected to improve by 1.0-1.5 seconds, and at higher speeds the difference is even bigger.
Next step is improving the suspension by fitting lower, progressive springs and matching stiffer dampers. Go for a full kit to ensure compatibility of springs and dampers. KW Variante 1-3, Koni Sport are good.
Tires are also important. For a good compromise between performance and drivability vs. adequate comfort, go for 17" rims with 225/45R17 tires. Get the lightest rims you can afford, OZ Superleggera is good value for money while being one of the lightest cast rims available. Forged rims are lighter, but cost a lot more.
Lighter rims sharpen up the handling A LOT, and also improve the performance.
Get high-performance rubber, such as Pirelli P-Zero Neros, Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's, Conti SportContact 2's or Toyo Proxes T1R's. Avoid Bridgestone Potenza RE040 and RE050's, they have been known to break apart in track use. Bridgestone S-03 should be good too.
For higher performance consider semi slicks, like Michelin Pilot Sport Cup.
This is the point I've reached so far. next steps would be redoing the exhaust system, downpipe and cat being the most restrictive ones of the stock parts. Cat-back doesn't change much, but it's cheap to replace with a sportier one.
The biggest power leap would be a bigger turbo, the stock K03 being laughably small. A K04 (as in TT 165 kW or S3) will provide a nice leap into the 220-230 hp zone, but for more, go for a Garrett GT28RS "Disco Potato". Be prepared to spend way over 3500 USD on turbo replacement, though...
Svempa
Active Member
But don't forget. More power = better brakes.
A lot of people forget that or think it's not important but they can save your life. Also they increase performance obviously because the one who can break later can go fast for a longer time
A lot of people forget that or think it's not important but they can save your life. Also they increase performance obviously because the one who can break later can go fast for a longer time
In a 1.8T tune the real-life speeds themselves seldom increase very much, you just reach the speeds faster. The stock brakes have been sufficient for my heavy road use, the track brings out the problems. The brakes work well for a few laps, but after 3 or 4, you really notice the fading on the braking from the main straight (on my "local" track Ahvenisto).
My solution so far has been to drive 3-4 laps (warmup, 1-2 fast laps, cooldown) at a time, then letting the engine, gearbox and brakes to cool down.
If you want an easy brake upgrade, use drilled Zimmerman discs and Ferodo pads. A basic Brembo kit would be a step better, and for great brakes, Movit kits are hugely expensive, but very effective.
I recommend you get a full kit for your specific model from some manufacturer. If the brake balance of power strays too much away from the optimum (usually very close to stock balance), you can actually increase braking distances compared to stock brakes. Something to do with the too powerful side (front, usually) activating ABS (as the wheels start to lock), which pulls back the overall brake pressure, which in turn also decreases the braking power of the other, weaker (rear) end. Or something like that, just read it from somewhere.
Stock brakes have held up well so far for me, as long as track exposure has been limited to 3-4 laps at a time.
My view on brake upgrades is that they don't actually improve the stopping distance too much, they just let you brake harder and more often for a longer time without fading.
Apart from the brakes, if your Jetta has a manual gearbox, you might want to change the gearbox oils every few years, even though the manufacturer tries to assure, that that oil never needs changing (rrright).
On my -98 Passat the 2nd gear was always a bit tricky, especially when the 'box was cold. I put in Redline MT-90 oils, and the gearbox was like new. The "feel" improved by miles, and gearshift times dropped dramatically, as all the shuffling became a thing of the past.
My solution so far has been to drive 3-4 laps (warmup, 1-2 fast laps, cooldown) at a time, then letting the engine, gearbox and brakes to cool down.
If you want an easy brake upgrade, use drilled Zimmerman discs and Ferodo pads. A basic Brembo kit would be a step better, and for great brakes, Movit kits are hugely expensive, but very effective.
I recommend you get a full kit for your specific model from some manufacturer. If the brake balance of power strays too much away from the optimum (usually very close to stock balance), you can actually increase braking distances compared to stock brakes. Something to do with the too powerful side (front, usually) activating ABS (as the wheels start to lock), which pulls back the overall brake pressure, which in turn also decreases the braking power of the other, weaker (rear) end. Or something like that, just read it from somewhere.
Stock brakes have held up well so far for me, as long as track exposure has been limited to 3-4 laps at a time.
My view on brake upgrades is that they don't actually improve the stopping distance too much, they just let you brake harder and more often for a longer time without fading.
Apart from the brakes, if your Jetta has a manual gearbox, you might want to change the gearbox oils every few years, even though the manufacturer tries to assure, that that oil never needs changing (rrright).
On my -98 Passat the 2nd gear was always a bit tricky, especially when the 'box was cold. I put in Redline MT-90 oils, and the gearbox was like new. The "feel" improved by miles, and gearshift times dropped dramatically, as all the shuffling became a thing of the past.