Lens Flair

I think Ice needs to calibrate his monitor a bit (TFT's usually have their image set up too bright and too blue), because that picture has a green hue, not a blue one.

edit: And it's not just my eyes playing tricks, if I do an auto color adjustment to the picture in photoshop and look at the histogram, it clearly tones down the greens and boosts reds and blues ;-)

haha.. I'm very much color blind (nearly full red/green color blind) and I can tell the hue is overly green instead of blue :lol:
 
Har har. It is a grove of spruces at my second home, reminds me of my family's land in Northern Wisconsin.

Have you noticed that with Nikon's, the reds and pinks are really saturated? I usually have to do -20 saturation in PS.

icebone is correct.. if you're using ACR or similar. Try shooting jpeg's and see if you're getting similar results.. or shoot RAW and use one of Nikon's converters (which are spot on instead of all screwed up like ACR).

Nikons definitely do interpret colors a little differently than Canons, but not by as much as you describe. ACR's red/magenta/etc. colors have always been a bit wonky.
 
Wow triple post! Try to use the
edit.gif
button. Or learn how to not just click quote when you want to. Hit edit, then copy and paste the text you want to quote and format it into quotations. Its not that hard. Its been put into one simple button:
quote.gif
 
Wow triple post! Try to use the
edit.gif
button. Or learn how to not just click quote when you want to. Hit edit, then copy and paste the text you want to quote and format it into quotations. Its not that hard. Its been put into one simple button:
quote.gif

thanks for the schooling :rolleyes:

(I made this an extra post just for you)
 
I think Ice needs to calibrate his monitor a bit (TFT's usually have their image set up too bright and too blue), because that picture has a green hue, not a blue one.

edit: And it's not just my eyes playing tricks, if I do an auto color adjustment to the picture in photoshop and look at the histogram, it clearly tones down the greens and boosts reds and blues ;-)
I think Ice's monitor is off from having been punched too many times. :mrgreen:
 
I just checked the hue from various locations (even gave it a max gaussian blur and checked that) and it's around 180?, which is right between standard blue (240?) and green(120?). :p

The point of my post was that his PP technique too often shifts the hue away from natural colours, which is fine in a few cases, but in a shot like this, it just ruins it, IMHO.

EDIT: And I did say blue/green to him on IM, so I win. :p I spent 3 hours calibrating these things, they better be correct... <_<
 
I just checked the hue from various locations (even gave it a max gaussian blur and checked that) and it's around 180?, which is right between standard blue (240?) and green(120?). :p

The point of my post was that his PP technique too often shifts the hue away from natural colours, which is fine in a few cases, but in a shot like this, it just ruins it, IMHO.

EDIT: And I did say blue/green to him on IM, so I win. :p I spent 3 hours calibrating these things, they better be correct... <_<

My monitor is calibrated using an actual tool (which only took me 15 minutes :p), and I gotta say: Icebone is right, it's pretty blue/green tinted. Though it's not that bad at all, I kinda like the effect.
 
None on these ones, the feature car shots use a few Grad ND8's but never use a circular polarizer or anything cause you need to wind the flashes right up to get the same amount of light and drain the batteries faster.

IMG_4671.jpg
 
Well, I'd love to learn from the master! There don't seem to be any sharp shadows. Did you use a diffusor of sorts? Where did you position the flashes? Mounted on the cam? Handheld? Somehwere completely different?

I hope you don't mind me asking all of this, but that show has PERFECT lighting! I'd love to learn how to do that. I know most knowledge comes from experimenting, but there must be a bone you can throw me. ;)
 
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