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MOMO Racing Wheel Accellerator Pedal Calibration Problem Fix

ESPNSTI

ESPNSTI

.
Joined
Dec 9, 2003
Messages
4,905
Location
Decorah, IA
Car(s)
2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STI (USDM)
I ran into a problem yesterday where the accellerator pedal of my MOMO Racing Wheel kept losing it's calibration (never happened to me before).
As a result, when I put the pedal to the floor, it was thinking I was only pressing it 90% of the way.
I unplugged it and plugged it back in, and it would work again (for a little bit).
When I used DXTweak2 (a utility that shows the pedal's raw values), I noticed that I could get varying values of full throttle (which should be 0 in this case), by rolling my foot from one side of the pedal to the other while fully pressed down.

After searching the web it turns out that this is perhaps somewhat of a design / production flaw.
I found a fix for it though, and so far (about an hour or so after the fix), it seems to be working.

Here's what is needed to fix it :
http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_e5.html
 
They really found a way to fix it? I heard of it numerous times and its called, at least in Germany "the 80% bug" The driving Force Pro I ordered also does have this problem, but it takes it longer to occur...
What I heard, it will become worse and worse over time, meaning you have to unplug and replug it really often... I really don't care, Logitechs support is excellent!!!

Well, if this method works as well, the better!

Buba
 
jasonchiu said:
if its still on warentty just go and get a new one...
Click to expand...
I suspect it's a design / production problem, that would mean just about every one will have the problem.
I've had mine for about two months now (I think).
 
Yeah, I've used DXTweak so far. The problem is, when it calibrates with max value "too far", I change limits in DXTweak... But then after a while it recalibrates to normal value again, which causes gas pedal to be at maximum value when it's pressed 70% or so, because of the limits in DXTweak I set before.
If there were an utility that allows changing deadzones in drivers instead of directX, so it doesn't recalibrate itself whenever it wants... It would solve the problem, because I could force the values I want, and they wouldn't change after a while.
 
jasonchiu said:
yeah so you'll get a revised model if u got for the warentty
Click to expand...

There are no revised models, I guess... That's why the driving force pro has the same probs... They just improved some parts...

Buba
 
MXM said:
Yeah, I've used DXTweak so far. The problem is, when it calibrates with max value "too far", I change limits in DXTweak... But then after a while it recalibrates to normal value again, which causes gas pedal to be at maximum value when it's pressed 70% or so, because of the limits in DXTweak I set before.
If there were an utility that allows changing deadzones in drivers instead of directX, so it doesn't recalibrate itself whenever it wants... It would solve the problem, because I could force the values I want, and they wouldn't change after a while.
Click to expand...
I have a hard time understanding all of this. :? :p
Anyways, I tried DXTweak2 at first but it seemed to "lose it's mind" quickly in LFS.
 
ESPNSTI said:
I have a hard time understanding all of this. :? :p
Click to expand...

Yea, I can't always express my thoughts clearly :D
But I try again. This thing works that way: it reads the position of potentiometers, gives the reading to driver (not the one behind the wheel, the one in OS :)). Driver then calibrate settings, i.e. sets dead zones, which means it remembers the lowest and highest value received from pedals. It does that automaticly, and apparently whenever it wants to. These values are then scaled from 0 to 255 and handled to directx which passes them to game itself.
What happens here, is when crappy potentiometer "sends" some value that is beyond it's range, drivers recalibrate dead zones making highest possible position too far. So when you press the throttle fully, directx receives from driver something like 210 instead of 255 and cars accelerate 18% slower :(
DXTweak calibrate the values in directx, making 210 "look like" 255 for the game (lower values are scaled respectively). It works ok, only not as precise, because you now have range of 210 possible values to pass to game, instead of 255.
But actually, original raw values generated by driver are still wrong, because it thinks you aren't pressing the throttle fully. So when for some reason driver decides to recalibrate your pedal and this time correctly, it starts sending full range of values (0-255) to directx. But now directx is "tweaked", and everything beyond 210 is interpreted as max throttle. So you end up with pedal with very rapid increase of acceleration, and dead zone starting much earlier than it should. This annoys me, because I have to check in DXTweak all the time to make sure I'm effectively using full range.
Soo.... If there were a program that let's you change deadzones of raw values in driver (locking the highest and lowest position of throttle permanently - basicly calibrating it manually instead of automaticly) it would solve the problem completely. Drivers wouldn't go mad and think that you can press the pedal beyond it's range.

That's what I was talking about in previous post. Ok, it's a little too detailed, and you probably know all this stuff, but now you see what I ment :)
 
Haven't had any issues with mine, but I'll make sure to remember this thread if I ever do. :thumbup:
 
@MXM: Right, now I understand.
This is the exact same problem as I had, and this is also described in the link that I posted ( http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_e5.html ), with the difference that they say the autocalibration happens in the electronics and not in the driver (in which case you can forget about a deadzone utility at the driver level).

Have you tried "rolling" your foot from side to side (or moving the pedal from side to side) while having it pressed in the "full throttle" position?
If you do that, and in DXTweak2 you see the raw values fluctuate (rather than being steady at 0 or 255), then this problem is likely caused by the one described in the link (a gap between pedal shaft and bracket).
I'll do some more driving tonight to hopefully confirm that the problem has definitely gone away.
 
Yep, the pedal is a little "wobbly". I wonder if it's possible to put the springs and potentiometer (in case throttle has worn out) from brake. Because brake is not that important (not in real life obviosly :)).
 
Actually the potentiometer is probably just fine.
If you'd move the springs from the brake, you'd get a "heavy" accellerator pedal, and a "light" brake pedal.

I would think you'd want to try what they suggested in that link first, before thinking about anything like that.
All in all, I think it took me about 30 minutes or so to do.
I didn't think it was that difficult (but of course that differs from person to person), but make sure you thoroughly read and follow the instructions.
Actually I didn't even need the grease, since there was some excess grease in other areas that I used.
 
I opened it once couple of months ago to see if there were something wrong with my set (didn't know it was common), and there were tons of dirt stuck in grease, so it all ended up very messy :) And that carpet-system didn't really help either.. a bit tricky to put it back in with pedals poping up from their sockets all the time and everything covered in dirty grease.
So maybe when I'm in the mood... I'll see first if your fix works :)
 
Never had a problem with my old Logitech Wingman Formula Force pedals (which I probably have had for 5, 6 year or so now).

BTW, played another hour of LFS today, and haven't had any problems at all.

EDIT: Just played another 15 minutes or so, and I've encountered no problems whatsoever.
I can roll my foot from side to side over the accellerator pedal all I want while at full throttle, I can try to push it from side to side, and it keeps working just fine.
I checked DXTweak2 several times inbetween gameplay, and the raw values reliably stay at 0 when at full throttle, no fluctiation at all.

That's a sharp contrast from yesterday before the fix and the day before that where I'd lose calibration several times (sometimes within minutes) while playing LFS.
 
My MOMO racing force busted early january. It had the problem with potentiometer, I opened it up and used superglue to keep the pot to it's place. It worked for a while but then the pot went completely dead and I was forced to get new pedals. The cause was dodged glue operation, now that I know what I did wrong I'd still make the fix but a bit differently. I've heard the pot problem existing in the majority of the pedals and some players have sent five sets of pedals to warranty refund before running out of warranty. It's crazy that Logitech still hasnt' fixed the problem.

Right now I have the MOMO wheel in use with MS Precision Wheel pedals(Windows is going crazy with two controllers, but at least it works with NR2003 and GPL). Cost me 20 euros and most likely will last longer than another pair of MOMO Racing Force pedals.
 
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