Ownership Verified: My Brooklands Green sports saloon...

Shouldn't it be a drivetrain problem if it only occurs when the car is in motion?
Not sure what part of a drievtrain near the engine could cause a ticking noise tho. :dunno:
Or is it only at certain revs, maybe only under load?
 
Maybe something is wrapped around the driveshaft and slaps against the body at each revolution.
 
captain_70s said:
Considering naming my car "rattles"...
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You forgot the "nake" at the end. Tempermental, touchy, and can kill you in an agonizing manner, but will be nice enough to warn you first.
 
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Converting fuel into mostly noise and a little bit of forward monentum... reminds me of my 200D a lot. ;)
 
nicjasno said:
You overdid the grain a bit.
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Yeah, might have been a bit overkill. :lol:
ChuckMoritz said:
Converting fuel into mostly noise and a little bit of forward monentum... reminds me of my 200D a lot. ;)
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Acceleration leaves a lot to be desired! Although once it sat at 60mph it is easy to stay there, unlike the Yaris where I find myself constantly drifting up and down between 50-70 without realising because I can't really hear the engine, it's all very distant. I also never reverse park in the Yaris, whereas I reverse park the Triumph for fun. It's just so easy to see out of and the only issue is the weighty steering when stationary. :D

Did a compression test today, results:

4 - 130psi
3 - 130psi
2 - 125psi
1 - 125psi

Not bad for a 124,000 mile engine that's lead a maintenance free life for a few years I think. Although you have to disconnect the fan belt and move the alternator to get to the spark plug for cylinder no.1 otherwise the socket will be angled and break the plug's ceramic, as I found out. Lucky I had a spare. :roll:

When I fired it up it rewarded me by blowing soot and water all over the garage, or it would have done if I hadn't had the smart idea of laying some cardboard out. :lol:

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So much water coming out the exhaust I'd think the thing ran on hydrogen if not for the soot, and noise. It's also still running far too rich, sending it away to the garage for them to sort the brake fluid, tune the carbs and replace the tyres, but I want to flush the oil and coolant and re-torque the head first.
 
So, booked the car in for new tyres. The following day the clutch died on the way to/from work, the biting point slowly sunk to the floor to the point where I removed the front carpets for extra pedal travel, I got it home, just. It's a hydraulic clutch, the reservoir is empty, tried filling it, no luck. Must be air in the system and bleeding it is a bitch of a job without a ramp.

So today the car was booked in to the local garage to have the clutch sorted, my plan being to limp it down there and drop it off tomorrow evening. I set about giving it the 500 mile checkup after I repaired the top end. Retorquing, clearances etc. Put it back together and the bastard won't start. Turned over and made a vague splutter, so I set about checking the painfully fragile ignition system, a few attempts later and the battery went flat.

It's like it knows when it's required to be somewhere and breaks down accordingly...

This seems relevant at this moment in time:


Starting to see why people run miles from things with a "Made in Britain" sticker. Anybody want to swap for a E20 Corolla?
 
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So, about those 'friends' of yours who were telling you that a Dolly would be reliable transportation... :lmao:
 
I see denial is not just a river in Egypt...

:evil:

Keep in mind, I'm saying this as someone who owns a BL-era-design Jag...
 
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Andeh said:
Are also friends of mine and mostly drive classics successfully as daily drivers.

Dolly is the exception in this friendship group, not the rule.
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Friend's daily drivers currently doing better than my weekend car:

A Rover 2000.
Several MGBs.
A Spitfire 1500.
Some Morris Minors.
An Austin Montego and a Metro.
An Austin A35 van.
Lots of SIII Land Rovers
An Austin A40

My car is an unfortunate example of a 124,000 mile Triumph that was recently owned by somebody who didn't know the meaning of the term "regular maintenance". A shame as I reckon the original owner looked after it well given he kept it for so long.
Hoping to get this summer out of it, following that it'll be getting a Dr_Grip style rebuild over winter.

Currently hoping my starting issue is the combo of a tired starter motor and a mostly flat battery, we shall see tomorrow when I get back from work. If not it's probably the ignition system, it's only a year old but quality of repo parts is dire, properly dire, to the point where NOS is highly valued!
 
Andeh said:
I didn't mention that only one or two actually drive BL era BL cars. The rest are pre-BL models. :p
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Again, as I was saying before... those friends who said a Dolly (or any BL malaise pile) would be reliable? :lmao:

captain_70s said:
My car is an unfortunate example of a 124,000 mile Triumph that was recently owned by somebody who didn't know the meaning of the term "regular maintenance"something made by BL.
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FTFY. :p

Currently hoping my starting issue is the combo of a tired starter motor and a mostly flat battery, we shall see tomorrow when I get back from work. If not it's probably the ignition system, it's only a year old but quality of repo parts is dire, properly dire, to the point where NOS is highly valued!
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1. Don't use repop BL parts. That's sticking a replica of an almost broken part on to replace a broken one.
2. Don't use NOS BL parts. That's sticking a factory almost broken part on to replace a broken one.
3. Use a modern starter: http://www.britishstarters.com/Home.html
4. Use a modern ignition: http://www.pertronix.com/ or http://www.newtronic.co.uk/new/main.php/lumeni
5. Fit a modern alternator: http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=techni&action=print&thread=139910 (don't forget to replace your charging cables)
6. Watch a lot of your BL-derived crappyness go away. Doing much of anything else is just an exercise in futility.
 
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An Autosparks loom would get rid of a a bit more crappyness. Electronic ignition was also the best thing I ever fitted to the old Series III, started every time.
 
That goes without saying - one presumes that would be the first thing one replaces because the Lucas wire should have all disintegrated by now. Lucas - where supplying wire rated to 80 degrees C for use on an engine that idles at 88 degrees C is considered 'a good idea.'
 
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