Ownership Verified: My Brooklands Green sports saloon...

captain_70s

Forum Addict
Joined
Aug 6, 2008
Messages
6,407
Location
Glasgow, Scotland
Car(s)
Three Triumphs and a Volvo estate
That must be the ultimate drug trafficking car :D
Highly undesirable that your cocaine falls out of the sills through the rust holes though...

Engine is now back out. There were setbacks...

c16d8823-cfc7-4325-b591-d2f415ae704e.jpg


Yes that is my nice new 30w breaking in oil making it's escape. I'll do a proper post about the state of the engine build later when I can be arsed...

In happier news the Mk2 Golf inner arches arrived and are working well with a bit of adjusting.

IMG_20200813_101847.jpg

arch2.jpg


Obviously it all needs to sit a touch further back but we were waiting on this arriving before that occurred...

117963879_1222873344729423_6252728895465682182_n.jpg


Half of a rocking horse shit repair panel. £60 that cost, they used to be £40 a pair. :eek: Worth it though, it'll save a lot of work, I also purchased enough sheet steel to make two new sills...
 

captain_70s

Forum Addict
Joined
Aug 6, 2008
Messages
6,407
Location
Glasgow, Scotland
Car(s)
Three Triumphs and a Volvo estate
Update!

Been hammering away on this most weekends, progress is steady.

Firstly, the front of the car has been covered in primer to protect it while we tackle other rot. The whole car still need to be stripped back to bare metal and the bodywork finalised but a single colour of paint helps to show how the shape is coming along...

118692784_634749897244170_5189904708268916452_n.jpg


The Mk2 Golf inner arch was finalised and the outer repair panels welded on...

118626018_607963296548941_7599293265343682552_n.jpg

118224639_716310435633789_2184213964716002102_n.jpg


Quite a bit of action from the dent puller and hammer and dolly to remove heat distortion but it went in remarkably cleanly.

Naturally I didn't do that. Hence why it's not all utterly fucked. I was cutting out the other side...

118270262_646189586021477_526312902222148309_n.jpg

118702401_764466680793398_4762279270324083674_n.jpg

118306841_2702632653341691_4642580090716423623_n.jpg

118304708_333894601324178_3211857647605130212_n.jpg


Filler over rot over patches over rot over filler over holes. Glorious.

I did at least get to try out my newly purchased MIG welder and put some of the boot floor back in.

DSC_6723 (Copy).jpg


So. To the engine.

You may recall it'd pissed it's oil everywhere? My fault, I'd missed an oil gallery plug.

However after removal I went to turn it and found the engine locked solid... This was concerning. Much scratching of heads occurred, then it was suggest to tap the crank pulley with a hammer. This was done, engine turned freely. Bar behind the pulley and levered against the block. Locked solid. Shit.

Much discussion was had between myself, the chap helping who's already built a Triumph 1300 engine and the chap who built the bottom end of my new engine until we came up with the reason for the engine locking. In brief:

At the front of the crankshaft on a Triumph SC engine are two half-moon shaped thrust washers which take up the fore/aft movement in the crank. These are notorious for wearing away and being steel with a bronze face once the bronze is gone the steel bites into the crank surface and ruins it. Worst case scenario the washers get so thin they rotate around and squeeze past the end cap, dropping into the sump. Your crank is now also eating into your engine block...

My engine had already had thrust washer damage at some point in the past and was running oversized thrust washers, the biggest you could get at +10thou. On testing this seemed fine with use pressing the crank back as far as it'd go and then me pulling it forwards with a micrometer against the pulley to measure the travel.

However, what we hadn't counted on was that when the crank was re-ground by the machine shop they'd filleted the edges of the journals for strength. Common on a lot of cars, but not Triumph SC engines. When I'd pried the crank back in testing the end float I'd run it up against the fillets - making it appear fine, on removing the engine and heaving on it we'd driven the crank further back with more force and the fillets were now binding against the block...

Essentially this meant that the crank float was actually worse than we'd thought and running the largest available thrust washers there was no easy solution. Usually the way ahead at this point would simply be to build another engine but I figured we were this far in and had nothing to lose from experimenting a bit.

119010691_317683683018904_6819007841085536450_n.jpg


What you see here are generic shims... The rearward face side of the thrust washer (seen at the top of the above picture) doesn't see any wear, and is also buried under the washer behind the end cap. Thusly we figured if we were to simply insert a shim down that side of one of the washers we could decrease the end float with no ill side effect. The washer wouldn't wear away, and it wouldn't be able to escape unless the thrust washer itself had already fallen out.
We also found that the second set of +10thou thrust washers I'd bought were slightly thicker than the last set. Seemingly the production tolerances for them are seriously sketchy, handy for such a crucial component.

Anyway, we shimmed the fucker right down to the minimum acceptable tolerance. Fuck it. This motor is on a 30thou overbore and the crank is 30thou over on the big ends and 20thou over on the mains. It can't be machined any further so we've got nothing to loose by trying to get some life out of it.

The engine was installed (again) and the various ancillaries were bolted up, oil pressure was run up with a drill and was good. Went to start it up, nothing. Not a cough. We had fuel, had spark but no bang...

Compression tester was deployed. 20psi per cylinder. Now, that suggests either the cam timing was well out or somebody had stolen the pistons overnight. Bastard.

Turns out we had managed to get the timing 1 1/2 teeth out, enough to be losing vast amounts of compression, not enough to be mashing the valves into the pistons.

Right, so ready to go... All fluids filled, fuel from an IV drip. Initial break in procedure for these engines is to fill it with 30w break-in oil and once it's started take it straight up to around 2,500rpm and hold it there for 20mins while mildly varying the engine speed from around 2,000rpm to 3,000rpm... If anything major is going to go wrong it'll be at this point.


Fuck yeah.

After this the 30w oil was dumped, the filer changed and she was filled with regular 20w50 and run back up to temp.


We're running 150psi per cylinder. Hot oil pressure is around 20psi at idle gaining 10psi per 1,000rpm. Crank float under clutch use is at 4thou, bang on the minimum per the factory specs.


All the baffles have escaped the rear silence and it sounds fruity...

I need to replace the dizzy springs as there is a lot of slop in the rotor arm and the carb could also do with a rebuild but for the first time in two years I have a running, driving Dolomite! The new motor sounds sweet as a nut, I can't wait to get it run-in on the road.

That'll be a while mind, a rough to-do list is as thus:


Fabricating and welding both sills
Finish the boot floor
Finish outer arch on OSR
Inner and outer arch on NSR
Fabricate and weld in all four jacking points
Lower trailing edge of both front wings
Repair any rot in the floorpan
Bits of the chassis legs to finish
Pulling out the dent in the rear panel
Straightening the bootlid

We're estimating the car'll be ready for paint around March 2021...
 

killpanda

wants to fondle your manboobs
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
5,075
Location
Vancouver, BC
You may have mentioned it somewhere already, but will you rebuild the front with the original square headlights or with the (in my opinion, better looking) round quad-headlights like on the yellow one?
 

captain_70s

Forum Addict
Joined
Aug 6, 2008
Messages
6,407
Location
Glasgow, Scotland
Car(s)
Three Triumphs and a Volvo estate
You may have mentioned it somewhere already, but will you rebuild the front with the original square headlights or with the (in my opinion, better looking) round quad-headlights like on the yellow one?
Getting rebuilt with the stock square lights. Quads do look better in general but it's also the mod everybody wants to do (and usually don't because the panels are very different, so I'm not doing it. :ROFLMAO: I reckon the car will be about 90% stock in appearance when we're finished, I may swap the wheels, paint the C pillar satin black and fit a chin spoiler from a fancier model but other than that it'll be as it was when it rolled out the factory.

Sitrep:

My second hand MIG welder was collected. So me and Mr Herald can now work on the car simultaniously (previously we were exchanging the welding and cutting/fabricating jobs).

DSC_6868 (Copy).jpg


We discovered loads of rot in the inner front wheel arch area, all the way up to the bulkhead... The lip that the splash guard bolts to was also rotten though.

DSC_6869 (Copy).jpg


DSC_6883 (Copy).jpg


Highly unattractive welding on my part but access up at the top was a nightmare as you could get the welding torch in, and your head, but not if you were wearing the welding helmet. Giving you the option of firing blind or applying safety squints and setting your own face on fire while blinding yourself. I also had to pull out the front carpets, wheel well trims, dash, parcel shelf, etc to prevent setting the interior on fire...

I also started working on the sill.
DSC_6936 (Copy).jpg


Deviation from the original design here, mostly for ease of welding and to avoid excess seams. Form factory they go together like this and are spot welded at the bottom:

sills1.jpg

I'm putting them together like this and will be seam welding them:

sill2.jpg


We also modified the way the jacking points are under the car. From the factory they are an exposed box section with a plate sitting inside, presumably to give somewhere obvious to put the jack, as such:

jack1.jpg


Obviously this recess fills with mud and rots out, so we've made the box section slightly shorter and enclosed it inside the sill, like this:

jack2.jpg


Not a major deviation but one less rust trap. Its also still obvious where the jack goes as it's immediately behind the front wheels for the front two and immediately after the rear wheels at the back.

Essentially the same work was carried out at the other side (the sill cap was salvaged on this side, I managed to loose the one on my side and had to make one...):

DSC_6856 (Copy).jpg


We moved the car out of the garage/driveway to get the Volvo in for prodding (and condemning) so I managed to get some proper pictures of the whole car.

DSC_6949 (Copy).jpg

DSC_6950 (Copy).jpg

DSC_6951 (Copy).jpg

DSC_6952 (Copy).jpg


Starting to come together. Needless to say we have months of bodywork ahead of us once the welding is complete to make sure everything is straight... The NOS wheelarch repair panels were fairly terrible, 0.8mm steel when the rest of the car is 1.2mm and badly pressed + twisted from years of storage. They're all that you can buy these days (at around £120 a side!) so we just had to make do.

Obviously with the new engine the car is... Still an utter pig to start.

Yes, despite all the attention we still have to sometimes resort to pushing the thing out of the garage. It has new points and condenser, and clean plugs so we suspect the carb is just shagged. A rebuild kit shall be acquired.

Currently the project is on hold as the Acclaim is getting worked on in anticipation for the upcoming MOT. The goal is to have all the welding done on that so I don't have to worry about it for a few years. We've all Winter/Spring to work on the Dolly...
 

captain_70s

Forum Addict
Joined
Aug 6, 2008
Messages
6,407
Location
Glasgow, Scotland
Car(s)
Three Triumphs and a Volvo estate
So, uh, work stopped on this in December to get the Acclaim done and simply never restarted.

My posting the work carried out on the Dolly in various places online caused a flurry of interest in having my mate weld up their cars - For actual money.

Long story short a '66 Ford Galaxie went in for floorpans and transpired to actually be completely fucked. No floors, no boot floor, double door skins, dents in every panel buried in filler, body mounts rotten through. It was held together with paint, hopes, dreams and a quarter inch of filler over the whole car.

1.jpg


8 months down the line it's nearly finished. Well, the bodywork is at least actually metal and solid, painted in a custom blue to emulate a stock '66 colour as best as possible. All the pot metal trim is fucked, as is the interior, and it only runs on 4.

3d8fabba-7be6-4b25-b9e9-3b2a4040cb56.jpg


I went over to plan out some custom rad mounts for the Acclaim and actually saw the Dolly for the first time since February. Fires up first turn of the key and despite being wet and mouldy it hasn't rusted except a bit of surface shit where paint has scrubbed off from being under a cover in a tight driveway.

17f54d81-84ec-4b6c-8d3d-870b21bdd786.jpg


It'll be done by summer. Which summer is yet to be confirmed.
 

Perc

Very Odd Looking Vehicular Object
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Messages
5,965
Location
Finland
Car(s)
Passat Alltrack B8
You mentioned that you couldn’t get in there with a welding mask on. There’s a solution for that, fyi. It’s probably sweaty and terrible but good for tight spaces.

1637619365342.jpeg
 

captain_70s

Forum Addict
Joined
Aug 6, 2008
Messages
6,407
Location
Glasgow, Scotland
Car(s)
Three Triumphs and a Volvo estate
You mentioned that you couldn’t get in there with a welding mask on. There’s a solution for that, fyi. It’s probably sweaty and terrible but good for tight spaces.

View attachment 3563045
Have gimp masks gone too far?

That would actually have been quite handy, if unpleasant.
 
Top