Aye, the car is really at it's bare minimum for functionality.
No door handles, nothing is lined up, no rubber seals fitted, a single windscreen wiper, fuel pump activated by joining two wires under the dash, most of the interior missing or held in with a fraction of the amount of bolts/clips it should be, my sole functional headlight died enroute. It's an experience...
It does drive well though. Pulls decently, tracks straight, stops as it should, etc.
Pro tip*, £12 unbranded fuel pumps from eBay aren't reliable and could well die after 40 miles of use.
Re-plumbed the mechanical pump and it worked fine.
It was running an electric pump because we'd had issues with fuel overfilling the float bowl and thought it was over pressurised. It seems it was actually more likely the needle/seat on the float bowl itself.
Fuel started pissing out the top of the float bowl. Again. This now the "new" carb running the original top/float/needle/seat, so the same problem with different parts. Quickly pulled it apart at the side of the road, held the float up shut and started the car. While running off the contents of the float bowl no additional fuel was making it past the needle. So that was working.
Reassembled and it was fine. Presumably some crud got stuck in the needle/seat and jammed it open. I've ordered a new needle and seat anyways.
Done roughly 100 miles in the lean green oil dropping machine since it's been back.
Photos don't really do the new colour justice, it seems to desaturate in pictures.
Anyways I fitted the door rubbers and got the doors hung more or less in the right places so they all open and close properly. A bit of further tweaking will be required to tidy up panel gaps and swage lines.
These door rubbers are a nightmare to install.
They run in a metal channel in the door and can be slowly fed along the top and forward edges, the trailing edge and bottom then needs to be pressed in with a blunt screwdriver a couple of mm at a time. Halfway through the first door I'd already torn the edge of my thumbnail off and the blood wasn't even a good lubricant.
Reproduction ones aren't shaped to the door and a reputedly even worse to fit, hence my reusing the originals.
I also fitted the rest of the door handles.
The rear ones go on without too much of a fuss but the front's require you to have tiny hands that bend backwards to get to the linkages. Would have been fine with the window winding mech out, but I wasn't pulling that out...
Briefly flirted with the idea of replacing the door membranes and then couldn't be arsed and just taped the old ones back in.
Now thoroughly bored with mess with doors I replaced the rocker cover gasket, set the valve clearances, replaced the engine bay fuel line with a single length of hose and replaced the oil cap with a less leak prone example.
Note my highly professional Coke bottle breather catch tub. Originally the rocker cover vented to the carb, but the new carb lacks the required fitting. Presumably on 1275 A Series engines it vented into the air box or something.
I then drove it to Linlithgow to meet some fellow old car nuts, about 40 miles each way. When I set off it was pinging like fuck under throttle so I pulled over and retarded the timing. Then it bogged like fuck under throttle so I advanced it. After that it ran alright.
There is now timing mark on this crank pulley, I think fwd cars had another set up for timing. So it's a case of just setting it by ear and test drives. The book figures are fairly redundant with modern fuels anyway.
At one point the dash did fall off going over a bump. Apparently I either only put it in with one bolt out of four or I used two out of four and one came loose.
Then I rolled around in the gutter a bit replacing fuel pipe clips. That was fun.
Then some mates popped over and we got the front bumper fitted.
Rear bumper still AWOL as I need to acquire suitably long bolts.
Glad to see my efforts at making it hold oil are proving fruitful...
Was to be away on holiday to England in this on Sunday. lol nope.
Oil full of bronze. Massive crank float. Gone done ate a thrust washer.
Shimmed thrust washers was always going to be a gamble, but we figured we'd get a few thousand miles out of it. Nope, 300.
My theory is that the shims got hot enough to warp, forcing the thrust washer into constant contact with the crank face causing massively fast wear. New theory is making custom solid bronze alloy thrust washers on a recently acquired CNC machine.
Way back when we first realised nowhere sold oversized thrust washers big enough for my needs I went around some machine shops, but unless I was ordering 5,000 of them it wasn't worth their time. At least this was spotted quickly and the crank/block will hopefully be undamaged.
Also the paint never went hard. So it's joined the Acclaim on the "needs another respray" list...
Most of the oil leak was coming from the head, retorqued that and the problem was solved. Still got a bit of seepage around the sump, but given that has to come off to sort the bottom end again... Y'know. Whatever.
Got the rear bumper on too. That was fun* on my own.
This remains busted. A mate of mine has been upgrading his CNC machine to make bespoke thrust washers for it.
In the meantime I had a shot at sanding/polishing the paint shrink back out of it.
I am very much a noob at this, having never sanded paint I intended to keep or wielded a machine polisher before, but hopefully it'll turn out fairly presentable.
I also re-silvered the front grilles with a silver Sharpie...
Not a bad result for £2.70 and 30mins.
I do miss driving it, even if other motorists seem intent on driving me off the road or simply driving into it (my neighbour reversed into it not even an hour ago...). I am quite glad I wasn't in a massive rush to get it back together for driving down to England though, I was really struggling for time...