Probably the best driving roads in the world. Part II
Probably the best driving roads in the world. Part II
After the Col de Turini we headed to our hostel in Menton, which is only a few kilometers away from Italian border, and also conveniently close to Monaco, where we spent couple of hours. When coming to the intersection just before the famous tunnel Bugatti Veyron actually stopped and let me go first, even though he had the right of way. And then he gave a bit of gas in the tunnel, just enough so we could her "BWAAAAAAARB" and that was it. Sadly the road was closed only a few hundred meters after the tunnel, because the first F1 transport trucks had already invaded the harbor area.
In the morning we had to go to the highway first time after leaving Germany. We wanted to cruise along the coast to La Spezia in Italy, but it would have taken way too much time, around 7 hours, while on the highway it was just 3 hours. Sadly the highway turned out to be rather expensive also, exactly 10 euros per 100km, so 27 euros.
La Spezia was just a waypoint, from there we took the small roads over the north Apennine Mountains to Modena.
Most of roads were very typical mountain roads with some hairpins and slow trucks bogging down our progress. They got much better before the Modena though. Smooth curvy tarmac through beautiful landscape with nice elevation changes and fast corners with some additional second gear hairpins were proper fun. Our plan was to descent to Maranello, which lies directly after the mountains on a huge couple of hundred kilometers long plain which goes across the whole northern Italy. These are the roads seen often in Ferrari test drive videos and also in the beginning of Clarkson's Italian Job DVD.
Sadly my TomTom decided to invent its own roads and in the end we missed Maranello by 20 kilometers. But to be honest I wasn't that disappointed to see the newest Ferrari-branded crap and cheap looking restaurants surviving only because of the Ferrari-clothed tourists coming to check out cars they can never afford. I've done this myself, so I'm allowed to say it aloud
In Modena I met a good friend of mine, who had kindly booked us to a Lamborghini factory tour. It's 30 euros if you're a student, but worth it. It lasted around 1,5 hours and most of the time was spent around the Aventador production line. We got to see guy installing piston into the cylinder block, people cutting and sewing leather together and finally installing various bits and pieces in to the chassis and suspension. We also got to see the parking place for cars waiting for delivery, and at the time there was some Gallardos, 13 Aventadors (matte white one is just magnificent) and a 458 Italia as a surprise. Apparently Ferrari and Lamborghini do loan their newest models to each other, because it's just the most convenient way of seeing what the others are doing, and it would happen anyway. And yes, photographing during the tour was extremely forbidden, and because Lamborghini is nowadays owned by Audi, it's German
Verboten, which is a very serious way of forbidding.
For the 30 euros you also get an access to the museum where this really production ready Estoque prototype was.
Then we headed to Lago di Garda. Our plan was to drive along the coast of the lake to Riva del Garda on northern corner of the lake, but we were running short on time to get to the hostel before 10PM when the check-in was going to close, so we had to stay on the autostrada as long as we could.
Early in the morning we left beautiful and surprisingly tourist free Riva del Garda and headed north for the climax of our journey: Stelvio Pass. Sadly about 50km before the beginning of the pass we saw a disappointing sign: "Passo dello Stelvio closed". Down here we were getting burned by the sun, but at the altitude of 2,7 kilometers the winter was still going on and the road lied under a thick layer of snow. We hoped that the italians would be just too slow to update the signs, but even right before the entrance to the pass the message was still the same.
We took a quick coffee pause and thought what to do. We already had a hostel in Davos, so our only way was to get around the Stelvio, and the most
convenient twisty way was first through Ofenpass and then to Livigno, which I had heard from Alok's great article on
Speedhunters.
The way to Livigno goes on a dam which costs 12 euros, but at least we got to see some other cars going there. The Z06 had really epic soundtrack!
The 12 euros toll wasn't that bad, because we could fill up the car with nice 1,092eur/l 95E gas. The village is totally tax free!
Just as free of taxes it was from water! This was supposed to be a lake...
Then we continued south to the Bernina Pass.
The Bernina Pass had some of the feel of Stelvio, but without the epic vertical drops. Really nice road nonetheless.
After the Bernina Pass the road settled down as we headed to west to the direction of St. Moritz and then to north on a totally straight country road full of traffic. We knew the epic roads were over. From Davos we would continue to north through Lichtenstein and then to back to Germany. Little did we know, that the road connecting this large and boring road 28 would be something we could have never expected.
I had actually never thought why in Top Gear's "Greatest Driving Road in the World" film they said "From Davos to Stelvio" because the fun parts lie on the italian side of the border? Well, the road from this big road to Davos is called Fl?elapass, so it should mean some curves. And it really didn't disappoint. Going first quickly through surprisingly Finland-like area of pine trees while steadily ascending and finally leaving the trees behind it was proper quick and twisty driving heaven, finished with a smooth tarmac only the Swiss can make.
When the sunlight turned to beautiful golden colour we arrived to this deserted valley in the middle of nowhere. Between two massive inclines there were only two twisty lines through the rocks, a small river and black curvy tarmac. Compared to Stelvio the Fl?elapass is much quicker with only a few hairpins and the whole rhythm of the road is different. It's more made for an italian supercar than Impreza or an Evo, but it worked superbly also with an MX-5. Quick curves meant we could keep the speed up through the pass while only slowing down to admire the views and take some pictures.
I've done Stelvio in 2007 and I do agree it's one of the most memorable roads in the world. Compared to the Fl?elapass, I'd say as a driving road te Stelvio nowhere as good. You do get bored of the hairpins at some point, while the Fl?ela has more interesting selection of different curves and instead of steady uphill and then downhill it has some elevation changes along the way. It was by far the most suprising road on the whole trip and it more than deserved to be the last one.
We woke up in a cloudy and rainy Davos and got out of beautiful, but ridiculously expensive (Greetings (to) Lip
) Switzerland and headed back to Germany through the ordinary roads. It was the only totally rainy day during the whole trip, but it didn't matter anymore. Probably the greatest roads in Europe were behind us. Until the next trip.
Oh, and the car. This trip increased the mileage I've done in the MX-5 by 30%, so I was a bit worried how it would work, especially because the poor little engine really had to work for its living during mountain passes.
On the other hand it would break because of being constantly trashed to the redline, it wouldn't be suitable engine for a little roadster. But it never missed a beat and only once rose the water temperature by a bit. After being on full throttle in first gear for minutes we got stuck behind a Fiat Punto which did about 1,2 km/h and that killed my idea of letting the whole engine bay cool down a bit by cruising and letting the wind blow through.
The only thing that broke on the car was the fuel filter cap opening cable. With fuel gauge showing empty that caused some worry before I realized you can open the cap from the trunk as well. At that point I also realized the cable snapped off because of pushing too much stuff to the the trunk. Yeah, the trunk could be a bit bigger, but in the end you can jus save weight and leave some random junk at home!