More jobs done today. I received my package from Smartmods yesterday, which included a 3.5mm adapter cable for the radio. It just plugs in to the back of the radio as if it was a CD changer. I then ran the cable under the radio and out of the hole that usually houses a dummy switch. It shows up as Aux, I don't know if it's intelligent enough to know this is an aux cable or if it always did that even with a CD changer. I also got the radio removal keys from Smartmods.
I have some grommets on order so I can drill the dummy switch and mount it properly and then get a spare dummy switch to convert back to factory if required. I may route it in another way, I still don't know where to mount my phone yet or if I will be using a Bluetooth receiver.
Next I wanted to have a look at the headlight mechanisms and see what screws needed rust treatment or replacing. I didn't have to remove the frunk tray for this but did so anyway so I could get some photos for you lot and see what needed cleaning here too. So here's what hides beneath the plastic:
Not bad but it needs going over with some engine degreaser, that's on the list of jobs. It's all very neat in there, with the ABS modulator, steering rack and PAS motor and battery all down there together. It does actually have a radiator at the front which surprised me at first. Mostly rust free, which is nice and it's interesting that all of those wires are individually earthed at the same point.
Anyway, headlights. The trim came off easier than I expected after removing the two screws, I've read horror stories about the trims breaking when people attempt to pull them off. Needs a clean and those rusty screws need sorting.
Plastic headlight frame made by our dear friends in Slovenia!
The real reason I was in here was to try out the LHD/RHD swapping, mainly out of curiosity but also so I can switch it over come Ringmeet, despite not expecting to use the lights I could do without the hassle of getting caught with them configured incorrectly and as it turns out it's an easy job to change them. Screws out, whole assembly out. I love Torx screws...
The lamp unit is held in with three screws, one of which has to be removed and the other two loosened for swapping beam patterns. This is where the screw that has to be removed lives, it's hard to see here but it has labels: L/D and R/D for the two positions. Confusingly, this isn't the side the steering wheel is on but the side of the road it's being driven on.
The two side screws not shown have to be loosened enough to allow this tab to release. Screws were rusty but came out fine thanks to the wonders of Torx. I'm going to get some Evapo-rust.
Final job, sort the roof runners out. The roof seemed to be lacking in lubrication, sometimes sticking when going down and struggling when coming back up. It appears that spray lithium grease was used and I've never really liked the stuff. I read on Evilution about using lithium-based LM grease, so I got my hands on a tub. It isn't exactly what I was expecting, appearing more grey than clear due to the moly content but having completed this job I can say that it does work.
First off I cleaned the roof runners out with a steam cleaner and old toothbrush, before getting rid of any remaining grease and water with paper towels.
This is the good stuff, technically sold as CV grease but also as multi-purpose and it seems to do the job well here. Applied using a cut down paintbrush and the toothbrush again after old grease was steam cleaned and wiped off.
Both runners were done...
...before grease was added to the fixed part of the runner in the back of the car using the toothbrush (right side shown here behind seat).
After opening and closing the roof a few times it seems much freer, some excess grease has been pushed out in certain areas but I would rather have that happen than not have enough. There are no areas where the grease can become pressurised and cause damage.
Next I need to look at the door seals. I have bottles of both Liqui-Moly rubber care (gummi pflege) and 303 UV protectant on order to arrive tomorrow (yes Sunday, kind of feel bad for the Amazon delivery driver) as I can't decide which one I prefer and need to test them. The 303 product has the ability to protect the rear windows from UV as and when I get them refurbished, so I was always going to buy it anyway.
Also I realised that my earlier thinking was wrong, the front bumper has suffered from yellowing as you can see in the first photo of the headlight assembly and the protected parts match the headlight trim perfectly. I'll get my hands on a magic eraser and see if that has any effect, then move up to
Retrobrite as used on old yellowing PC cases and see if that has any difference. The 303 product or Gtechniq C4 will then protect it from UV.