Overfilled my oil and got froth. Completely flush? Just drain excess?

Twerp128

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First, why is oil black after a five minute drive.

Second, what the hell kind of auto store accidentally stocks used oil, presumably in a new jug?

Third, how do you accidentally buy and use old oil? It's like accidentally buying used toilet paper.
 

Spectre

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Wow, I got to say a recommendation for anything Valvoline surprises me.

TID - what is this? I'm not questioning your Spectre, but I'm curious what your source(s) are for inspection data or is it simply 'original research' i.e. your experience as a mechanic?
First of all, Valvoline has been making quality products for decades, so you shouldn't be surprised.

Next, here is an article explaining what TID is, where you get it, and how to interpret it: http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

Here is the current TID from Valvoline on their 'Premium Conventional Motor Oil' product (which is their lowest level product and was formerly known as 'All-Climate Oil'.)


Here's the one for Mobil Clean 5000, Mobil's lowest product.


Now, here's the one for Castrol GTX. Notice all the omissions.


There's a reason for that. If you go look at the now-outdated data in the first link of this post, you'll note that Castrol GTX (despite manufacturer claims) really sucked in many areas (like, you know, actually lubricating your bearings) compared to not a few of its contemporaries, and especially in the 20W50 class I pay the most attention to. Well, after that document got out and their phone switchboard started melting down, Castrol decided to stop posting most of the TID for their oils because it was being used to call BS on their marketing claims for GTX.

Castrol is not to be trusted, for this and because of what they did with Syntec.

And this should prove that no, all oils are not the same - they do tend to fall into several bands of performance, but some have other properties that make them useful for some applications, others have superior performance, and then there's Castrol's garbage. But you need not take my word for it; if you read that first link you now have the tools to go look for yourself. Motorcyclists take note - due to formulation changes since that article was written, we can't use car oils in wet clutch bikes any more, so don't use the article's info to compare bike oils to car oils.
 
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JohnSpain

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Thanks for the post Spectre. I'll dig into the links you posted and look for good dino or blend choice.

What ever I decided on, I'll fill slightly-too-high, take the same 5min. drive, and then bleed off the overfill and see what it looks like. Will probably have to wait for spring though, as the 5min. drive also involved sitting in a hot parking lot for a couple of hours.

Thanks for the posts.
 

GRtak

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Why would you overfill it on purpose? Just fill it up and pull the dipstick to look at the oil. While this will not give you a look at what is in the bottom of the pan, it will give you a glance at the oil.
 

Spectre

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Yeah, overfilling is pretty dumb. Don't do it again.
 

v0od0o

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I guess I fell victim to the mineral to synth switch myth myself and even helped perpetuate it. Looking further into it everything credible I can find says the switch should be fine.

Although I did develop a valve cover gasket leak on the E36 a couple of months after I switched to synthetic oil, must have been a coincidence.
 

Twerp128

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^I got it in the Miata as well. A valve cover gasket is quite different than say a head gasket though. . .
 
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