Random Thoughts... [Automotive Edition]

About a year ago, the coil wire in the airbag slip ring in my dad's Saxo disintegrated. Ever since the part was removed, he lost turn singal self-cancellation, which, combined with the fact he's over 60 and slightly senile, got him into a few hairy situations.

Anyway, we've been meaning to get that fixed for a while now, but no auto shop seems to have the exact part we need. The scrapyards for the most part don't want to bother with finding that part, and those that still do, don't have the part either. I even checked eBay, there's one guy selling the part we need, and he wants like €100 for it, with no shipping even specified.

I did find the part on German eBay for less than €25, but it doesn't ship to Croatia. As my German is quite rusty and never was great in the first place, could some of the German members (or members who speak German in general) help me translate the description of the ad? From what I understand, it does mention shipping, but I can't really understand what exactly does it say.

I tried contacting the seller, but eBay won't let me do it for some reason.
 
About a year ago, the coil wire in the airbag slip ring in my dad's Saxo disintegrated. Ever since the part was removed, he lost turn singal self-cancellation, which, combined with the fact he's over 60 and slightly senile, got him into a few hairy situations.

Anyway, we've been meaning to get that fixed for a while now, but no auto shop seems to have the exact part we need. The scrapyards for the most part don't want to bother with finding that part, and those that still do, don't have the part either. I even checked eBay, there's one guy selling the part we need, and he wants like €100 for it, with no shipping even specified.

I did find the part on German eBay for less than €25, but it doesn't ship to Croatia. As my German is quite rusty and never was great in the first place, could some of the German members (or members who speak German in general) help me translate the description of the ad? From what I understand, it does mention shipping, but I can't really understand what exactly does it say.

I tried contacting the seller, but eBay won't let me do it for some reason.
Might be a stupid question but have you asked the Citroën (or Peugeot) dealer? Unless it's prohibitively expensive I would just not bother with finding junkyard parts.

Anything related to airbags, seatbelts, restraint systems etc is a dealer-only part, at least here in Finland. Goes for all makes and models.
 
The local Peugeot dealer, yes, as there's no Citroën dealer in our town. I will try to contact the Croatian Citroën importer, or some o the dealers in the capital, I hope they should have the part.

Thanks for the info!
 
About a year ago, the coil wire in the airbag slip ring in my dad's Saxo disintegrated. Ever since the part was removed, he lost turn singal self-cancellation, which, combined with the fact he's over 60 and slightly senile, got him into a few hairy situations.

Anyway, we've been meaning to get that fixed for a while now, but no auto shop seems to have the exact part we need. The scrapyards for the most part don't want to bother with finding that part, and those that still do, don't have the part either. I even checked eBay, there's one guy selling the part we need, and he wants like €100 for it, with no shipping even specified.

I did find the part on German eBay for less than €25, but it doesn't ship to Croatia. As my German is quite rusty and never was great in the first place, could some of the German members (or members who speak German in general) help me translate the description of the ad? From what I understand, it does mention shipping, but I can't really understand what exactly does it say.

I tried contacting the seller, but eBay won't let me do it for some reason.
The important part says the item was taken out of a car that had an accident. The ad claims the item had worked flawlessly until it was taken out of that car.

Oh, and price is (currently?) €23.65, shipping cost is ~ €6.

The auction ends in a few hours. If you need a German proxy buyer, we can arrange something, either me or someone else who already has an ebay account. :D

Apart from that: what @Perc said.
 
An e-mail to the Citroën importer has been sent. I assume if the part from German eBay won't be sold until this afternoon, it will get relisted. So I'll wait until the importer replies to me. Fingers crossed they have the right part for a price that's not too crazy, but if they don't, I'll see what my options will be.

Anyway, thanks for translating it and for offering a proxy service! In case I need the eBay part, I'll post about it in this thread! :)
 
An e-mail to the Citroën importer has been sent.

You’re making this awfully difficult. Why not just go to your local Citroën dealer? This is what they’re for.

edit: I see there’s no Citroen dealer in your town but since your car is a rebadged Peugeot 106, the Peugeot dealer should be able to help you. The parts number will be the same across both brands.

You could also try giving your closest Citroën dealer a call. Who says it needs to be in your town?
 
While seraching for a Citroën dealership or service on the Croatian Citroën website, it directed me towards the nearest dealership, which is some 50 km away, so I figured it'd be easier and quicker to just find an e-mail address than trying to rush to get there within an hour of them closing. As for why importer rather than the specific dealer? That's the only contact mail address the Citroën website had.

I do admit, only now it occured to me that I could've googled the specific dealer and contacted them directly. Alas, I might still give them a ring on Monday, or even pay them a visit, but if a 50 km journey in one way can be avoided by just contacting them by telephone or e-mail, I'd rather do that.
 
Okay, called the Citroën service, and they say the part is no longer being made, and they don't have it in stock. Which means the relisted eBay part is probably my only option at the moment.

Since I didn't find any better option this morning, I decided I'll go with the eBay part, through a German buyer who'd be willing to be a proxy buyer. So @DanRoM, if the offer is still valid, just PM me your preferred payment method, so we could arrange everything. :)

One more thing. The seller accepts best offers, and eBay says I've received an offer of €20 by the seller, as shown in my screenshot below. So perhaps trying to give a €20 offer wouldn't hurt. I know I wouldn't be saving much, but then, I don't think I have anything to lose, as the worst that can happen is the offer being declined. I'm aware that I'm being a bit of a cheapskate, but in the end, it's my father paying for the part, so I thought saving him a few Euros would be a nice gesture.

1607330606463.png
 
Just send that guy an offer for 20 Euros. :)
 
From an European point of view, I find the average North American's idea of what you need to tow a trailer pretty fascinating. Here's some guy testing the towing capabilities of a modern V6 minivan using a tiny household trailer with a motorcycle on it, and finding that the Honda is struggling.


Meanwhile, here's me towing a load that probably is twice as heavy (around 1.2 tons I think) using a tow vehicle that's comparable in size and weight, with comparable brakes. It has less peak power but I'm guessing more torque at a lower rpm. Still 0.7 tons left of the rated towing capacity, too. I can't say my car felt like it was anywhere near "struggling". It could do that all day.

IMG_7382.jpeg
 
I think the big difference is the speed at which North Americans tow and also the tongue weight of the trailer they use.
 
You need 300hp for the on-ramps, otherwise, it's just UNSAFE.

This. Euros will let you merge in on the highway, americans don’t give a shit. Also onramps can be ridiculously short sometimes, so yeah, 300 hp
Plz
 
Towing mentioned.

PSX_20201220_081704.jpg


Honestly, at least out here in flyover land, people will get over for you to merge onto the highway. I tend to be at 60-65 by the end of the ramp, making it easier to do so. But sometimes you just can't, then it's sort of up to you to monitor the traffic on the highway and adjust your speed to find a spot to merge in, this goes for everytime you enter a highway, not just when towing.
 
From an European point of view, I find the average North American's idea of what you need to tow a trailer pretty fascinating. Here's some guy testing the towing capabilities of a modern V6 minivan using a tiny household trailer with a motorcycle on it, and finding that the Honda is struggling.


Meanwhile, here's me towing a load that probably is twice as heavy (around 1.2 tons I think) using a tow vehicle that's comparable in size and weight, with comparable brakes. It has less peak power but I'm guessing more torque at a lower rpm. Still 0.7 tons left of the rated towing capacity, too. I can't say my car felt like it was anywhere near "struggling". It could do that all day.

View attachment 3559612

*reads current replies minus @CraigB's*

Ah, cool, another Europe vs America debate with only European replies giving their opinions for both.

**********

The difference here starts with federal restrictions and rules about how you load a trailer. Here in North America, trailer weight is distributed more forward of the trailer axles which helps reduce trailer sway and reducing the need for those sway bars you see on some trailers, that's where "tongue weight" comes in, how much weight you can press against the hitch ball and rear of the vehicle you're towing with. There are some contradictions here of course, we would have have US regulations without that. What happens when you tow a car? Should we break out a scale? Well, hopefully whatever you're towing can accommodate your decision to just wing it which from what I have experienced over the years is what people do. With that said, smaller, less capable vehicles will struggle much sooner like what you saw in that video. The driver of the van did not his trailer balanced properly hence why he had sway, if you have more of the weight on the trailer central or farther back of the trailer axles, you can sway much easier than if you had the weight more central/forward. This now gets us to the subject vehicle suspension, can the vehicle's rear suspension system handle the extra weight? Typically a family oriented vehicle's suspension is not set up for towing, it's meant for ride comfort which is why they will sag a lot farther than an SUV or pickup truck. Plus, the gearing for the car is meant for fuel economy, not towing, so you'll have the family van in this example aim for the highest gear at the lowest RPM, we've now fucked that up by putting half to 3/4 of a ton behind it which, as you saw, it can manage, but it hops between gears because you're going into overdrive gearing. highway gears aren't designed to manage a ton of weight as it's meant for being on the highway with little resistance to maintain 60-70mph. This was something I remember a guy I was riding with towing a 2.5 ton trailer with in a borrowed GMC dually pickup. Set the vehicle on cruise and if you didn't have it in "tow/haul" mode, it would try and shift into overdrive, work for a little while and then as soon as you saw a tiny incline, it would upshift/downshift/upshift/downshift. Not good to do often of course. The engine is the least of our worries here, a mid-tier V6 is not the issue here.

If I remember right (probably not), the rules in Europe put more weight on the trailer and make the trailer carry as much of the weight. This is also why I think the sway bars are basically a requirement because of where the weight is, you are more susceptible to have trailer sway.

Further, from what I have seen and read, uni-body cars and body on frames with a large crumple zone in the frame have much lower restrictions because they say the frames/body's cannot handle the higher weight, whether that's true or not is of course up for debate because we know that some of these cars in Europe can handle a lot more. When I had a couple of Jeep Patriots (not yours @CraigB!), I was able to tow a good half a ton or so without issues, even without the tow package which adds a transmission cooler. Would that have been nice? Sure, did it mean I couldn't tow? no, but I wouldn't try this in an area with lots of hills or be close to the 1 ton tow rating? probably not a good idea unless I want to kill the transmission, this was on the CVT by the way.

Personal experience from people I have dealt with over the years, as soon as they can "feel" the weight behind them of towing a trailer, they assume that the vehicle is "struggling" when it absolutely isn't. YOU'RE TOWING SOMETHING HEAVY, OF COURSE YOU'LL NOTICE. Anyone who has moved house notices the moving van they have requiring more braking distance to slow down and longer range to get up to speed, welcome to hauling loads. My brother would help a buddy out moving his 24 foot (convert it yourself) pontoon boat from a nearby river boat slip to storage each season. I have helped him a few times in his 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 (the supposed "half ton" version). Yeah, it's slower to take off from a traffic light, it takes longer to stop, no shit, you're towing a heavy boat. The trailer had gravity brakes meaning when you braked, the force of the trailer pushing forward meant the brakes on the trailer would then be applied. You felt a clunk and then notice it slowing down with you instead of feeling all that weight on you and your vehicle's brakes. Google tells me this sort of boat with trailer is around 1.2 tons. The truck a 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500, has a max tongue weight of 0.5 tons and 5.1 tons total trailer weight. So we are way under the max limit. With this, you did notice a freaking boat was behind you and my brother wants a bigger truck to handle the load better, even though he's fine.

I would also like to point that North America (reminder, it's not just the USA that has these type of restrictions) and as a personal driving license allows, at least in the USA, you can own and drive a Ford F-350 that can tow a trailer of 16 tons. Another debate for another thread of course.

Simply put, while we can tow most things most people would need, there is this idea that I think is partially a culture issue and consumerism problem where "more/bigger is better" is king, we're not penalized as far as speed restrictions, licenses, and vehicle size limitations for navigating the country, why wouldn't you? It's also why you will see a lot of European folk that immigrate here get the large vehicle for the same reason the rest of us do, why wouldn't you? If the worst of it all is the vehicle price, as well as perhaps insurance and running costs are higher, people don't see those as a worse enough risk to keep them away.

One last thing would you tow the same thing now through mountainous/hilly areas with the same confidence? Probably not which weirdly is how it's always brought to people here, even if you never leave the midwest which you can nearly see the curvature of the earth it's so flat here. I wanted to link a really well done article Jalopnik did called "Tow Me Down" but the link is dead that will basically state the same things here. North American federal restrictions are different from European, there's more personal vehicle restrictions an individual can own than we do as well as road rules.
 
I would also like to point that North America (reminder, it's not just the USA that has these type of restrictions) and as a personal driving license allows, at least in the USA, you can own and drive a Ford F-350 that can tow a trailer of 16 tons. Another debate for another thread of course.

Quick clarification on this (at least the way I understand the law). A commercial drivers license (CDL) isn't required until the combined gross vehicle weight rating (CGVWR) tops 26,000 lbs/~11.800 kg. I.E. if you have a pickup that has a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of 10,000 lbs/~4.500 kg and it's towing a trailer with a 16,000 GVWR. You won't need a CDL. But if the trailer or truck has a GVWR of just 1 lb/~0,5 kg more, you'll need a CDL.

This is why you see so many class 5 trucks that are advertised as below CDL, they have a weight rating of 26,000 lbs/~11.800 kg. Now, if you hooked a trailer to the truck, you'd need a CDL at that point.

This has caught many a racer out. Thinking that as long as they didn't weight 26,001 lbs/~11.800,5 kg or more, they didn't need a CDL, even if the CGVWR exceeded the CDL limit.
 
Our GVWR limit for a "normal" driving license is 3.5 tons. This is a bit of a topic in the RV community nowadays. I happen to know these things because my parents are caravanners.

Lots of RV:s in the "upper mid segment" are registered as 3.5 tons to attract as many potential customers as possible, but the loading capacity is abysmal. Add a couple bottles of propane, a brimmed fresh water tank, a full tank of diesel, a grill, two bicycles, food supplies for a week and whatnot and you'll quickly exceed the 3500kg limit. Most people don't care, until the cops pull them in to a weighing station of course. :p

Pretty much all American pickup trucks on our road these days are registered as light trucks, over 3500kg. The road tax is very favorable, but there's a nasty 90km/h speed governor ruining the fun.
 
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