Random Thoughts... [Photographic Edition]

nomix

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Tend do walk the 40 meters from my bed to lecture.
I would not be suprised if Jeremy Clarkson's teacher was called Ren Kockwell.
 

nomix

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For fun..

The Olympus E-3.. party safe!

 

nomix

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No problem, just put it under the sink and wash it.

What would worry me most if I were to do that is that Bud light is of course less dense than water, and even if the camera probably survives water, the chances that bud light might penetrate the weather sealing would be extreme.

Diamonds -> rocks -> concrete -> steel -> copper -> wood -> cloth -> Guinness -> milk -> lager -> water -> helium -> bud light.
 

marcos_eirik

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No problem, just put it under the sink and wash it.

What would worry me most if I were to do that is that Bud light is of course less dense than water, and even if the camera probably survives water, the chances that bud light might penetrate the weather sealing would be extreme.

Diamonds -> rocks -> concrete -> steel -> copper -> wood -> cloth -> Guinness -> milk -> lager -> water -> helium -> bud light.
Guinness should be before wood... :lol:

On annother note, that's not your E-3 is it? Because that's with the 12-60/2,8-4...?
 

Ramseus

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GAH! Colour profiles are bugging me.

How come:

I download pictures off camera, open in camera raw -> photoshop. Colour profile is default to Adobe RGB (1998). If I change the colour profile to sRGB IEC61966-2.1 the gamma obviously changes and the colours change. Gay, but expected I guess. HOWEVER, if I copy the image and bring it into a new file the colours and everything remain exactly the same, even though the new file is defaulted to using sRGB as the profile, and if I set sRGB as the embedded profile nothing changes. What?

But now that I'm aware of this (although from time to time when I have an image that has cororfur corors I notice it) I see that I might as well change the profile in ACR to sRGB instead of Adobe RGB since that would get rid of all this trouble. And ACR automatically makes the adjustments so that no matter what profile you select the results look the same.

*sigh*


edit: also, ACR's default is to render 8-bit images. Any reason not to make it do 16-bit?
 
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nomix

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Guinness should be before wood... :lol:

On annother note, that's not your E-3 is it? Because that's with the 12-60/2,8-4...?
It's not. Found it on flickr. :)
 

phuckingduck

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GAH! Colour profiles are bugging me.

How come:

I download pictures off camera, open in camera raw -> photoshop. Colour profile is default to Adobe RGB (1998). If I change the colour profile to sRGB IEC61966-2.1 the gamma obviously changes and the colours change. Gay, but expected I guess. HOWEVER, if I copy the image and bring it into a new file the colours and everything remain exactly the same, even though the new file is defaulted to using sRGB as the profile, and if I set sRGB as the embedded profile nothing changes. What?

But now that I'm aware of this (although from time to time when I have an image that has cororfur corors I notice it) I see that I might as well change the profile in ACR to sRGB instead of Adobe RGB since that would get rid of all this trouble. And ACR automatically makes the adjustments so that no matter what profile you select the results look the same.

*sigh*


edit: also, ACR's default is to render 8-bit images. Any reason not to make it do 16-bit?
I hate color profiles too. I'll be damned if I'm going to put in the extra work just to make sure my picture looks right on the interwebs though :p
 

hansvonaxion

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I download pictures off camera, open in camera raw -> photoshop. Colour profile is default to Adobe RGB (1998). If I change the colour profile to sRGB IEC61966-2.1 the gamma obviously changes and the colours change.
How are you changing the profile? You should be using "convert to profile" to avoid colour change.

I've used Adobe RGB since I bought my camera but I am slowly being convinced to ditch it in favour of sRGB.


edit: also, ACR's default is to render 8-bit images. Any reason not to make it do 16-bit?
No, 65,536 values for each channel instead of only 256 is why I use 16bit. If you shoot RAW it doesn't matter cos you can always go back later if you need to.
 
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Top Geek

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I was browsing through website designs for ideas and came across Modern Editions. I surfed around a bit and... holy cow! $300, $500, $2,800 for a print? Sure, they're pretty big prints, but really?

There are certainly some good photos there, but, for example, who would pay $300 (or any amount of money) for something like this? OK, it's sharp, it's balanced, it's technically correct; but, the last word I would use to describe it is "inspiring".
 

mgkdk

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^ That's just crazy :? I would rather take one of my own that's 'crappier' and put that on my wall, at least I would have some connection to that photo.
 

sifu

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been there done that.. atm i have 4 50x70cm pics on the wall and two a4-size pics also.. all framed and even though they are not perfect from pro point of view, i like em and have "emotional" bond with em because i know where and when i have taken em. . .
 

the Interceptor

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Something I noticed: since I've fone from crop to full frame, it is obvious that the depth of field has become much more shallow (not that I didn't know this before, I just didn't think it were this extreme). That said, I've begun to doubt the reasonability of wide-open shooting. Of course, a wide-open lens will give me a great DOF effect, but if I don't want that effect, I'm still stuck with it especially in close-up shots. Therefore, I've begun to question the need for low-light-wide-aperture-lenses for my camera.

Thoughts?
Stop down! :p

It's always better to have the more flexible lens. If you decided to go all f5.6 you'd inevitably have a shot where you want shallow DOF and you'll have a DOH! moment.
I tried, but the DOF still is horrid. Take this one for example:



This is at 35mm. The background already is pretty blurred, and that's at f/8.0! :blink:
 

Top Geek

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^ What's wrong with that?

Keep in mind, you can stop down further on full-frame without hitting diffraction (I think it starts at f/16 or f/22 or something; you start hitting it past f/11 on DX).

If I make a similar picture at 23mm on DX, it looks pretty close to that as far as DOF goes.
 
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Ramseus

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umm... the headphones and amp are all in focus... why would you want that background to be in focus, exactly? If you really really want the background to be within the depth of field, get a compact :p
 

the Interceptor

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Maybe I just need to get used to it, I don't know. I just know that f/8 on my DXs always was plenty sharp at almost every depth, and now I struggle to get some decent sharpness below f/8.
 
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