Random thoughts.... [Tech Edition]

I just bought this one and I'm quite happy with it. You can get the same thing in 24" from several manufacturers(probably most using the same panel, for the $220 in your link. Though I just now realized that was Samsung.com, meaning MSRP.
 
My case has those super bright LEDs too, it's way more annoying than it sounds like it would be. Still, easy enough to solve with a piece of tape or something.
 
My case has those super bright LEDs too, it's way more annoying than it sounds like it would be. Still, easy enough to solve with a piece of tape or something.

So does my case, but with a monitor from a huge conglomerate like Samsung you figure maybe they do a bit more research on this stuff. :p

One other thing I hate about my monitor is that it has these touch-sensitive buttons, makes it a bitch to adjust you picture or even just turn on the monitor (I outright turn it off so the stupid LED doesn't keep blinking).
 
Thoughts on these 120hz LCD monitors? What am I loosing(besides more money in my pocket) if I go with a LED backlit one with a 2ms response time?
 
So I just ordered this wireless router and started reading lots of references to DD-WRT and Tomato firmware in the customer reviews, which might as well be written in Swahili for the all the sense it makes to me. So I started reading up on it and now I'm thoroughly confused and half tempted to just cancel my order completely. Can someone try and explain in English what it's really all about and if it's really necessary? The unit says it's "not pre-load", so does that mean I need to "flash" it? Maybe it's just too late and I'm too tired, because I'm just getting ever more baffled trying to make sense of the directions on these firmware sites.

/fails
 
So I just ordered this wireless router and started reading lots of references to DD-WRT and Tomato firmware in the customer reviews, which might as well be written in Swahili for the all the sense it makes to me. So I started reading up on it and now I'm thoroughly confused and half tempted to just cancel my order completely. Can someone try and explain in English what it's really all about and if it's really necessary? The unit says it's "not pre-load", so does that mean I need to "flash" it? Maybe it's just too late and I'm too tired, because I'm just getting ever more baffled trying to make sense of the directions on these firmware sites.

/fails

i think the "Not-pre-loaded" is talking about the dd-wrt -firmware (as it isn't flashed to the device), it should have default linksys firmware inside.
The flashing to DD-WRT/OpenWRT/Tomato is all about how to get the unit more stable (and/or give it more functions like: very-very-very-small-powered http-server [modding of the device needed]).

I run my netgear with its default firmware, and i'm still deciting to change it to dd-wrt for the lulz/stability, But i'm in no rush since my unit seems stable.
 
https://pic.armedcats.net/t/th/thevictor390/2011/03/16/Capture.PNG

I've been trying to troubleshoot my "Windows has detected an IP address conflict" issues.... to start with I worked out all of the MAC addresses in the house and attempted to give them static IPs. Naturally I can only have 10 static IPs. So I chose the important ones and made the assignments. Or so I thought......

I also set up the Lease Time to be 1 day instead of forever. Any other suggestions? Anyone want to buy a slightly used Belkin?

Oh and apparently WLAN vs. LAN is just a dice roll because all but one of those devices are wi-fi. Adding to the fun, the damn thing needs to be power cycled several times after making any changes to that list before it will connect to the internet again.
 
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Did you set up a static IP in windows as well? Even though the MAC assigning should mean the router only gives certain devices certain IPs, if Windows is making a DHCP request it could be confusing the router. Also be sure to clear/restart DHCP.
 
Did you set up a static IP in windows as well? Even though the MAC assigning should mean the router only gives certain devices certain IPs, if Windows is making a DHCP request it could be confusing the router. Also be sure to clear/restart DHCP.

Usually, setting up static IPs in DHCP config is done to avoid having to set up anything on the clients. Otherwise, what would one need the static entries for, other than IP conflict resolution (which could be solved by other means easier, say, setting the DHCP zone beginning in higher IPs than the static have; on my home network, all static IPs are counting up from 192.168.1.10, DHCP is set up to begin at 192.168.1.50)? Also, as far as I know Windows won't allow setting the static IP on a per-network basis, only per-adapter, which is troublesome if a device is used on multiple wireless networks.

That said, this would be exactly my advice in this situation. Set up the devices that only use this one network with static IPs in a certain area (say, 192.168.1.1-.1.10) on the client side (in Windows). Maybe add a static DHCP entry for them in the router, but it shouldn't be necessary. Then configure DHCP to give out addresses outside of that area to all other devices.
 
That's a good idea to start assigning the dynamic IPs in a higher range. Unfortunately the damn assignments need to work first..... I'll give it a day to see why happens with the new expiration settings.

As far as restarting DHCP, the router reboots itself when I apply any changes at that screen. Then it sits in a braindead state until I power cycle it. Then it wakes up but refuses to connect to the internet until I power cycle it again.
 
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Sigh. Changing the range of dynamically allocated IPs won't work. I get a message that "the reserved IP addresses will be invalidated" - so they have to be in the same range. Today I came home to a slow laggy network (internet and local) so I power cycled it, and as soon as it came back up, got the IP address conflict error again. Resetting the wireless adapter locally seemed to fix it. Looks like it's time to start shopping....
 
Yeah, sounds like that thing's a pile.
 
God damnit, my 9800 GTX has crapped out again almost exactly a year after crapping out the first time which I fixed by baking it in the oven.

Can the same trick fix it again? Fuck it, I should probably just toss it at this point... and buy an ATI card. Or maybe I should just get a new computer, I think this one is about to go in general.
 
Fucking technology. The SD card in my phone corrupted itself last night when I plugged the phone into my PC, and now I find that the disk is riddled with bad sectors. The only really important things on there are the photos I took with the phone, but they're gone now.

I of all people should know to back it up. :(
 
God damnit, my 9800 GTX has crapped out again almost exactly a year after crapping out the first time which I fixed by baking it in the oven.

Can the same trick fix it again? Fuck it, I should probably just toss it at this point... and buy an ATI card. Or maybe I should just get a new computer, I think this one is about to go in general.

I know it's been said many times, but you need to drop the Nvidia hate. A bunch of cards were made poorly has nothing to do with the chipset manufacturer. To this point I've owned three ATI and Two Nvidia cards, and only had problems with the ATIs. Drivers, specifically.
 
God damnit, my 9800 GTX has crapped out again almost exactly a year after crapping out the first time which I fixed by baking it in the oven.

Can the same trick fix it again? Fuck it, I should probably just toss it at this point... and buy an ATI card. Or maybe I should just get a new computer, I think this one is about to go in general.

If you're interested I have a 4890 sitting around here that I don't need.
 
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