Random Thoughts....

GRtak said:
You should only use twice as much as you need, just to make sure. 😉
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Ordinarily, I would agree, but I was jury-rigging a plastic pinion that had split clean in half, so I had to at least pretend to care about the geometry of the end result.

Oh, and about the dripping, because the electric motor that drives the pinion sits right underneath it… and of course, I didn’t think to put a sheet of paper between the two because the glue had been deceptively gloopy.
 
Glue fillers are handy things to have around, I think baking soda works as well with epoxy as it does with CA glue.

The UV-curing resins are ideal for that kind of thing because you can quickly buzz it with UV to harden the outside and stop it dripping. The 3D print resin I have can be used for that I suppose, but it's rather thin so it flows in the printer.
 
Matt2000 said:
Glue fillers are handy things to have around, I think baking soda works as well with epoxy as it does with CA glue.
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Interesting, I might have a use for a glue filler at some point. In this case, however, the plastic pinion was originally cast around a metal nut which in turn is fixed to the drive shaft… fixed very reliably, so I gave up on the idea of removing it and just buying a new complete pinion. Anyway, this makes sense because the rack is also plastic and those two make up the predetermined breaking point of the device, a garage door opener.

A45836DE-832A-4E9A-AC5A-9FFC66C67A59.jpeg

like this one, but white

But of course, there’s no way to put the two plastic halves back around the metal nut because there was never any gap. So I dremeled a gap and some space for glue on the inside of the plastic bits, filled them with epoxy glue and clamped everything back together. And if that doesn’t work and the repairman won’t come for a while, I guess I’ll have to cut a notch around the outside and tie the thing together with some wire.
 
Looks like it would probably be fine if it doesn't slip, If I was doing the same and wasn't confident that the glue would hold I'd probably drill through the gear at the cracked part (drilling a secant through the diameter of it), tap it and put a suitably sized grub screw through.

Wire would also work though and is a bit easier. Or even two little drilled holes on either side and U-shaped staples hammered in to bridge the crack. Lots of ways to bodge it. 😀
 
I just had a conversation with 'an joung person' who claims a Tesla creates just as much emotions as a classic American musclecar......am I old? I must be old.
 
Disgust is an emotion.
Contempt too.
 
Cowboy said:
I just had a conversation with 'an joung person' who claims a Tesla creates just as much emotions as a classic American musclecar......am I old? I must be old.
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People like different things. I like original Pandas and Ka's, as well some nicer BMW's and Mercs, but I hate big trucks and SUVs...
 
When the conversation went on a little he called me a communist......now I'm a lot of things ......
 
Cowboy said:
When the conversation went on a little he called me a communist......now I'm a lot of things ......
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Weird, usually that type of name calling in the US comes from conservative pick up truck redneck people... Anything they disagree with becomes communist.
 
I enjoyed my time with the Model 3 but the fact that I replaced with with an MX-5 probably says a lot.
 
CraigB said:
Something I never thought I need to know.

What sort of sawzall blade do I need to cut this deer's head off the spine?

View attachment 3564746
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Apparently the demolition blade is the correct one.
 
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