Ownership Verified: rickhamilton620's sorta big red box! - 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport

The strut tower repair makes me nervous...

If I didn't hear about the recall i'd have assumed "accident, moving on..." and cut my losses.

Recall procedure: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/ucm424989/rcrit-11v244-5867.pdf

If the damage is too bad, Nissan will buy back the car so I assume that it's not that far gone.

Of course, if he announces that Nissan gave him 5k for it on Monday then I know what happened lol.

EDIT: i reviewed the recall procedure...i'm a bit worried if its far gone or rust is outside the repairable zone. I'll be sure to get a good look at both of these areas during my own walkaround.

EDIT 2: After doing more research, I think I'm gonna bail on this - its not a matter of if it's far gone, but when, even with the recall procedure completed based on forums.
 
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Ok so based on the criteria set out by my bank, here are my contenders so far:

Top 7 (with top 3 at the top, rest in no particular order):

10 Soul - $4500- https://york.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2010-kia-soul-wagon-5-speed/6355075584.html

07 Fusion with 128k - $4999 - https://york.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2007-ford-fusion/6350509904.html

03 Pathfinder SE 4x4 with 141k - $3300 - https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/d/2003-nissan-pathfinder-se-4x4/6368964908.html

05 XG350 with 68k - $4250 - https://york.craigslist.org/cto/d/2005-hyundai-xg350-affordable/6370053239.html

04 Rav4 AWD with 125k - $4900 - https://york.craigslist.org/cto/d/2004-toyota-rav-4-awd/6361440202.html

09 Optima with 106k - $4700 - https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2009-kia-optima-lx-warranty/6365542123.html

03 G35 with 135k - $4750 - https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2003-infiniti-g35-fully/6354153852.html


Follow ups (no particular order):

04 Pontiac Vibe with 138k - $2600 - https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/d/2004-pontiac-vibe-awd/6346719088.html

02 Camry with 135k - $4800 - https://york.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2002-toyota-camry-sedan-le/6369412225.html

05 Scion xB with 148k - $3995 - https://york.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2005-scion-xb/6368742617.html

02 Maxima SE with 134k - $3495 - https://york.craigslist.org/cto/d/2002-nissan-maxima-se/6361546720.html

07 Civic EX with 120k - $4500 - https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/d/2007-honda-civic/6361150815.html

07 CTS with 100k - $3900 - https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/d/2007-cadillac-cts/6361241759.html

The XG350 is so you. And I really like the low miles. But there doesn't seem to be much info on it reliability wise, probably due to sheer lack of numbers....

I do think some of the "beige" ones are worth checking out, like the Optima. Have a car for a few years that doesn't fail catastrophically, and it should open up some funds for something more interesting next time.
 
The repair procedure is pretty good up until the moment they glue in optional bolts and just fiberglass and Bondo the "cosmetic" holes.

It'll slow down the end, but not prevent it.
 
Updated list of top contenders - the G35, brown Optima, and base Soul are no longer on CL.

07 Fusion with 128k - $4999 - https://york.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2007-ford-fusion/6350509904.html

03 Pathfinder SE 4x4 with 141k - $3300 -https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/d/2003-nissan-pathfinder-se-4x4/6368964908.html

05 XG350 with 68k - $4250 - https://york.craigslist.org/cto/d/2005-hyundai-xg350-affordable/6370053239.html

04 Rav4 AWD with 125k - $4900 - https://york.craigslist.org/cto/d/2004-toyota-rav-4-awd/6361440202.html

New: 08 Optima with 104k - $3800 - https://york.craigslist.org/cto/d/2008-kia-optima-lxmiles/6372612580.html


The XG350 is so you. And I really like the low miles. But there doesn't seem to be much info on it reliability wise, probably due to sheer lack of numbers....

I do think some of the "beige" ones are worth checking out, like the Optima. Have a car for a few years that doesn't fail catastrophically, and it should open up some funds for something more interesting next time.

The XG is nice but if the timing belt service has not been done, that's a 1 to 1.5k job.

The repair procedure is pretty good up until the moment they glue in optional bolts and just fiberglass and Bondo the "cosmetic" holes.

It'll slow down the end, but not prevent it.

That's what I'm afraid of. I've discussed with Spectre and will take a look. If the repair paperwork states that it's only a level one repair (no or surface rust detected) then I'll move forward and schedule the PPI.

If it has the bracket, It's a no go. Period.
 
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Forget the Tribute, the automatic transmission is complete garbage, as Spectre will confirm.
 
Forget the Tribute, the automatic transmission is complete garbage, as Spectre will confirm.

Right, forgot about that. Off the list!
 
If I was choosing exclusivly from that list, I?d go for the Rav4 without a second thought.
 
Now my list goes Rav, Path, Fusion
 
If I was choosing exclusively from that list, I?d go for the Rav4 without a second thought.



I think this is gonna be my go to. It's got the safety goods, is reliable and apparently wears really well.
 
Updated list of top contenders - the G35, brown Optima, and base Soul are no longer on CL.

07 Fusion with 128k - $4999 - https://york.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2007-ford-fusion/6350509904.html

03 Pathfinder SE 4x4 with 141k - $3300 -https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/d/2003-nissan-pathfinder-se-4x4/6368964908.html

05 XG350 with 68k - $4250 - https://york.craigslist.org/cto/d/2005-hyundai-xg350-affordable/6370053239.html

04 Rav4 AWD with 125k - $4900 - https://york.craigslist.org/cto/d/2004-toyota-rav-4-awd/6361440202.html

New: 08 Optima with 104k - $3800 - https://york.craigslist.org/cto/d/2008-kia-optima-lxmiles/6372612580.html

Fusion and Optima are significantly overpriced, especially considering the fact that they're in Rustland. In places where that's not an issue, they're still overpriced.

Cases in point:
https://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/ctd/d/2007-ford-fusion/6373059985.html
https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/d/2007-ford-fusion/6331691808.html
https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/d/2008-kia-optimadrive/6368938117.html

That last one? It's a DEALER. And it's $1200 cheaper.

The XG is eXtra Garbage. They didn't hold up well. On top of that, the Sigma V6 3.5L is NOT related to the current and recent past excellent V6s Hyundai's been using. The 3.5L version of the Sigma was only in the US from 01-06 and then Hyundai killed it off as soon as they finished development of the excellent Lambda V6. The Sigma is an orphan engine that Hyundai would rather forget it ever made. Run away from that thing.

Of that list, still Pathfinder then RAV4. The Pathfinder is just a better design and has better running gear than the RAV4; it's also sturdier and is a proper RWD in 2WD mode - plus it has a multispeed locking transfer case and is significantly more powerful. The RAV4 is a a tall Corolla wagon with 'sometimes' AWD.

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I think this is gonna be my go to. It's got the safety goods, is reliable and apparently wears really well.

Yup, going straight for the beige again...

Amusingly... per the Wikipedia page on the XA20:
Notably, the second-generation RAV4 had the highest proportion of female drivers among all makes and models in the United States with the possible exception of the Volkswagen New Beetle, according to 2003?2004 registration and survey data.

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More significantly, you are apparently unaware of the two big nasty problems with the 2.4L 2AZ-FE. First problem - these engines can suddenly decide to burn oil (defective piston ring design) at a rate fast enough to exhaust the crankcase between oil changes. There is a TSB on it (#0094-11) but Toyota refuses to recall the motor or fix the problem at their expense. Owners are left on the hook for this. On those under warranty, Toyota insisted that 1 quart of oil per 1200 miles was 'normal consumption' for the engine.

The other problem is that the engine has a head gasket problem where three head bolts can (some say 'will') pull out of the block - they're in the middle of the head, closest to the firewall. Toyota's done an extended warranty on the issue (program identification: ZE7) but they refuse to take any pre-emptive action and you'll have to wait for your engine to fail or for signs of a blown headgasket to appear before you can bring it in for warranty coverage. This 2004 is too old to be covered under ZE7 as it was issued in 2015 but it is a known issue on that engine even so. Toyota only went back 10 years on ZE7.

While these issues can be dealt with (and replacement engines for the RAV4 are cheap), I certainly wouldn't place that as my first choice. The VQ in the Pathfinder has no such history of spitting up head bolts; when they found some VQs burning that much oil Nissan replaced them.
 
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Fusion and Optima are significantly overpriced, especially considering the fact that they're in Rustland. In places where that's not an issue, they're still overpriced.

Cases in point:
https://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/ctd/d/2007-ford-fusion/6373059985.html
https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/d/2007-ford-fusion/6331691808.html
https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/d/2008-kia-optimadrive/6368938117.html

That last one? It's a DEALER. And it's $1200 cheaper.

The XG is eXtra Garbage. They didn't hold up well. On top of that, the Sigma V6 3.5L is NOT related to the current and recent past excellent V6s Hyundai's been using. The 3.5L version of the Sigma was only in the US from 01-06 and then Hyundai killed it off as soon as they finished development of the excellent Lambda V6. The Sigma is an orphan engine that Hyundai would rather forget it ever made. Run away from that thing.

Of that list, still Pathfinder then RAV4. The Pathfinder is just a better design and has better running gear than the RAV4; it's also sturdier and is a proper RWD in 2WD mode - plus it has a multispeed locking transfer case and is significantly more powerful. The RAV4 is a a tall Corolla wagon with 'sometimes' AWD.

- - - Updated - - -



Yup, going straight for the beige again...

Amusingly... per the Wikipedia page on the XA20:


- - - Updated - - -

More significantly, you are apparently unaware of the two big nasty problems with the 2.4L 2AZ-FE. First problem - these engines can suddenly decide to burn oil (defective piston ring design) at a rate fast enough to exhaust the crankcase between oil changes. There is a TSB on it (#0094-11) but Toyota refuses to recall the motor or fix the problem at their expense. Owners are left on the hook for this. On those under warranty, Toyota insisted that 1 quart of oil per 1200 miles was 'normal consumption' for the engine.

The other problem is that the engine has a head gasket problem where three head bolts can (some say 'will') pull out of the block - they're in the middle of the head, closest to the firewall. Toyota's done an extended warranty on the issue (program identification: ZE7) but they refuse to take any pre-emptive action and you'll have to wait for your engine to fail or for signs of a blown headgasket to appear before you can bring it in for warranty coverage. This 2004 is too old to be covered under ZE7 as it was issued in 2015 but it is a known issue on that engine even so. Toyota only went back 10 years on ZE7.

While these issues can be dealt with (and replacement engines for the RAV4 are cheap), I certainly wouldn't place that as my first choice. The VQ in the Pathfinder has no such history of spitting up head bolts; when they found some VQs burning that much oil Nissan replaced them.

The possibility of a 1k timing belt service soured me on the Hyundai already so we're good there.

Honestly while something non beige would be nice, thevictor has a point. If I get something that actually lasts a while (IE: longer than 3 or 4 years), I'll be able to augment it with a "cooler" car down the road. IDGAF about the ratio of men to women driving something, so that stat's lost on me tbh.

Will do, that's still the order I'm looking in but I'm going to be particularly choosy about the Pathfinder when it comes to the rust repair and I won't be afraid to drop it for the Rav 4.

RE prices: Sure, other ones are cheaper in other states but add in the cost to get there & to drive the car back, the cost to get it PA inspected, the vacation days I'd need to use to drive said car back, and the value equation shrinks considerably. I know a lot of people are like "Negotiate the fuck out of car prices or you're fucking yourself over" and i get that. I'm one who's more likely to just pay the asking price or slightly below if it's already in my price range. It's a sucker move, I'm aware, but it makes things easier.
 
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The Pathfinder is just a better design and has better running gear than the RAV4; it's also sturdier and is a proper RWD in 2WD mode - plus it has a multispeed locking transfer case and is significantly more powerful. The RAV4 is a a tall Corolla wagon with 'sometimes' AWD.

For Rick's (and my own) use case I see very little reason for having selectable RWD/4WD, especially if the manual transfer case means you can't use it on dry roads without breaking something. I prefer my AWD car to be AWD at all times without having to engage it manually first.


My parents had a RAV4 of that generation, as well as one from the generation after that. Neither gave them any problems whatsoever and I can assure you both generations performed very well in all kinds of winter weather. I could never tell when the part-time system kicked in - all four wheels had power when needed, simple as that.

I didn't like driving them much though - they were way too nervous on the road. They never really settled down. The 2.0 four-cylinder was also way too weak and high-revving. If you like revs that's fine, but it's not really what I'm looking for in an SUV. I have no idea what engine the USDM version comes with though... although I know there's a V6 available.

The rear door is also huge and unwieldy, and hinged towards the sidewalk in LHD countries.

Edit: Skip to 0:37 in this video for a 'sometimes' AWD system that doesn't work, and to 1:30 for one that does. Both these vehicles are FWD with similar on-demand AWD.

[video=youtube;jkiv-bWbLIo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkiv-bWbLIo[/video]
 
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US RAV4s in this generation did not have a V6 option - in fact you didn't get any engine options at all for the XA20 in the US. You got a 2.0L 1AZ-FE gasoline I4 from MY2001-2003 or you got the 2.4L 2AZ-FE gas I4 from MY 2004-2005.

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Honestly while something non beige would be nice, thevictor has a point. If I get something that actually lasts a while (IE: longer than 3 or 4 years), I'll be able to augment it with a "cooler" car down the road.

Except all the beige you're looking at is *bad*. Remember, Toyota Rot was a thing and the year range you are looking in was the height of the era.

IDGAF about the ratio of men to women driving something, so that stat's lost on me tbh.

No, but it does provide a possible explanation for why I've seen so many RAV4s poorly parked over the years and why so many of them have signs of owners who have poor parking skills.

Will do, that's still the order I'm looking in but I'm going to be particularly choosy about the Pathfinder when it comes to the rust repair and I won't be afraid to drop it for the Rav 4.

If it's a car you're buying with a loan, you should be 'particularly choosy' about it period.

RE prices: Sure, other ones are cheaper in other states but add in the cost to get there & to drive the car back, the cost to get it PA inspected, the vacation days I'd need to use to drive said car back, and the value equation shrinks considerably. I know a lot of people are like "Negotiate the fuck out of car prices or you're fucking yourself over" and i get that. I'm one who's more likely to just pay the asking price or slightly below if it's already in my price range. It's a sucker move, I'm aware, but it makes things easier.

Man, it's a shame you don't have access to, say, a forum full of people all over the US that could go look at cars in non-Rustland areas for you. Also a shame that there's no services in major cities that could do the same thing if you didn't want to use a forum member. It's also a shame there are no shipment services in the US that could economically and safely transport vehicles from one place to another, obviating the need to drive it yourself.

Oh, wait... You do, there is, and there is. :p

In fact, I'm waiting to get a call to go over and pick up a vehicle a friend is having shipped in from out of state. Supposed to get here tomorrow or Monday, and he's out of town until late Sunday night, so I'm covering for him.
 
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There's a surprisingly large circle on the map where you could fly out and drive a car home same-day :p

Your budget is high enough that I really think it is doable to get something closer to 50k miles than 150k. This changes so much in terms of projected reliability for the next few years. My first car was a '96 Chrysler Sebring which is about as terrible as it gets to an enthusiast, but I bought it with 50k miles, drove it to 80k and had very few issues (alternator, rear struts). And that was with a $3k budget (car was 10 years old at the time).

I am also of the opinion, in general, that when buying cheap cars an individual model can surpass its reputation, and vice versa. The car's current condition is just as important as its general reputation. So definitely get out there and drive some cars that look good on paper, you might be surprised. You can generally tell pretty easily when a car has been well kept.
 
Man, it's a shame you don't have access to, say, a forum full of people all over the US that could go look at cars in non-Rustland areas for you. Also a shame that there's no services in major cities that could do the same thing if you didn't want to use a forum member. It's also a shame there are no shipment services in the US that could economically and safely transport vehicles from one place to another, obviating the need to drive it yourself.

Oh, wait... You do, there is, and there is. :p

In fact, I'm waiting to get a call to go over and pick up a vehicle a friend is having shipped in from out of state. Supposed to get here tomorrow or Monday, and he's out of town until late Sunday night, so I'm covering for him.

There's a surprisingly large circle on the map where you could fly out and drive a car home same-day :p

Your budget is high enough that I really think it is doable to get something closer to 50k miles than 150k. This changes so much in terms of projected reliability for the next few years. My first car was a '96 Chrysler Sebring which is about as terrible as it gets to an enthusiast, but I bought it with 50k miles, drove it to 80k and had very few issues (alternator, rear struts). And that was with a $3k budget (car was 10 years old at the time).

I am also of the opinion, in general, that when buying cheap cars an individual model can surpass its reputation, and vice versa. The car's current condition is just as important as its general reputation. So definitely get out there and drive some cars that look good on paper, you might be surprised. You can generally tell pretty easily when a car has been well kept.

Excellent points. Let's see how this week goes. I'll re-visit the possibility of sucking it up and going out of the rust belt to look.

EDIT: there's a 2013 Soul with nice options and low mileage for 5k down there... https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/d/soll-kia/6374868261.html

Thoughts?
 
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If the guy had a full listing in Spanish rather than a few words, maybe I?d trust it more. Pictures are taken in a hotel parking lot...
 
If the guy had a full listing in Spanish rather than a few words, maybe I?d trust it more. Pictures are taken in a hotel parking lot...

His entire ad text *is* in Spanish. The sections about fuel, drive type, engine, title status, etc, are from check list or pop up menus on the CL ad creation page and those are only in English.
 
There?s seven words! In no way is that telling me anything about the car.
 
rickhamilton620's sorta big red box! - 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport

There?s seven words! In no way is that telling me anything about the car.

This is the same site that turns up even shorter ads on a regular basis. Der Stig and I have a contest called "Most Useless Car Ad" where we peruse CL looking for said useless ad. We usually turn up at least one ad that says some variant of 'Car for sale' as its entire ad text *and* title. No picture either. If we don't see one of those, we often find ones that aren't much better. "1997 car for sale" and a picture so dark and blurry you can't make out anything that resembles a car, that sort of thing.
 
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