Before fitting tires, I wanted to protect my new wheels. Posambique recommended Nanolex Si3D sealant and generously wasted one friday evening teaching me how to apply it. This sealant should make cleaning white wheels effortless, as I can use pretty heavy heavy chemicals with it.
No matter how good the sealant is, it can't protect the wheels from places where you can't apply it. And steelies are prone to rust. Whilst I'm not going to drive the 106 Rallye over the winter, I wanted to make sure the wheels stay in good condition. I took the full nicjasno approach: first the wheels were warmed up (in a sauna, greetings from Finland), then warm cavity oil was applied with injection needle to all seams of the wheels. Most of the stuff will be washed off, but parts of it should stop wheels from rusting.
Naturally wheels were cleaned after the process.
Then I remembered the cracked fuel tank. I'm pretty sure the tank had been damaged when the car was moved with forklift at the junkyard where I bought it. I spotted the crack at some early point of my ownership and lazily patched it up with soft tape. Then I forgot it.
You would think a simple tape isn't a good way to fix up a leaking fuel tank. You would be wrong. Now almost 2,5 years later when the car is nearing proper roadworthiness I remembered this ghetto fix. I ripped the tape off and the tank started to leak immediately. In other words, the tape had kept the tank sealed!
I used the fuel pump to empty it quicker: basically just putting a fuel line straight into a container.
After the tank was empty I dropped it. Fasteners where easy to remove (has this car never been driven in winter?), but fuel line connectors caused slight problems. The crack itself is maybe 10mm long, so I guess it can be easily repaired. If not, plastic replacement tanks for 106 should be easy to find.
Finishing touches, the car is pretty much ready. Today I installed the fuel tank. The crack was easily welded and it should be as good as new. Before fitting the tank I obviously cleaned the surroundings and sprayed plenty of rust protection oil in true nicjasno style. I'm really impressed with the body, it's almost 100 % rust free, and few spots are simple surface rust. It shouldn't be a problem now when the car is seeing summer driving only, but I've been planning on some proper anti rust treatment.
My brand new original steelies finally found their way under the car! I'll restore those Compomotive MOs later in the spring and try to find suitable tires for them.
I had to tighten the timing belt a bit, and whilst at it I decided to install new engine mounts I had found. To be honest, I had totally forgotten I had bought these parts, but good thing I had: old mounts were completely shot. The mount on the picture should be just one piece of rubber!
Rear wheel arch has minimal liner, but the condition of the body is pretty much perfect. I applied generous layer of anti rust oil just to be safe.
I've taken the Rallye to MOT only once. The biggest complaint was caused by cheap Biltema oil filter (there were more serious issues too, but the guy felt the Rallye deserves better ? I can't disagree!). Now that is fixed, new OEM spec Purflux filter found its way into the engine bay. Naturally the oil was changed too.
To-do list starts to be pretty short:
- one clamp for fuel breather hose
- replace few cracked fuel hoses in the engine bay
- center caps for steelies
- oem mud flaps to front arches
- film protection to rear arches
- new positive battery connector (original is cracked)
- new oil temperature sensor
- new oil level sensor
Not all of those are that important, but it's the list of all things I've to do before the car is pretty much as new. Not bad!
Almost there! Alignment is now checked, so I could take the car for a proper drive! It's still missing the center caps, mud flaps etc, but I had to give it a try.
First of all, the 1.3 liter engine dominates the car. It's a really peppy motor. Now when all sensors are working and cam belt timing is properly set, it offers usable torque from 2000 rpm onwards, even if it truly comes alive at high revs.
It has instant response to throttle inputs. At around 5 000 rpms the engine note gets a wonderful metallic rasp, quite similar to public's 405 Mi16. Just a bit later, at 5 400 rpms it reaches its torque peak (!). I guess the whole torque curve is almost flat, making it really easy to drive. Full power comes at 7200 rpms, just before the rev limiter. In other words, it feels like it could easily go way beyond 8000 rpms. Really peppy motor!
As my example has never been thrashed, the very close ratio gearbox feels like new. I replaced most of the linkage, so it almost pulls the next gear in. Good thing it does, to get most out of the engine you need to keep the revs up.
106 Rallye is easy car to drive slowly, probably quite similar to more common 106 XSi or 205 XS models. At least compared to public's 205, it's way more stiffer laterally. It doesn't roll too much, and it seems to use both axles more effectively instead of mostly leaning on the outside front wheel.
It doesn't feel as playful at low speeds, you really have to drive the entertainment out of the car. Just like the engine, you have to bring the chassis to it's limits before it starts to shine.
I'm super happy how the arch extensions turned out. Perfect paint match, and pretty perfect finish too.
Center caps are still on the way. Public found promising used ones on eBay, let's hope they fit Rallye wheels too. Posambique recommended Nanolex Si3D coating for the wheels, and oh boy does it work. I got rid of all the brake dust with a simple foam wash, but I guess just a simple water would've done the same effect. Can't wait to apply this stuff to my 406 Coupe! Rallye is doing summer car duties only, so at the moment simple Bilthamber Finis Wax is enough.
Interior still needs cleaning, and rubber mats could use some detailing. It's quite a difference to it's original state, when everything was covered in thick layer of mold.
Engine bay is nearing nicjasno spec. I cleaned most of the parts around the engine with Bilthamber Surfex HD, it gives really nice glossy look to plastics. Intake manifold could use a soda blasting to get rid of the oxidation, but at the moment it's fine.
Just to remind you, here is the starting point (on the right):