The Ctrl + V - Thread

Your headlamp will work as designed only if it is correctly aimed.
Improperly aimed headlamps are dangerous, ineffective and illegal.
The following procedures will assure correct aim of your headlamp for
maximum seeing without illegal and dangerous glare. Be sure to use
the correct procedure for the specific headlamp model you are
installing.
Although an optical beamsetter is the most accurate way to aim
lamps, these are not yet as common in North America as they are
elsewhere in the world. However, more and more optical beamsetters
are placed in service all the time, so check around before deciding
nobody near you has one. Foglamps, driving lamps, and
visually-aimable headlamps do not require a mechanical aimer or other
machine in order to achieve at least passably-correct visual aim. All
ECE (E-code) headlamps are visually aimable, and many newer US
(DOT) headlamps can be accurately aimed visually. First, you must
determine if your headlamps can accurately be aimed visually. If you
have ECE (E-code, European-spec) headlamps, you can aim them
visually. If your US DOT headlamp lenses are marked VOL, VO or VOR,
they can be aimed visually. If your US DOT headlamps are NOT
marked VOL, VO or VOR, STOP, they cannot be correctly aimed visually
and will require the use of a mechanical aiming device.
To prepare for aiming, the car should have at least 1/2 tank of fuel,
weight in the trunk equal to the most frequently carried load (this may
be a full trunk, or it may be an empty one, or anything in between),
and weight in the driver's seat equivalent to the most frequent driver.
All of the tires should be checked when cold to make sure they're at
the correct inflation pressure. Jounce each corner of the car firmly
(grasp the bumper and push down several times rhythmically) to
ensure that the suspension is settled into a normal position.
Find a location that has a vertical wall and enough level ground for the
length of the vehicle plus 25 feet (7.5 m). The wall will be used as an
aiming screen. You'll need to make marks on the wall, so if it is a wall
you're not allowed to deface, use tape. Measure a distance of 25 feet
(7.5 m) straight back from the wall, and mark this position on the
floor or ground. Align front of the vehicle with this floor mark, and
then bring the vehicle straight forward, right up to the wall. Make a
mark "V" on the wall directly in front of the center of the vehicle. Good
references for the center point include such things as hood ornaments,
grille badges and license plate brackets.
Next, make a mark "C" on the wall directly in front of the axis of each
headlamp. The "axis" is often marked with a dot, cross, bulb type
designation or name brand, but if not, it is directly in front of the bulb.
There is one axis for each lamp, so a vehicle with four lights will have
four axes and a vehicle with two lights will have two.
Now, move the vehicle straight back from the wall until the
headlamps are aligned with the floor mark. Walk to the wall and make
additional marks: Extend the "V" mark with a vertical line downward at
least six inches. Next, connect all of the "C" marks with a horizontal
line. Then, measure downward from each "C" mark that represents the
center of a low-beam or high/low-beam headlamp and place a mark
"B" per the following tables.
ECE (European E-code) headlamps
Headlamp axis height Distance to measure
downward
Up to 34.5" (80cm) 3"
35" to 39" (89-99cm) 4
39.5" or higher (100cm) 4.5"
US DOT headlamps marked VOL
Any axis height 2.1"
US DOT headlamps marked VOR or VO
Do not measure downward -
Connect these two newly-measured points with a horizontal line
we'll call "B-B". After you've done all of this, your wall will be
marked like this for a system of two high/low beam headlamps:
Or like this for a system of two low- or low/high beam plus two
high-beam lamps:
NOTE The visual aim procedure for US DOT headlamps marked VOR or
VO does not require the lower horizontal line. Simply connect your +C
marks with a horizontal line.
Now draw a vertical line through through the center of each +C point.
Do the same with the oV point. These lines make it easier to see the
reference marks when you are standing 25 feet away, adjusting the
aiming screws on the car. You now have an accurate plot on the wall
of the height and separation of the headlamps (but ONLY if your car is
level, the ground is level and the wall is vertical!). Note that the "b-b",
"C" and "V" designations are for purposes of clarity in this descriptive
article. It is not necessary to draw the letters on the wall--just plot the
points. Of course, you may use the letters in your aiming procedure if
it will help you.
VERTICAL AIMING
The low beam pattern of a visually-aimable headlamp has a distinct
horizontal cutoff. Below the cutoff is bright light. Above the cutoff is
dark. The aim is determined by measuring and adjusting the height of
this cutoff relative to the reference marks you plotted on the wall. For
European-spec ECE and US DOT VOL headlamps, the cutoff is at the
top of the left half of the beam pattern, and it should be lined-up
exactly with the b-b line. For US DOT VOR headlamps, the cutoff is
the squared-off top edge of the 'hot spot' on the right side of the
beam pattern, and should be lined-up exactly with the horizontal line
that connects your +C points.
HORIZONTAL AIMING
These instructions are applicable only to European ECE low beams,
because US DOT VOL and VOR headlamps cannot be visually aimed
horizontally, and in many cases, cannot be aimed horizontally by any
means at all, because no provision for horizontal aim adjustment is
provided. [This is because US regulators believe there is no way to
define a visual cue, such as a kink in the cutoff, that would allow
accurate left-to-right placement of a headlamp beam and that cars will
not get in fender-benders that will knock the headlamps out of
horizontal alignment. For what it's worth, the Europeans have been
successfully aiming their headlamps vertically AND horizontally since
1955. -ed.]
European ECE headlamps have a "kink" or "elbow" at the top of the
center of the beam pattern, where the cutoff bends upwards. Adjust
each headlamp so that the kink lines up (left-to-right) with the +C
mark for whichever headlamp you're working on. The tolerance here is
+/- 2 inches of point (c). Slight leftward aim (-1") increases seeing
distance down the road, but excessive leftward aim increases glare to
oncoming traffic.
Here is what a correctly aimed set of European ECE or US DOT VOL
headlamps looks like:
And here is what a correctly aimed set of US DOT VOR headlamps
looks like:
After adjusting a high/low beam headlamp in the low beam mode, do
not attempt to readjust it in high beam mode. All high/low beam
headlamps are meant to be adjusted on the low beam setting
only--the high beam adjustment is correct when the low beam
adjustment is correct. If you are experiencing a problem where setting
the low beams correctly places the high beams too high, but setting
the high beams correctly places the low beams too low, you are
dealing with a poorly-designed headlamp.
DRIVING LAMPS, HIGH-BEAM-ONLY LAMPS IN 4-LAMP SYSTEMS
These instructions apply to ECE high beam headlamps, US DOT high
beam headlamps marked "VO", and all driving lamps. These must be
adjusted so that the bright, center "hot spot" of the beam is straight
ahead of the lamp in both the vertical and horizontal planes. Use the
intersection of the horizontal and vertical lines at point +C for each
headlamp as "cross-hair sights" to center the high beam hot spot, like
this:
Make sure to work on one lamp at a time. It is best to disconnect the
power to the headlamp you are not working on, so light from the other
lamp's beam pattern doesn't mislead your eyes. Also be sure to
disconnect or cover the adjacent high/low beam lamp when you are
aiming its high-beam-only neighbour.
FOG LAMPS
Fog lamps are aimed using a procedure very similar to that used for
European-spec ECE and US DOT VOL low beam headlamps, but the
vertical drop is different. Follow the vehicle-preparation and
wall-marking instructions given above for ECE/VOL low beam
headlamps, substituting "foglamp" for "headlamp", but with the
following changes:
If the fog lamps are mounted below the bumper, your b-b line should
be 2" below the fog lamp axis height.
If the fog lamps are mounted above the bumper, your b-b line should
be 4" below the fog lamp axis height.
Fog lamps produce a wide, bar-shaped beam of light. Horizontal aim is
much less critical than it is with headlamps. The fog lamps should be
pointed straight ahead, not leftward or rightward.
 
Strength of Connection ElementsOuter Fillet Weld Shear= π/2 X Nozzle O.D. X Weld Leg X 7,693= (π/2)(10.750)(0.250)(7693) = 32,476lb Inner Fillet Weld Shear= π/2 X Nozzle O.D. X Weld Leg X 7,693= (π/2)(10.750)(0.250)(7693) = 32,476lb Nozzle Wall Shear= π/2 X Mean Nozzle O.D. X t X 11,970= (π/2)(10.750)(0.365)(11970)= 73,776lbCheck Strength of Paths1-1 = 32,476 + 73,776 = 106,252 lb.2-2 = 32,476 + 32,476 = 64,952 lb. All paths are stronger than required.
 
Prost264 said:
Your headlamp will work as designed only if it is correctly aimed.
Improperly aimed headlamps are dangerous, ineffective and illegal.
The following procedures will assure correct aim of your headlamp for
maximum seeing without illegal and dangerous glare. Be sure to use
the correct procedure for the specific headlamp model you are
installing.
Click to expand...


See, I wish people paid more attention to that in this country... Every night I get sooo much glare from other cars headlights.

What's on my clipboard?

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=50563


Hmmm.... may have been doing a bit of window shopping earlier... :)
 
death in circle, jugglerm pumpkin man, crooked house, butterflys, tnt man, men on steps, woves, bound man, kids in circle, big baby


Once again don't ask.
 
peter3hg2 said:
death in circle, jugglerm pumpkin man, crooked house, butterflys, tnt man, men on steps, woves, bound man, kids in circle, big baby


Once again don't ask.
Click to expand...

I know what that is :mrgreen: and I also know the answers
 
mgkdk said:
peter3hg2 said:
death in circle, jugglerm pumpkin man, crooked house, butterflys, tnt man, men on steps, woves, bound man, kids in circle, big baby


Once again don't ask.
Click to expand...

I know what that is :mrgreen: and I also know the answers
Click to expand...
The M&mM's game.
 
debounce
 
57565191;omni56ka

8dig ICQ UIN and password =)
 
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3 - 7 Bang 11/5/2006 307 Reviews 7.50
3 - 8 Children and Art 11/12/2006 308 Reviews 0.00
3 - 9 Beautiful Girls 11/19/2006


Guess :).
 
ppliances. "American customers were buying vases to drink from because the glasses were too small," recalls recalls Goran Carstedt, the former head of Ikea North America, who helped engineer a turnaround. Parts
 
Finally finished my university application.
Any suggestions are fully appreciated.
I am applying to study law as I would like to pursue a career in the field. I find law very interesting and am eager to learn about the workings of law at University.
I have been interested in law for many years after helping out at a Solicitors office in Stockport. This was also the place were I did my work experience in Year 6 which helped me decide that law was a subject I would like to study in the future. To this end, I took up a Law A-level at college. This has been an interesting subject for me as it has taught me more about the workings of the law and has allowed me to visit the Crown Court in Manchester. In the first year of college I took work experience at another Solicitors office in Stockport. At this practice I took a more active part in the legal proceedings and sat in various meetings with clients, after having read the case notes. I also had the opportunity to sit in the Magistrates Courts to watch various cases.
Outside of college I play an active part in my local Scout Group. I am the Chairman for my Explorer Scout Unit. This role involves me communicating with various people to organise activities for the 12 members of our Group to participate in. I have to make sure all members of the group know what is happening each week so I must organise a Program which is compiled at a meeting that I chair every three months. The role also involves me helping to maintain the Groups budget and deciding where the money will be sent. I must also make sure the subscription fees are collected for the year and the correct money is paid to the various bodies we are part of.
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Within the Scout Group I also help with the Beavers, Cubs and Scouts. This mainly involves helping on weekend camps. Here I am expected to take responsibility for a small group and to help the children participate in various activities such as rock climbing, air rifle shooting and archery. I sometimes also help with the groups in their meetings which happen on a weekday evening.
I am a keen mountain biker and rock climber which I have done for many years. I usually go rock climbing with a group of around four friends either indoors or outdoors. When we climb outdoors we have to complete quite a lot of planning as we must decide which rock faces are suitable in the weather conditions and also which equipment we need to take. When we arrive at the rock face, very careful preparation must take place as the consequences of an accident could be very severe. Therefore I have to make sure all the equipment is set up properly and that all the equipment is in good condition. We also must communicate effectively with each other so everyone knows were the other people are and what they are doing.
When I go mountain biking there is also some preparation work involved. Within the group we must make sure we have all the tools we may possibly need and also ensure somebody knows where we are intending to go in case an accident takes place. I must also ensure my bike is well maintained and is fit for the conditions we are intending to ride in.
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